TL-3 lamp current at 7.4V?

[ScottB]

I'm all set on LEDS and want to try my first incan mod :thumbsup:

I'm considering a mini-mag mod using a StreamLight® TL-3 Bulb and AuroraLite hotwire kit from Lighthound with 2x14500 (protected).

Does anyone know the current draw of this lamp at around 7.4V?

I'm trying to decide whether a tailcap switch will handle the current.

I guess I would be trying a Terralux TCS-1 switch and treating it with deoxit and progold internally and nylogel 760 on the threads.

I'm more concerned about any hazard this application might present than about brightness but they go hand in hand. Don't want a lossy switch to create a bunch of waste heat.

If I can get this running well I'll eventually get a Litho H1499.

thx,
Scott

 

[ScottB]

Found an answer a couple of threads over.

Cell configuration: 2x14500

Bulb Option:
TL-3 Bulb: 9.5W, 130 - 77 lumen in 24 minutes

Body:
2AA MiniMag with Auroralite upgrade package +++

So I'm looking at about 1.3A @ 7.4V (with rested batteries). That doesn't sound excessive for a tailcap switch.

 

[BSBG]

Good to see you starting small with your first hotwire. I started with a Mag 85 and now am obsessed with the 2C size.

Have fun, it only gets more expensive as the lumens increase :thumbsup:

 

[ScottB]

Oh, I'm obsessed with C-cells too but want to start with "small" current and capacity while I learn the gotchas.

My impression is that the incan mod designs need to really be sorted out correctly particularly using multi-cell-lion setups or some very bad things can happen

I'll definitely work my way up in energy once I become comfortable with these amperage levels. Plus I've always appreciated a good sleeper and a 9W stock looking mini-mag sure brings a grin to my face.

 

[mdocod]

in the sticky on top of incandescent you'll see a thread called "threads of interest"
within that list, there is a link to a thread "popular bulbs current draw; etc..."

according to that thread, the TL-3 lamp has been tested to draw about 1.25A.



I find it interesting that people are always talking about "rested" batteries when talking about li-ion cells... The only time "rested" has any effect on the situation, is if you are dealing with heavily used cells, or heated cells. A healthy li-ion cells will come off the charger only slightly warmer than it went on, and sill hold that state of charge with minimal voltage loss for weeks and months.... Resting a li-ion cell is almost pointless.... only difference would be that the cell is given a chance to cool down a bit, which may slightly reduce it's performance under a load, but we're not talking a major difference in my understanding. "Resting" cells is common with nickel chemistry cells, because they do come off the charger about 10% higher than they settle to within about a day.

 

[ScottB]

Oh, so if a 14500 lion comes off the charger at 4.15V it holds that voltage for quite a long time? Ok I think I understand. Thanks

 

[TigerhawkT3]

From my TL-3 review:

"This light (with a 1499, remember) pulls 1.77A at 8.8V on primaries, for 15.576W of power consumption. On Li-Ions, it pulls 1.9A at 8.3V, for 15.77W of power consumption."

 

[BoomerSooner]

TigerhawkT3,

Nice review on the TL-3. Have you tried the H1499 at all? If so, how much difference did you see?

 

[TigerhawkT3]

TigerhawkT3,

Nice review on the TL-3. Have you tried the H1499 at all? If so, how much difference did you see?

Thanks. You'd probably only be able to tell the difference between the regular and halogen versions in a side-by-side comparison with same-state batteries. If you really want a jump in brightness, go to Mag85/11/etc. or, better yet, HID.