Triple xp-g build questions

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tacosauce

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Sep 13, 2010
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Hi guys! :wave:
First post!

I am planning to build a bombproof simple bike light, and trying to figure out all the details starting from a limited knowledge base has been fun! :duh2: I have already done tons of reading, and come up with the following components:

-Triple cree from Luxrc 332mc or 332mcn (need help deciding which module)
Connected to a homebuilt heatsink host with nonadhesive thermal paste. I have the raw materials for the planned host already. I just need to figure out how to bore a 20mm hole in 3/16" aluminum.

-20mm Clear Narrow Triple Lens (16deg. FWHM) for L33 Light
Or
20mm Frosted Medium Triple Lens (26deg. FWHM) for L33 Light

-Need to pick a remote switch (planning on using the standby mode built into the firmware, so only a momentary switch needed)

-Need a water resistant battery connector

-2 or 4 18650s in a 7.4v configuration (is a controller board necessary, or is it better to use individually protected cells?) (I read the Panasonic 18650s are one of the best to use)
Or
an RC battery pack (will I blow the light with an RC 9.6v NiCad pack?)
Plastidip battery pack

-Is there a battery indicator light that I can add to this setup?

I'd appreciate any input with regards to components, build techniques, places to purchase parts,...

If this build goes well, I plan on building another half dozen or so for my family and friends.

Thanks!
 
Hi guys! :wave:
First post!

I am planning to build a bombproof simple bike light, and trying to figure out all the details starting from a limited knowledge base has been fun! :duh2: I have already done tons of reading, and come up with the following components:

-Triple cree from Luxrc 332mc or 332mcn (need help deciding which module)
Connected to a homebuilt heatsink host with nonadhesive thermal paste. I have the raw materials for the planned host already. I just need to figure out how to bore a 20mm hole in 3/16" aluminum.

-20mm Clear Narrow Triple Lens (16deg. FWHM) for L33 Light
Or
20mm Frosted Medium Triple Lens (26deg. FWHM) for L33 Light

-Need to pick a remote switch (planning on using the standby mode built into the firmware, so only a momentary switch needed)

-Need a water resistant battery connector

-2 or 4 18650s in a 7.4v configuration (is a controller board necessary, or is it better to use individually protected cells?) (I read the Panasonic 18650s are one of the best to use)
Or
an RC battery pack (will I blow the light with an RC 9.6v NiCad pack?)
Plastidip battery pack

-Is there a battery indicator light that I can add to this setup?

I'd appreciate any input with regards to components, build techniques, places to purchase parts,...

If this build goes well, I plan on building another half dozen or so for my family and friends.

Thanks!

You might just want to pick up a waterproof 7.4V lithium battery pack, charger and switch from Batteryspace.com.
http://www.batteryspace.com/li-ion18650battery74v2400mah177whwith6prewireandwaterproofcoating.aspx

or
http://www.batteryspace.com/li-ion1...0mah3256whtrail-techfemaleplugchinacells.aspx

and
http://www.batteryspace.com/compone...hledindicatorandtrailtechmaleandopenwire.aspx

Not all that expensive if you're in the US- but shipping and customs are killer to other countries.

From what I hear, even the narrow beam will be plenty wide with the Lux RC XP-G emitters. I haven't seen one, just done some couch surfing.

I'm interested in hearing how this goes. I think it would be a great little light, and might work well with a headband as a running-type headlamp too.

Got any pics of the host?
I was thinking that you could use the cap and lens off a DX light possibly, if you could make a back-plug with heat sink. Not sure of the exact inner dimensions, but it looks close:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20334
 
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I've just made a small light with the 1400-lumens module. I use the narrow optics. Beamshot:
5020620984_6300f0a1b6.jpg

Personally I wouldn't want more spill but I ride mostly on paved roads.
 
Thanks for the input! :twothumbs

The host is basically going to be a cpu powersupply aluminum heatsink with aluminum tubing for the housing and a flat piece of aluminum to hold the lens. I am using a square heatsink back, tube body, and square front with Chicago screws to hold the sandwich together.

let me see if I can attach a picture...
 
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Nice and simple.. If you want to save cutting a 19mm hole in the aluminium plate that hold the optics and driver board onto the heat sink get yourself a square of clear polycarbonate, then you only need to drill 4 small holes plus the polycarbonate will protect your optic. The holes you drilled through your heat sink can be the guides for drilling the polycarbonate but just make sure you have a piece of wood behind the polycarbonate when drilling as this will stop it from cracking as the drill breaks through the other side.

You could get an off cut of polycarbonate from your local plastic bender or off ebay.

brad
 
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Nice and simple.. If you want to save cutting a 19mm hole in the aluminium plate that hold the optics and driver board onto the heat sink get yourself a square of clear polycarbonate, then you only need to drill 4 small holes plus the polycarbonate will protect your optic. The holes you drilled through your heat sink can be the guides for drilling the polycarbonate but just make sure you have a piece of wood behind the polycarbonate when drilling as this will stop it from cracking as the drill breaks through the other side.

You could get an off cut of polycarbonate from your local plastic bender or off ebay.

brad

Good idea. Would I get alot of light coming back through the back of the poly?
 
Good idea. Would I get alot of light coming back through the back of the poly?

I imagine not. It would have to refract at or near the inner edge of the optic where it contacts the polycarbonate and bouce back to emerge backwards. You could tape or paint it the backside if it does. More likely is a small amount of light bouncing between the front and back to emerge at the edges. Won't be a lot, but may warrant tape or black paint on the topside to protedt your night vision The sides will be nice side markers for being seen if strong enough. The bottom might light the front wheel. Easy to test before final assembly so it is easier to fix. Good idea to check.
 

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