Ultimate LED Thrower Challenge

Vikas Sontakke

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I have ran the el cheapo Romisen F4 light ($14) at 2A for over 5 minute at a stretch few times. It gets quite hot but had no other ill effects. I don't have any way of measuring actual lumens out of it. This light is in the process of being RMA'd because its regulator has gone direct drive.

My point:- if such a cheap body can keep Cree alive at 2A, a good heat sink should have no trouble pushing 2A through it. Mr. Bulk started his career here by creating LGI which was putting out 1A through original 1W Luxeon and this was few years ago. I still have that LGI and it is still as bright as it was then.

A P4 Cree mounted on a star is $5 shipped. If it fries, big deal. But it doesn't as long as it is decently heat sinked and as long as it DOES NOT TURN ANGRY BLUE.

- Vikas
 
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AzN1337c0d3r

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I'm suspecting he'll want to keep and use the flashlight after he wins the contest, so it could be important. If you just want to impress someone with $100 you can take them out to dinner instead.

He's having a contest. You don't win contests by taking people to dinner.

I'm claiming that the XR-E driven at 2A will last longer than he wants to use it, since it does not fail catastrophically even when run for 30 minutes. The onus is on you to disprove my claim.

1) Lack of specifics. Heatsink, actual current measurements, etc.
If it runs it's fine

It would not be surprising at all if 4 AA cells he used, cannot push 2.5A or even 2A through an emitter for over 30 minutes. A typical NiMH cell fully charged and draining at this rate would have pretty bad voltage depression from this high drain rate.

The capacity of an AA cell and high rate vs capacity just don't make AA cells suitable for a controlled current test. If he had a current-controlled supply we could be more sure it was 2.5A. Instead with the direct drive he used, it is most likely is it started out at 2.5A and when down in current quite a lot over time. Actually it is certain that either the cells started out putting far more than 2.5A through the LED, or that it was nowhere near 2.5A through the LED shortly after the measurement was taken.

There's a little tool I like to call the inequality. According to this Energizer datasheet, at a discharge rate of 1C (2.5 A), a typical Energizer 2500 mAH NiMH rechargable can sustain at least 1.2V for 30 minutes... multiply that by 4 batteries gives a total 4.8V... referring back to evan's post, we see that Vf at 2A is only around 4V. 4 AA batteries are definitely capable of direct driving an LED for 30 minutes at over 2.5A, it's probably closer to 3.

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nh15-2500.pdf

2) Lack of runtime. 30 minutes isn't very long, and does not account for wear on the PCB due to thermal cycling. Repetitive heating and cooling (just testing this design before there is any contest with a halogen spotlight) can be a problem separate from whether it survives one run for 30 minutes (which as mentioned in #1, we can be sure didn't happen at continuous 2.5A).

I have already disproven the latter part of this paragraph, as for the first half. This is a contest, again, it only has to last for the duration of the contest, which is measured in minutes of run times. If it lasts 50,000 hours, then great, we have a bonus, but if it doesn't, it doesn't subtract from it's original purpose as a tool to outthrow a halogen spotlight. We do not care about how fast about the LED dies because OP is in a throw contest with a halogen spotlight, not a throw contest over 50,000 hour with a halogen spotlight (not to mention halogen spotlights don't last 50,000 hours). The OP did not specify that he wanted in the feature set that the flashlight has to last 50,000 hours.

It's just not an 8W LED. Other manufacturers and parts are rated for more current when they are designed capable of withstanding the heat, and with these other higher-wattage rated LED they don't think to themselves that they shouldn't rate it that high because of an end-use that would require a large heatsink or bigger batteries. They could just include an extension of a graph for lifespan vs temp or current if the design were sound very far beyond 1A.

Again, the market demand for XR-Es driven at 2A is not very high. The reduced lifetime would be prohibitively expensive. Multi-die emitters are more cost effective. Also, if Cree included graphs of their XR-Es at 2A, it would overlap the multi-die emitters and be competing with itself.
 
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J_C

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He's having a contest. You don't win contests by taking people to dinner.

I feel you missed the point, that it doesn't have to be a short-lived, overheating result. That's why specs exist, so we can go from there building not just some contest winner but something with lasting value.

My contrast was one of winning some contest by building a flashlight that isn't viable for (literally) 20 years or more, versus the effect of wowing someone for a moment. If the wow factor was all that was important, the $100 dinner wins. If long lasting wow were more important, build a flashlight to be superior for all the virtues of it being LED-based since brightness is always the compromise but offset by other virtues. Trying to pump as much current as possible through an LED regardless of efficiency or lifespan is clearly a misuse of LEDs, is like negating everything we hold useful about them.

I'm claiming that the XR-E driven at 2A will last longer than he wants to use it, since it does not fail catastrophically even when run for 30 minutes. The onus is on you to disprove my claim.

Again, we have no evidence that it:

1) Runs at over 2A for 30 minutes. It will require a constant current supply or constant measurement to determine this, certainly not 4 X AA. If 4 X AA can power it for 2A at the end of 30 minutes, they will be exceeding 2.5A at the beginning. Science is really important here, a glance at a graph is not the same thing as considering all variables.

2) We have no evidence that when running at excessive current, the LED will not be dropping not only in lumen output but permanently aging, prematurely. Let's suppose when the LED is brand new, you can momentarily get 350 lumens out of it. Is that really winning a contest if you need 1650/350 = ~ 5 LEDs to do it, but then if you kept trying to use that flashlight then it drops lower and lower in output when the halogen version still continues outputting full light? That's a bit like cheating, nobody builds a flashlight that can't meet real-world uses.

If it runs it's fine

No, if it runs long enough to be cost-effective against a halogen, remains reasonable efficient, remains reasonable usable. Otherwise it's just an arbitrary concept, not worthwhile as a light. It's a shame you can't trust the very makers of an LED, their own specs in a highly competitive market. They might be a bit conservative, but not by 200%.

There's a little tool I like to call the inequality. According to this Energizer datasheet, at a discharge rate of 1C (2.5 A), a typical Energizer 2500 mAH NiMH rechargable can sustain at least 1.2V for 30 minutes...

At 100% full charge, when brand new, at optimal temperature, etc.

Now let's get back to reality. The fact is, when draining a NiMH AA at this rate, one of two things has to be true. Either it started at significantly higher than 2.5A, or it ended up significantly lower than 2.5A after 30 minutes.

Look again at the datasheet and see that for the first (1/3rd or so) of that 30 minutes, voltage ramps down significantly. One of two things is true, either the LED was ran at far above 2.5A (which would fry it), or it was not far above that figure and the rest of the time it was at lower current.

That's why a constant current source has to be used to make a claim about current:time.

multiply that by 4 batteries gives a total 4.8V... referring back to evan's post, we see that Vf at 2A is only around 4V. 4 AA batteries are definitely capable of direct driving an LED for 30 minutes at over 2.5A, it's probably closer to 3.

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nh15-2500.pdf

While this seems simple enough, it directly contradicts the claim of 2.5A. IF
1.2V/cell had been maintained, Evan's data shows the current would be higher than 2.5A.

I would like to pause for a moment and remaind you that anyone can build a circuit that fries itself because it wasn't properly designed. There is no trick to that. Recognizing what works for a flashlight is a different matter, and if spending up to $100 as the original post suggested is a budget, trying to squeeze every last lumen out of fewer LEDs just doesn't make sense.

I have already disproven the latter part of this paragraph, as for the first half. This is a contest, again, it only has to last for the duration of the contest, which is measured in minutes of run times. If it lasts 50,000 hours, then great, we have a bonus, but if it doesn't, it doesn't subtract from it's original purpose as a tool to outthrow a halogen spotlight. We do not care about how fast about the LED dies because OP is in a throw contest with a halogen spotlight, not a throw contest over 50,000 hour with a halogen spotlight (not to mention halogen spotlights don't last 50,000 hours). The OP did not specify that he wanted in the feature set that the flashlight has to last 50,000 hours.

I don't feel a term of the contest was that it's ok if it's not usable later, unless there was a monetary bet. WHY would you insist it has to be a wasteful destructive design? It's not as though there isn't another way, this is not a hard thing to do. It is just a bad design to push parts to the point of frying for no reason.

Again, the market demand for XR-Es driven at 2A is not very high.

Again, if all they had to do was state "use a larger heatsink", then they would have done so, as they had already stipulated the importance of heatsinking at lower current.

The reduced lifetime would be prohibitively expensive. Multi-die emitters are more cost effective. Also, if Cree included graphs of their XR-Es at 2A, it would overlap the multi-die emitters and be competing with itself.

They don't provide higher current graphs because it's not designed to withstand that. Take any other semiconductor as an example, it is clear the manufacturer rates for max current and that in that scenario suitable heatsinking is required. Datasheets exist for a reason, and that reason is to counter people who have not done the extensive testing the manufacturer does. THEY know their product and the whole point of the datasheet was to provide this info. If everyone were as cavalier as you seem, we'd have the same situation with LED datasheets as we have with generic power supplies or computer speakers rated for 400W PMPO but cost only $8.

An LED is not an end onto itself. If you can't appreciate their virtues and take advantage of them without losing efficiency and lifespan, then there was no point. A one-time 30 minute run or 5 minutes at a time is not proof of a good result, anyone who bought a flashlight that could only do that much would consider it defective.

The main point is that there is no good reason to sacrifice life or efficiency just to use fewer LEDs, as it is certainly impossible that the contest be won with only one or two, or actually as the math suggests, even 4 cannot win such a contest. Therefore, the idea of using only 2 or 3 LEDs is gone, it has to be a custom flashlight and in that context, no reasonable implementation that tries to push each in output when it can be smaller, lighter, and more efficient merely using more LEDs.

I think we need to get more info from the thread originator about whether he'd rather throw away a $100 flashlight just to use fewer LEDs, or if it'd be nice if it was usable for many years instead.
 

djblank87

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I think we need to get more info from the thread originator about whether he'd rather throw away a $100 flashlight just to use fewer LEDs, or if it'd be nice if it was usable for many years instead.


That is a good point, we do need the OP to address whether or not this is a throw away light or one that will be around for a while.

Regardless, the information that has been posted is more than enough for someone to draw a conclusion on what to do. So balls in the OP's court.
 

Fallingwater

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Get your friend to understand the basics of light distribution (spill, hot spot etc) and he might just come to the logical conclusion that a super-concentrated spotlight is visually impressive, but useless for anything but spotting intruders or signalling to ships.

If that doesn't work, I advise you give up. LEDs are great for general use, but they're still beaten by high power incandescents for spotlight work and there's little you can do about it. You could rig up an inefficient whomper of a flashlight with a dozen emitters and a runtime quantifiable in minutes that might beat your friend's incandescent, but I hardly think the expense in money and time would be worth it.
 

AzN1337c0d3r

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I feel you missed the point, that it doesn't have to be a short-lived, overheating result. That's why specs exist, so we can go from there building not just some contest winner but something with lasting value.

My contrast was one of winning some contest by building a flashlight that isn't viable for (literally) 20 years or more, versus the effect of wowing someone for a moment. If the wow factor was all that was important, the $100 dinner wins. If long lasting wow were more important, build a flashlight to be superior for all the virtues of it being LED-based since brightness is always the compromise but offset by other virtues. Trying to pump as much current as possible through an LED regardless of efficiency or lifespan is clearly a misuse of LEDs, is like negating everything we hold useful about them.

This is what the OP seems to suggest when he asked it in the LED forum. He wanted the ultimate LED in terms of throw and to achieve that goal, maximum light output would be the start of the design.

Again, we have no evidence that it:

1) Runs at over 2A for 30 minutes. It will require a constant current supply or constant measurement to determine this, certainly not 4 X AA. If 4 X AA can power it for 2A at the end of 30 minutes, they will be exceeding 2.5A at the beginning. Science is really important here, a glance at a graph is not the same thing as considering all variables.

Induction will tell you that if you can run a load at more than 2A for 30 minutes, then it will also be capable of running said load at exactly 2A for more than 30 minutes as well, (given reasonably efficient regulation). The point was to prove that the batteries are capable of supplying that power for that amount of time, which you claimed 4xAA NiMH are incapable of.

2) We have no evidence that when running at excessive current, the LED will not be dropping not only in lumen output but permanently aging, prematurely. Let's suppose when the LED is brand new, you can momentarily get 350 lumens out of it. Is that really winning a contest if you need 1650/350 = ~ 5 LEDs to do it, but then if you kept trying to use that flashlight then it drops lower and lower in output when the halogen version still continues outputting full light? That's a bit like cheating, nobody builds a flashlight that can't meet real-world uses.

It's not cheating, that's like saying drag racing cars are cheating because it doesn't have a real-world use.

No, if it runs long enough to be cost-effective against a halogen, remains reasonable efficient, remains reasonable usable. Otherwise it's just an arbitrary concept, not worthwhile as a light. It's a shame you can't trust the very makers of an LED, their own specs in a highly competitive market. They might be a bit conservative, but not by 200%.

I claim that 2A is not so much current that the LED will be reach the 80% light output mark before an equivalent halogen bulb will blow.

I'd also like to point out an analogous example of a product in a competitive market which is conservative to 100%. The Intel Core 2 Duo. There have been many reports of E6320 which is stock 1.83 GHz, doing over 4 GHz on air cooling. That is a >100% overclock. In fact, I myself own a sample doing 3.7 GHz.

At 100% full charge, when brand new, at optimal temperature, etc.

Are you really going to claim that these so called factors are going to skew the capacity so much that it can't do 2A over 30 minutes when under ideal conditions it can do 2.5 for over 30?

Now let's get back to reality. The fact is, when draining a NiMH AA at this rate, one of two things has to be true. Either it started at significantly higher than 2.5A, or it ended up significantly lower than 2.5A after 30 minutes.

Which is why we use current regulators.


Look again at the datasheet and see that for the first (1/3rd or so) of that 30 minutes, voltage ramps down significantly. One of two things is true, either the LED was ran at far above 2.5A (which would fry it), or it was not far above that figure and the rest of the time it was at lower current.

That's why a constant current source has to be used to make a claim about current:time.
Again, if you feed that voltage/current characteristic into a current regulator, the regulator would have enough input power to be able to make the output drive 2A for more than 30 minutes.


While this seems simple enough, it directly contradicts the claim of 2.5A. IF
1.2V/cell had been maintained, Evan's data shows the current would be higher than 2.5A.

The idea is that you use the current regulator to avoid blowing up the LED by limiting the output power. A current regulator is really a power regulator, which means that IF you can direct drive a load for 30 minutes, and the output of the current regulator maintains that power at lower than if you were direct driving the load, THEN the total runtime would be longer.


I would like to pause for a moment and remaind you that anyone can build a circuit that fries itself because it wasn't properly designed. There is no trick to that. Recognizing what works for a flashlight is a different matter, and if spending up to $100 as the original post suggested is a budget, trying to squeeze every last lumen out of fewer LEDs just doesn't make sense.

But is it really cheaper to use more LEDs compared to having a bigger heatsink?

I don't feel a term of the contest was that it's ok if it's not usable later, unless there was a monetary bet. WHY would you insist it has to be a wasteful destructive design? It's not as though there isn't another way, this is not a hard thing to do. It is just a bad design to push parts to the point of frying for no reason.

Nobody insisted that it would have to be a destructive design. Plus I'm claiming driving an XR-E at 2A ISN'T a destructive design. I'm still waiting for you to provide evidence to the contrary.

Again, if all they had to do was state "use a larger heatsink", then they would have done so, as they had already stipulated the importance of heatsinking at lower current.

They don't provide higher current graphs because it's not designed to withstand that. Take any other semiconductor as an example, it is clear the manufacturer rates for max current and that in that scenario suitable heatsinking is required. Datasheets exist for a reason, and that reason is to counter people who have not done the extensive testing the manufacturer does. THEY know their product and the whole point of the datasheet was to provide this info. If everyone were as cavalier as you seem, we'd have the same situation with LED datasheets as we have with generic power supplies or computer speakers rated for 400W PMPO but cost only $8.

Ah, but we do.

An LED is not an end onto itself. If you can't appreciate their virtues and take advantage of them without losing efficiency and lifespan, then there was no point. A one-time 30 minute run or 5 minutes at a time is not proof of a good result, anyone who bought a flashlight that could only do that much would consider it defective.

They would only consider it defective if the packaging led them to believe otherwise. If the packaging said clearly, CAN ONLY RUN 5 MINUTES AT A TIME, then it is their fault for not reading correctly.

The main point is that there is no good reason to sacrifice life or efficiency just to use fewer LEDs, as it is certainly impossible that the contest be won with only one or two, or actually as the math suggests, even 4 cannot win such a contest. Therefore, the idea of using only 2 or 3 LEDs is gone, it has to be a custom flashlight and in that context, no reasonable implementation that tries to push each in output when it can be smaller, lighter, and more efficient merely using more LEDs.

I claim it can be won with 2 or 3. All you seem to do is complain about not having accurate measurements. You have not provided a single piece of evidence that shows XR-Es can't be driven 2A for 30 minutes while maintaining a relatively stable light output, nor have you provided evidence that 4xAA NiMH can't drive an XR-E at 2A.

I think we need to get more info from the thread originator about whether he'd rather throw away a $100 flashlight just to use fewer LEDs, or if it'd be nice if it was usable for many years instead.
Again, I claim that he won't need to throw it away. Please provide evidence to the contrary.
 

J_C

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This is what the OP seems to suggest when he asked it in the LED forum. He wanted the ultimate LED in terms of throw and to achieve that goal, maximum light output would be the start of the design.

WRONG. The design has a target which does not require excessive current through the fewest LEDS possible. We already know from the math that it's not as though he could use only 1 to 3 LEDs in a small diameter flashlight w/compound lens, even at 2A ea. that won't produce enough outout so it's still going to have to be a custom flashlight either way. You are suggesting a waste of power, a waste of LED lifespan, and it won't even be smaller because of the excessively large heatsink necessary, and that large heatsink much harder to find instead of a more modest size.

Induction will tell you that if you can run a load at more than 2A for 30 minutes, then it will also be capable of running said load at exactly 2A for more than 30 minutes as well, (given reasonably efficient regulation). The point was to prove that the batteries are capable of supplying that power for that amount of time, which you claimed 4xAA NiMH are incapable of.

We were discussing a specific post where it was clearly stated the batteries were directly driving the LED. I clearly explained why a single current claim is insufficient and you want to conveniently ignore small battery realities. I'm sorry but you're just trying to argue instead of doing anything constructive so let's just see what the thread originator has to add, to qualify his needs before wasting any more time.

I'd also like to point out an analogous example of a product in a competitive market which is conservative to 100%. The Intel Core 2 Duo. There have been many reports of E6320 which is stock 1.83 GHz, doing over 4 GHz on air cooling. That is a >100% overclock. In fact, I myself own a sample doing 3.7 GHz.

It is in no way analogous, unless you're also saying it would be OK to run one at extremely high temp (equivalent to over 120C). You essentially want to conveniently ignore the heat problem clearly stated several times, and ignore that there is no special rule that this light has to use only a couple LEDs. What you suggest is just bad engineering period.

Are you really going to claim that these so called factors are going to skew the capacity so much that it can't do 2A over 30 minutes when under ideal conditions it can do 2.5 for over 30?

I'm going to claim that given your way we'd have senselessly wasteful flashlights that crap out for no good reason. IF the goal were instead to get as much light out of a single LED flashlight as possible for a short while (so the heatsink and flashlight body wasn't extremely hot yet), it might be a good idea, it would then be more reasonable to overdrive that. This project has different requirements and there is no useful gain in extremely overdriving LEDs because there is no useful result. It's like the exact opposite of a good design to meet the goal.

The original goal is not hard to meet without extreme measures. What you're suggesting is like taking a race car that can easily beat the rest by virtue of superior design, then ignoring that and redlining it till the engine blows for no good reason... it would've won without doing that.
 
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AzN1337c0d3r

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WRONG. The design has a target which does not require excessive current through the fewest LEDS possible. We already know from the math that it's not as though he could use only 1 to 3 LEDs in a small diameter flashlight w/compound lens, even at 2A ea. that won't produce enough outout so it's still going to have to be a custom flashlight either way. You are suggesting a waste of power, a waste of4 LED lifespan, and it won't even be smaller because of the excessively large heatsink necessary, and that large heatsink much harder to find instead of a more modest size.

It's not excessive. You need to prove that it IS excessive. Because there's prior evidence to the contrary.

We were discussing a specific post where it was clearly stated the batteries were directly driving the LED. I clearly explained why a single current claim is insufficient and you want to conveniently ignore small battery realities. I'm sorry but you're just trying to argue instead of doing anything constructive so let's just see what the thread originator has to add, to qualify his needs before wasting any more time.

No you didn't clearly explain. All you said was that blah blah blah non-ideal conditions blah blah blah. There's nothing in your post that would refute that it could happen given the conditions described. I, on the other hand, have proven inductively, that if you can direct drive a load at 2.5 A for 30 minutes, then you are certainly going to be able to regulatory drive that load at 2A for 30 minutes. Sounds like you're the one who is argumentative to me.

It is in no way analogous, unless you're also saying it would be OK to run one at extremely high temp (equivalent to over 120C). You essentially want to conveniently ignore the heat problem clearly stated several times, and ignore that there is no special rule that this light has to use only a couple LEDs. What you suggest is just bad engineering period.

Guess what? Semiconductor cores do operate at over 120C. The heat problem is NOT a problem, because as I've already clearly pointed out, by linking to a post of another member who has already tried it. All you want to do is complain that you don't know the specifics of his measurements. You want to know each and every single parameter to the utmost accuracy. Why not ask about the air pressure too? It's irrelevant and won't change the conclusion. Bad engineering is needing irrelevant information to come to a conclusion when you could do without that information.

I'm going to claim that given your way we'd have senselessly wasteful flashlights that crap out for no good reason. IF the goal were instead to get as much light out of a single LED flashlight as possible for a short while (so the heatsink and flashlight body wasn't extremely hot yet), it might be a good idea, it would then be more reasonable to overdrive that. This project has different requirements and there is no useful gain in extremely overdriving LEDs because there is no useful result. It's like the exact opposite of a good design to meet the goal.

Hmm this sounds familiar. I think I've already claimed that driving an XR-E at 2A will not make the flashlight "crap out" for no good reason. It's not extreme to drive an XR-E to 2A, and it will provide a useful result, namely, the OP will have to use less LEDs.

The original goal is not hard to meet without extreme measures. What you're suggesting is like taking a race car that can easily beat the rest by virtue of superior design, then ignoring that and redlining it till the engine blows for no good reason... it would've won without doing that.

Show me this superior design then.

I'm saying the superior design will be to take an XR-Es at 2A powered by 4xAA NiMH.

You're assuming that the emitter is going to crap out at 2A, which I claim it's not. The onus is on you to prove me wrong, since I've already provided an example of an XR-E @ 2A running for over 30 minutes.
 
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TorchBoy

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saabluster

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You are suggesting a waste of power, a waste of LED lifespan, and it won't even be smaller because of the excessively large heatsink necessary, and that large heatsink much harder to find instead of a more modest size.

I'm going to claim that given your way we'd have senselessly wasteful flashlights that crap out for no good reason.

I'm not trying to fan the flames...But you do make a good point that an led running at these levels would need a very large heatsink. Preferably one with water cooling. Its not as hard to come by as you might think. My flashlights have about 185lbs of water cooled heatsink. The main way these high-super high current flashlights get rid of their heat is thru the user. There is of course an obvious downside. You need to hold the flashlight for this to work. You will not find too many manufacturers (although there are some) who are willing to run there lights at a level where they have to trust the user to follow this strict rule. And its perfectly understandable. But as enthusiasts we know how far we can push the envelope and what it takes to do it. Its not by reading the data sheets of the led manufacturer that we know the limits. Its by actual real world testing.

There is a wealth of information from enthusiasts here who have pressed the limits of whats possible and been so kind as to let the rest of us know how by posting their knowledge and experience. When I joined I spent most of my time reading trying to take in as much information as I possibly could. I haven't been posting in earnest until recently. Go back and look at the posts of Newbie, jtr1962 and yes even though we've had our little spat evan9162 plus many more. All the details that you seem to desire so much are all there. It just takes a little digging.
 

liveforphysics

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I've got a well sinked Q4 with an aspherical lens. I've pushed it to 1500mA. It throws the image of the square LED die pretty clearly for a few hundred yards. I've never made it into a flashlight, but it was only about $30 in parts. I got the lens from surplusshed.

I think it may have a chance at beating your friends spotlight, but it's going to be difficult.

Best Wishes
-Luke
 

saabluster

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I just beat 1M candlepower spotlight with a $14.60 led light and little bit of "bad luck" (busted regulator in that light)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2233313&postcount=103

Check it out

- Vikas


Even though it looks like the led light in your pictures can compete as far as throw with what appears to be a spot of similar size it cannot. What's important is that the beam is collimated(light rays coming out are parallel) as much as possible. The Romisen's spot has expanded to 15-20 times its original size. That tells us its rays are not collimated all that well. The spot's spot:crackup:is still about the same size as when it left the flashlight=very good collimation.
Still thank you for posting the shots and the link. Its cool to see the tiny led almost keeping up with that huge light for total output.
 

SteveDavis

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I think that a point earlier about throw vs. total lumen output is very valid. With a tighter beam than your friend's light, you could easily get better on axis intensity. If you're worried about total lumens, though, it's better to go without optics and reduce your losses.

Arrow Electronics, the company I work for, represents Osram and Cree, as well as Avago, CML, Everlight, Harvatek, Lite-On, Stanley, Optek, Unity, and Vishay, plus a host of optic lines, driver lines, and thermal management lines. We have a parametric LED search here. We also have online PDF guides to each of the component types you'd need to make this kind of design possible.

Visit our website and see for yourself.
 

KreAture

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OK. If you really wanna win this you can.

LED torch + 5mw green laserdiode-assembly + button cells for power.
It would throw that point that you should be able to see in binocs over 1 km away. Kind of cheating I know, but you'd win :)
 

Vikas Sontakke

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Even though it looks like the led light in your pictures can compete as far as throw with what appears to be a spot of similar size it cannot. What's important is that the beam is collimated(light rays coming out are parallel) as much as possible. The Romisen's spot has expanded to 15-20 times its original size. That tells us its rays are not collimated all that well. The spot's spot:crackup:is still about the same size as when it left the flashlight=very good collimation.
Still thank you for posting the shots and the link. Its cool to see the tiny led almost keeping up with that huge light for total output.

You are absolutely right. The spotlight had 6 inch head and the LED had about 0.8 inch head. So in the throw, LED will eventually lose if they start with comparable lumen output. I compared the total output by trying to read newspaper while shining the lights at the ceiling. Romisen provided more light than the spotlight.

On the other hand, if somebody were to get a 6 inch reflector around that Romisen, it can beat the spotlight. If you have $100 budget, it would a fun experiment to drive Q5 at obscene current with a good large parabolic reflector.

- Vikas
 

saabluster

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Oct 31, 2006
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Garland Tx
On the other hand, if somebody were to get a 6 inch reflector around that Romisen, it can beat the spotlight. If you have $100 budget, it would a fun experiment to drive Q5 at obscene current with a good large parabolic reflector.

- Vikas
Your probably right about it being able to beat the spot with a large parabolic. Only problem is you would have to find one that was fairly deep to be able to capture any of the crees light output. All the large parabolics I've seen are made for incans.

You've just given me an idea. I think I'll make one that will work with the cree.
 

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