trying to solve my rechargeable battery confusion

[ragingspeed]

With my beloved collection of flashflights I was almost going to do a big mistake ... did order from ebay and just received very cheap unprotected and unbranded rechargeable CR123 batteries and after reading some threads here I immediately discarded them. Now am trying to get a GOOD charger and GOOD batteries ... but now am so mixed up. Charger I ordered the Pila IBC (which I shouldn't go wrong with it no?) ... and for batteries? Should I go for AW? They're really mentioned as very good here. Fine will get AW batteries, but still I'm feeling that I'm doing something wrong. Will the Pila charger charge all types of batteries? Following are the lights that I'll be buying rechargeables for them ...

Own ...

Surefire E2D LED (2x CR123A)
Fenix PD30 (2x CR123A)
Novatac EDC 120P (1x CR123A)
Nitecore Extreme Nex (1x CR123A)
Ra Clicky 140C (1x CR123A)
Olight M20 Warrior Premium (2x CR123A)
Jetbeam Jet-III M (2x CR123A)

Planning to buy ...

Lummi Raw Ti (1x 14250)
Lummi Wee Ti (1x 10180)
Raidfire Spear (2x CR123A)

For example ... considering the Lummi ... in an AW's thread Pila won't charge them ... then should I thrust the nano charger for them?

Will I be needing any spacers/anything else?

Any other suggestions would be really considered as very helpful for me, as now I'm really lost!

 

[Oddjob]

Probably a good idea to not use rechargeables in the Surefire and Fenix lights. The Novatac and Clicky are good to go. They may work in the other lights but again you should check the specs to see what the respective maximum voltages are for each light.
AW cells are good cells. They are certainly the most recommended cells around here and with good reason. I recommend getting protected cells.
The Pila is a good charger because it terminates the charge at a safe level. You will need spacers for the RCR123's which AW sells as well.
The nano charger should be fine for the smaller cells. Just don't leave the nano charger plugged in overnight. Unplug it as soon as the light turns green which IIRC is a few hours. It would be a good idea to buy a digital multimetre especially if you plan to use batteries in series where the voltages add up. Matching the voltages in a multicell light is important for safe operation. It could be very dangerous if you put a discharged cell with freshly charged cell. The multimetre is also good to determine the state of a cell's discharge i.e.4.2 volts=100%, 4.1 volts=90%, 4.0 volts=80%, 3.9 volts=60%, 3.8 volts=40%, 3.7 volts=20% 3.6 volts=almost fully discharged. Even though the batteries say 3.7 volts on them, RCR123's come off the charger at around 4.15 to 4.2 volts. It is better for the cells to recharge them frequently and you do not have to wait until they are discharged to charge them. Just top them up frequently depending on how often you use the lights of course.

 

[Nake]

I don't know if the Nano chargers are all the same. I bought one made for 16340 size to use on my RCR2 batteries and saw that it charged at 0.45A. I believe that is too much for the smaller batteries.

 

[ragingspeed]

Thanks alot Oddjob! So am I getting it right ... safest way for all flashlights' health is to use non-rechargeable batteries? Actually I'm not a very frequent flashlight user ... therefore would I be better off with non-rechargeables? Any brand in mind? (apart from Surefire which don't come any cheap at all)

Also regarding your mention of checking their maximum voltage ... can you be clearer? How can I get such information? Example have tried the Olight now and couldn't find anything ... neither on their included manual nor in their site.

Thanks again

 

[Nake]

The two Lummis you plan on buying, are primaries made in that size?

 

[ragingspeed]

Nake, that's my current search in fact ... but I think not eh. What makes me think so is the fact that Lummi give you a rechargeable battery plus the Nano charger. Don't know whether I'm doing a correct one plus one

 

[Nake]

I'm not up on what circuitry the Lummi use, but I'm guessing direct drive with a resister, and if they're made to use 4V a 3V battery would be very dim.

I'm sure if you get the Nano that is sold with the Lummi it will be alright.

When I bought the one I speak of, there was a picture with the output specs, but I didn't look at it. In AWs battery thread he says Nano is OK, so I just went by that.

 

[Oddjob]

Thanks alot Oddjob! So am I getting it right ... safest way for all flashlights' health is to use non-rechargeable batteries? Actually I'm not a very frequent flashlight user ... therefore would I be better off with non-rechargeables? Any brand in mind? (apart from Surefire which don't come any cheap at all)

Also regarding your mention of checking their maximum voltage ... can you be clearer? How can I get such information? Example have tried the Olight now and couldn't find anything ... neither on their included manual nor in their site.

Thanks again

You're welcome. In terms of flashlight health it all depends on the input voltages. If a single cell light says it has an input voltage of 1.5 volts-4.5 volts then you know you can use an RCR123 because it's maximum voltage is around 4.2volts. I read where someone called Surefire and asked what the maximum voltage for a certain 2 cell light was and he was told 6.6 volts which is what 2 primaries would be (primaries although labeled 3 volts are actually a little higher around 3.2 volts.)
Using lithium primaries (non rechargeables) is probably safer if you are not the type to fiddle with charging and recharging and if you do not use your lights frequently. Battery Station is a good dealer where you can get CR123's for $1.50 to $2.00 per cell. It is still important to match cells in 2 cell lights. With primaries, voltage is not an accurate way to detemine a cell's state of discharge. Something like the ZTS battery tester that test them under load would give you a better idea. I have accidentally gotten a couple of cells mixed up and having the tester allowed me to find out which cell was used and which was fresh. If you just always put two fresh quality cells in a light you will probably be OK but accidents can and do happen. IIRC the venting with flame accidents I have read about were either with multicell lights or poor quality cells.
The O-Light is safe to use 2 RCR123's according to the description on 4sevens siteas well as on the picture on the O-light site. Often in the specs are written the voltage range such as on the Ra Clicky specs at the bottom of the page.

 

[Zeruel]

Nake, that's my current search in fact ... but I think not eh.

I beg to differ . Google and there they are. For examples here and here

 

[ragingspeed]

Good Good info from you all ... thanks very much eh! :thumbsup:
Ok then my task is to first check each and every flashlight I have regarding it's maximum voltage it can take ... also if it's quoted that they can take "2x RCR123" it means that they accept Rechargeables why didn't I notice that ?! Ok I got alot of homework to do now :laughing: will also search for a good battery tester too ... that I wished for a long time too (apart from a food voltmeter too) ... donnow ... we'll see

 

[Nake]

I beg to differ . Google and there they are. For examples here and here

I had read that those batteries don't work well with flashlights because of their low discharge rate. I found one link, I think there were more.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163463

 

[Zeruel]

I had read that those batteries don't work well with flashlights because of their low discharge rate. I found one link, I think there were more.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163463

There you go, see, they exist :naughty:
I would probably get some to try it on my Raw NS.

 

[old4570]

Just know what your input voltage range is ,

Some LED's are 4.7v 18650
Most will handle 2x3.6 or 3.7 , but the voltage on rechargeable batteries can hit 4.2 for the 3.6 or 3.7 batteries and 3.6 or 3.7 for the 3 Volt rechargeable's

So if your worried , buy some 3v RCR123A's

So if you have a 8v Cree LED those 3.7 RCR123A's can top out at 8.4v , Im not sure if 8.4 is going to kill your LED ?

But using 2xCr123A bat's in a 18650 flash light just might .
Problem is , dep on where you buy your flashy , it might not be the same spec as a light from another source .

Ive been looking at Ultrafire C1 lights and apparently you can get them for 18650 + 2xCR123A or ONLY single 18650 , so I imagine that some may have got a 18650 and jammed CR123A's even though the torch is the same model , you may be restricted to 4.7V .

As for battery quality ?? , Im new to CR123A's , but I deff plan on testing things when my High output flashy's arrive .

Have not ordered any protected cells yet .

My Romisen draws 680mah with some cheap cells , and they seem to handle it just fine .