Ultrafire W300

[Packhorse]

Havent seen any comments about this light so I though I might get one and try it out.

1st impressions.
Its a well made unit. Bigger than I imagined but then it is a 2 D cell light.
Bezel is stainless steel as stated in specs. Its easy to remove with some rubber sheet for grip. Reflector is smooth. There is several O rings that should seal it up nicely.

It runs on 2 D alkaline or presumably NiCd or NiMh cells so I guess it has a boost driver. I see this as a huge plus since these batteries are easy to come by and if caught out you should be able to find some anywhere.
The beam is has a very tight and intense spot with a bit of spill. I am quite suprised at how small the spot is.

I will post some pics later tonight after I play around with it a little.

 

[whitenoise]

Heh, no doubt you will become king of the W300 mods now as well Packhorse

 

[Mr_Light]

Any idea what Osram LED this uses?

 

[gav6280]

Any links to places its for sale or manufacturers specs etc?

 

[Packhorse]

Its available from DX and KD from $43us.

I will not quote specs because I dont believe them.

But I will say it out throws a P60-R2 0-100% ( max 1 amp?) drop in. The colour is also more neutral, it has a much tighter spot and the size of the side spill is smaller.
This is not to say I think its better, just different.

As for modifing it, well I have a few ideas already.

I quite like the size of the head. It wouldnt be to hard to lathe up a new very short handle for it and turn it into a can light. Or leave it as a hand held and use 2 D Li Ions.
Throw 3 XP-G into it with 18mm reflectors and a KD 3 mode 2.8a driver.

 

[Packhorse]

Any idea what Osram LED this uses?

No idea, perhaps you can ID it from the pic? I'd live to know the specs on it.

 

[gav6280]

Just checked it out and the W300 doesn't really sound all that exciting to me,

Seems to me to be not alot of light for some big batteries.....

 

[Packhorse]

Just checked it out and the W300 doesn't really sound all that exciting to me,

Seems to me to be not alot of light for some big batteries.....

Different strokes for different folks.

To be honest I know what you mean. I probably will not use it as stock, but it is a good candidate for a mod.

Its also more of a real dive light than that ugly MC-E or P7 thing.
This has a 6mm hardened glass lens, no stupid bezel or ridges that are just asking to get caught on line etc.

 

[gcbryan]

Different strokes for different folks.

To be honest I know what you mean. I probably will not use it as stock, but it is a good candidate for a mod.

Its also more of a real dive light than that ugly MC-E or P7 thing.
This has a 6mm hardened glass lens, no stupid bezel or ridges that are just asking to get caught on line etc.

What is a d li-ion battery? I don't see them listed on DX.

Is there any way to put a magnetic switch on a hand held or do you just use Reed switches and carry a magnet in your hand?

If you use modes in a twisty design how does changing modes work...multiple twists?

Thanks.

Just a general thought as well, it's too bad that ugly MC-E/P7 dive light is the only dive light out there that is bright. Why do they keep putting out dive lights with P4 type emitters? It's just as easy to use something bright in them. It's also odd that if they're going to put out a dive light why stay with the twisty design?

 

[Packhorse]

What is a d li-ion battery? I don't see them listed on DX.

Is there any way to put a magnetic switch on a hand held or do you just use Reed switches and carry a magnet in your hand?

If you use modes in a twisty design how does changing modes work...multiple twists?

Thanks.

Just a general thought as well, it's too bad that ugly MC-E/P7 dive light is the only dive light out there that is bright. Why do they keep putting out dive lights with P4 type emitters? It's just as easy to use something bright in them. It's also odd that if they're going to put out a dive light why stay with the twisty design?

Its a standard D sized cell in a Li Ion chemistry.

Yes there are ways to put magnetic switches on hand helds. Thats what that "ugly light" uses ( they really should name it so I dont have to keep calling it that!). Well I guess its not all that ugly. Its just a horrible shape for a dive light.

Switch of multi mode drivers drivers depend on the driver. Most require you tunring the light off then back on quickly to change modes. Turn it off for more than 2 seconds and it turns back on at the last setting.

 

[gcbryan]

If it turns it back on at the last setting then that would be a driver that has memory I guess.

I see that some have that and some don't.

That would make twisting a little better than I'd thought I guess. I like magnetic switches in dive lights better though.

I have the ugly light (and don't have a problem with that name) so I know that magnetic switches can be used on production dive lights.

I was just curious if any parts were available to DIY for a hand held. I haven't seen anything like that yet. I haven't found reed switches online yet either so I guess I've got to look around more.

 

[Goldigger]

Examples of reed switches..should also find them at digikey in the states
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/...)&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=4294957253&Nty=1

 

[Goldigger]

How waterproof is this w300? the desription on deal extreme just says its waterproof.. no depth rating.
Can i drop it in a puddle or can you dive with it?

 

[Packhorse]

The head to body is triple O ring sealed. There is no tail cap. The lens is about 6mm thick and it has an O ring behind the lens that will get compressed more at depth for a better seal. I'd say it should be pretty well sealed. Although I would consider changing out the O rings as mentioned before.

 

[H20doctor]

why bother , too little light and too much work:tired:

 

[Goldigger]

Packhorse..
Please can you tell me what the OD of the reflector is?
Do youthink a mce/ledil iris will fit.. you can get high mah NiMh 10000mah but sod all voltage..
What options are there for drivers? maxflex will work from 2.5volts but thats cutting it fine i think as the D cells will put out 2.4volts..

 

[Packhorse]

why bother , too little light and too much work:tired:

Look dude, after your shameless personal attacks and childish name calling resulting in SUBjohans thread being removed I would really prefer it if you didnt post in any of the threads I start.
If you feel you really have to post could you please at least try and make your posts informative and fact based.

 

[Packhorse]

Packhorse..
Please can you tell me what the OD of the reflector is?
Do youthink a mce/ledil iris will fit.. you can get high mah NiMh 10000mah but sod all voltage..
What options are there for drivers? maxflex will work from 2.5volts but thats cutting it fine i think as the D cells will put out 2.4volts..

OD is 39mm.
The driver is a boost driver so 2 NiMh cells giving a combined nomional voltage of 2.4 volt is fine. You will probably get 5 hours run time from it.

I am currently using 2 D NiCd cells of 5000mah.

But for modding it I think 2 Li Ion is the way to go or maybe 6 AA NiMh.

 

[Linger]

How are you finding the stock reflector? Unless you can scrounge a 50mm m@g aspheric lens. That would be interesting.

The w300 looks like the big brother to the w200, as if it would make a great host for an ssr-50. Is design of the inside similar to the w200? I'm interested in 'heatsink' emitter base plate, as well as bottom of tower where driver /contact pad sits.

I don't want to rely solely on lithium when travelling so these come in:
I'm wondering between a 2nd w200 (seems nice, cheap, easy) a w300, or oxycheq's three abreast triple AA light:
http://www.scubatoys.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=OxyCheq_3_Watt_LED_Backup_Light

Advantage of w300 is high output, optional 6aa. The oxycheq is widest so maybe bigger reflector for bigger emitter. Hopefully both of these have more flexibility for emitters (w200 diameter is tight).

Re: lithium - yeah, that would be stellar, 2x lico D's. Pair it with KD PWM controller and you've got a decent set-up for an ssr-90 (unless the powerpack can sustain 5amp draw, -50 is a better choice)
But D format is so flexible, nihm cells, regular alkaline will even hold up at reasonable rates, and the impecable 6AA format (even quad 8AA if diameter is correct)
Best,
Ryan

 

[gav6280]

How are you finding the stock reflector? Unless you can scrounge a 50mm m@g aspheric lens. That would be interesting.

The w300 looks like the big brother to the w200, as if it would make a great host for an ssr-50. Is design of the inside similar to the w200? I'm interested in 'heatsink' emitter base plate, as well as bottom of tower where driver /contact pad sits.

I don't want to rely solely on lithium when travelling so these come in:
I'm wondering between a 2nd w200 (seems nice, cheap, easy) a w300, or oxycheq's three abreast triple AA light:
http://www.scubatoys.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=OxyCheq_3_Watt_LED_Backup_Light

Advantage of w300 is high output, optional 6aa. The oxycheq is widest so maybe bigger reflector for bigger emitter. Hopefully both of these have more flexibility for emitters (w200 diameter is tight).

Re: lithium - yeah, that would be stellar, 2x lico D's. Pair it with KD PWM controller and you've got a decent set-up for an ssr-90 (unless the powerpack can sustain 5amp draw, -50 is a better choice)
But D format is so flexible, nihm cells, regular alkaline will even hold up at reasonable rates, and the impecable 6AA format (even quad 8AA if diameter is correct)
Best,
Ryan

I have previously herd some not very good things about that oxycheq, there was a mention of quite a few of them constantly flooding. .