Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA

BigBluefish

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My replacement C3 SS from DX just arrived. Compared to KD's version the differences are pretty much how KFE (thanks! :thumbsup:) describes, except the KD version is much brighter, with bigger hotspot. The DX version seems to be the same brightness as a regular C3. The DX version has bigger gaps but is much smoother to the touch all round.
Just to echo what KFE said: I also wonder if they were made in the same factory ??

Did your replacement from DX have the yellow based, or silver based emitter? I just got one from DX a couple of weeks ago, with the silver base emitter, and it is bright (as in brighter than my RC-A3, and even my RC-G2) and has a wide hotspot.
 

ykb

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The replacement from DX has the silver based emitter, and the KD version has the yellow base.
Just had a look at the heads - the reflectors have different size holes for the emitter. The DX version has a small 'O' gap around the dome, and KD version with no gap.

Edit: Just to confuse things more - the initial SS C3 I bought (which was returned because of chipped lens) from DX when they originally appeared had the yellow based emitter!
 
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gravityz

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i got my o-rings from DX in

i ordered 16mm GITD's to replace the o-ring at the head
this because it does not seal properly.

to my suprise the o-ring was the same size so no help there

i however also ordered 18mm blue GITD o-ring and guess what.

if you install these at the head end it it a tight fit

this is a must have if you want your light to be water resistant

SKU.7319
 

BigBluefish

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ykb: Hmm, this is confusing. I'm very pleased with my DX SS C3. Except for slightly loose head threads, which is almost a non-issue since they were cleaned and lubed, I really like this light. It's very bright, almost as bright, if not equal, it seems to my RC-N3. I know the quality of these from both DX and KD (more so the latter, I seem to be hearing) has been all over the board, but you think they'd have these issues sorted out by now. :(

gravity: thanks for the tip on the blue 18 mm GITD o-rings. I'll order a batch with my next SS C3. Funny, but I can't get into the head or switch on my current one. I may need to get a set of circlip(sp?) pliers or a hemostat to get those things unscrewed.
 

Ty_Bower

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-The DX one has a Cree with a silver base...
-The DX one is a lot brighter, and has a much smoother beam...
-DX, orange o-rings...

The DX C3 has a smooth brushed finish, the threads are a bit rough, but other then that it's a nicely finished light...

That pretty much describes the stainless C3 I just received from DX. I was surprised a single AA powered light could be so bright. I'm really impressed. Beam is surprisingly smooth for a Cree, too. This light is definitely a keeper.

The only negative I can say is that this thing get HOT! Like, hotter than a Surefire L4 hot. I've got a primary lithium cell in it (not a li-ion) and left it running for 10~15 minutes. It kinda surprised me how hot it was when I went to pick it up. Clicked it off and let it cool - no harm done.
 

KFE

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This light is definitely a keeper.

That is sure is...I actually have another one inbound from DX.
I really like the smooth bare steel look one these lights, and the simple clean look is a nice change from all those other 'cheap' looking chinese designs.
 

c8h8r8i8s8

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Mar 23, 2008
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I ordered mine on 3/27 from DX, and it arrived on 4/12. Overall I am very impressed with this light. It is much brighter and much smaller than I expected.

Mine does have the gaps that others are reporting, and they are definitely due to the battery. If there is no battery in the light, I can screw it tight enough to where there are no gaps. It is so small that it fits in my palm, also it is very heavy for it's size, it seems built very well. My light is much whiter than I expected, however the hot spot seems to be slightly off center. Is anyone else experiencing this?

I am overall very pleased with this light, and I'm sure that it will be my new pocket light.
 

Ty_Bower

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Mine does have the gaps that others are reporting, and they are definitely due to the battery. If there is no battery in the light, I can screw it tight enough to where there are no gaps.

Mine is similar. I can't screw the ends down to zero gap with the battery out, but the gaps are definitely much smaller without the battery. I don't really care. It doesn't seem to affect the operation any. I just need to be careful not to crush my NiMH cells.
 

RainerWahnsinn

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Got my second one today from DX. LED with the silver background, exelent finish. When I was doing the first inspection and cleaning, lens-o-ring brokes into dust. I was lucky a GID o-ring from a sample (bought on CPF) fits well. The gap is larger now, but I fit it with a meaty black o-ring.

Nice one mode torch now.

Rainer
 

cpf

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Mar 24, 2008
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Just received the SS C3 I ordered on 30th March from DX. My noob comments :

Definately one of the best looking products I've seen, seems to be very well built too, might last forever ( I wouldn't mind using it forever ! That's why I'm going to stock whatever spares I find. ).

The Eneloop charger I ordered from OnlineShop Hong Kong hasn't arrived yet so I can only use it with regular Duracell alkalines. But still it's the brightest flashlight I've owned. People who see it are amazed that "something so cute can turn into a laser" - very few people know how bright modern LEDs can be.

Gap in the front, bigger gap at the rear, even without inserting the battery. GITD o-rings should cover them, on the way.

Threads need cleaning and lubing. Tomorrow.

Just cleaned/polished the exterior with micro fiber cloth. Wouldn't like to polish it, brushed finish is perfect. Must get a nice leather holster.

One doubt, the beam looks OK - very slight bluish tint, but there seems to be a yellowish streak in the outermost part of the beam for about 20 degrees. Can it be rectified ? Is it due to the emitter being misaligned or something ? Don't have a camera, but image below should give you an idea :

SS UF C3 beam problem

Thanks all, you helped me select a really good FL.
 
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Energie

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Got two C3 yesterday (DX+KD). Both with a greenish spot in the beam.
A closer look on the emitter shows some inclusions, like melted silicone.

C3-1.jpg


C3-2.jpg
 

RainerWahnsinn

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I guess we all need to find somebody who offers a "SS-C3-Kit" with ucl, reflektor, Q5pill, quality circuit and o-rings

I could not resist and my fourth is on the way.
 

bspofford

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I guess we all need to find somebody who offers a "SS-C3-Kit" with ucl, reflektor, Q5pill, quality circuit and o-rings .

The 5-mode Q5 stainless steel C3 at DX is very bright and less expensive than the P4 or Q2 versions + Rex 2.1 upgrade kit. This model has similar issues with Q&A.
 

datiLED

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Received mine from KD yesterday.

-Finish is nice, but there are a few long scratches that may polish out.

-There is a 1mm+ gap at the head and tail. There is no o-ring at the lens (Fenix spare fit perfectly, though).

-The beam is quite bright, and on the warm side. There are a few subtle rings, but the tint is not objectionable. I like it. It is easily as bright as the Rexlight 2.1 uprade.

-The Rexlight module and reflector do not fit. They are too loose, and will not screw in securely. Both rattle slightly even when screwed in as far as possible.

-Overall, this is a nice light for the money, even if it is just used as a host for a future mod.
 

yekim

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I have 2 that I bought from DX in two eperate orders and the first one has a great tint and great brightness, the second one has a greenish tint and is not as bright. Both had lens orings but the first one's oring was bulging out and got removed.

The Led's are slightly different as well. The first one has a silver background, the second one has a yellow background.

I tried to mod the second one but was unable to get the star to come loose from the pill, it seems epoxied or siliconed down and will not budge without risking destruction.

UPDATE:

I managed to get the LED out of my second light. IT took some convincing with a screwdriver, but I broke the silicone (I believe) glued bond and was able to swap in the LED from my uber cheap SKU 2821, which was a flying chunk of garbage with an amazing LED. My C3 has a much nicer and brighter beam, and is even brighter than my first one. The SKU 2821 was purchased mainly to get the last bits of life out of primaries that were run down on my 2xcr123 lights so it losing some lux is no big deal.

I have experimented some with running the P4 c3's on 2aa's, the heads fit on the bodies of my old L2T's and I can't really see much increase in brightness, there is some, but not really enough to muck up the form factor for it.

I had originally bought the second C3 as a gift, but instead I am going to give away my Dexlight. (mainly because the Dex's PWM gives me a headache). If I can find a good driver for the C3 I might hop it up.....
 
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cpf

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Some noob observations :

- Both the clicky pill and LED module were not screwed tightly, actually they were quite loose.

- To replace the switch cover with a GITD one I removed the switch pill and black switch cover. I noticed that the threads in the tail did not extend right to the end. I put back only the switch pill and screwed it as far as it would go. I noticed that the gap between the pill and the tail ( where the switch cover would be ) was much wider than the thickness of a single switch cover. What this means is that with only a switch cover even if you screw the switch pill as far as possible, there will still be a gap. I have put a 18mm o-ring between the switch cover and the tail. This ensures there is no gap between the switch pill and the tail.
That is, looking from the bottom of the FL I have tail, o-ring, switch cover and switch pill in that order. If I haven't made myself clear, the gap between the tail and switch pill is now filled by the switch cover and a o-ring.

- The glass itself was dirty and needed cleaning. The o-ring between the lens and head is very very thin. If you aren't careful you may miss it altogether. 18mm GITD o-rings cannot really be used here. DX has 19mm black ones that may be 1mm thick, they may work. The GITD ones are 1.5mm thick I think.

- The inner edges are very sharp. I cut myself just above the nail of my forefinger when I tried to clean the inside of the head.

- Someone had mentioned that the FL does not work when the tail is screwed down tightly. I too have that problem, but only when the tail is screwed down very hard.

That's it. Very happy with my FL.
 

alfreddajero

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I put in an order when the SS first came up on DX.....love it.......i shortened the front of the barrel so the bezel part wouldnt leave a big gap like it did when i first got it. I also smoothed out the reflector with a hard compound polisher.........the people that i have showed it too like it. I have heard that when you order late in the game that the QC of UF sucks, so im glad that i ordered mine when i did. Please click on the pics for a bigger view.



 

BigBluefish

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I was thinking of ordering another one from DX, but now I'm worried that it won't be the same quality as my first one, which overall, is very nice, and I'm thinking that now, I won't. On my light the head threads were a little loose, but after cleaning and lubing, and a good deal of use, this doesn't seem to be an issue. It has the silver based emitter, is very bright (brighter when compared to an RC-G2 and RC-A3, about the same level of brightness as my RC-N3 on 1 CR123a primaray). For $20 its not that big a deal, but if my next one isn't as nice, I'll be displeased.

I thought the one I had was nice enough. in fact, to give to my Dad for Father's Day, but while looking at a couple of my lights the other day, he said he liked them, but they'd be better if they had a low level as well as a high level. Oh, well. Guess I'll have to get him an LM31 or an L1T v2.0, and keep the SS C3.
 

xihadd

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Nov 23, 2008
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hi, I ordered my C3 from Dx, I also ordered a C2 Pressure Extension switch. Do you think it will fit along well with the C3?

Thanks.
 

richardcpf

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hi, I ordered my C3 from Dx, I also ordered a C2 Pressure Extension switch. Do you think it will fit along well with the C3?

Thanks.


Of course it wont fit, C2 uses 18650/123 cells, C3 uses AA cells.
 
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