Ultrafire wf-1000 DOA

[js-lots]

I just received my ultrafire wf-1000 cree mc-e from dx. Guess what. DOA. Click...a few light taps.....nothing. I don't want to jostle it to much. Batteries are good. Any suggestions. Could it be the clicky? A contact somewhere? Thanks. I have already done a google search to no avail. I am just starting out so my experience is novice. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kramer5150]

remove the tailcap and directly connect the body tube metal with the battery "-" terminal with some bare wire. If it lights up your switch cap is bad. If you get no light then something else besides the switch/cap is questionable.

use a multi meter and check the switch cap for continuity. I had to use needle nose pliers and tighten my switch cap a little. Since then its been fine.

If that doesn't work try cleaning all the contact points and body tube metal with isopropyl alcohol.

You should pursue an RMA with DX. Their Customer Service Express is slow but it does work, upload pics of the defective merchandise, ship it via USPS with confirmation number to the provided address... and follow the remaining procedure. DX came through for me recently when they shipped a wrong item, it took an extra ~20 days though.

 

[js-lots]

thankyou for your response. I tried your suggestion but to no avail. When the battery connected directly to the tubing didnt work I figured the problem to be more serious. I have already contacted dx and am awaiting their response. As you know, they take forever. I am still waiting for a different flashlight from them so I will keep my fingers crossed. Could the problem be caused by the heatsink not making contact with the body? The heatsink does seem a little small in relation to the tube. Will wrapping tin foil around the heatsink help? Thankyou

 

[js-lots]

well, wrapping tinfoil around the heatsink did it. It is now a functioning flashlight. It took a little work, and the metal on these flashlights seem cheap. Especially the threads. The funny thing is it is working, however the tail cap mode seems to be, High, High off. The flashlight is comparatively the same brightness as my mte ssc- p7. More of a hotspot though and not the same amount of spill. Thanks for your suggestions. One last question, can I use something else in replace of the tinfoil to get that conductive seal I require. thanks, Ken

 

[richardcpf]

Use solder instead of foil to make contact.

Mine also came DOA, the switch was too tigh.

 

[js-lots]

Like I said, Im still just in the novice stage. Soldering is not one of my strong points. Should I solder directly to heatsink and then place it in or should I put the sink into tube and solder the sink to the tube. Could I have a major problem by using Aluminum foil. Thanks, ken

 

[js-lots]

On a second note, the flashlight does not seem as bright as my mte ssc-p7 when placed side by side. Also there is no where as near as much flood as my p7. It is probably driven at low rate. could some explain to me how to use the dmm to measure the amps being drawn from the flashlight. (ie- setup, where to place measuring contacts, and settings on the dmm. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, ken

 

[richardcpf]

On a second note, the flashlight does not seem as bright as my mte ssc-p7 when placed side by side. Also there is no where as near as much flood as my p7. It is probably driven at low rate. could some explain to me how to use the dmm to measure the amps being drawn from the flashlight. (ie- setup, where to place measuring contacts, and settings on the dmm. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, ken

1. Set multimeter to 10Amper measurement
2. Remove the tailcap
3. First pin contacts with the - side of the bettery, second pin to the body.

Amperes are measured in serial, voltage in paralell.

If your flashlight is the same as mine, it should draw 1.5A from 8.2V. But this is not important since we dont know the efficiency of the driver. It may draw twice as much as other P7 flashlights but the current delivered to the emitter is what matters.

 

[kaimaikid]

Amperes are measured in serial, voltage in paralell.

Errrr isn't it the other way round - Amps in paralell and volts in series???

otherwise you could burn out you amp meter :tinfoil:

 

[Jarl]

Errrr isn't it the other way round - Amps in paralell and volts in series???

Nope. If you're measuring amps in a circuit, you put the ameter in series, and if measuring voltage, put the voltmeter in parallel.

When you're adding battery capacities, volts add in series and amp hours add in parallel though.

 

[js-lots]

1. Set multimeter to 10Amper measurement
2. Remove the tailcap
3. First pin contacts with the - side of the bettery, second pin to the body.

Amperes are measured in serial, voltage in paralell.

If your flashlight is the same as mine, it should draw 1.5A from 8.2V. But this is not important since we dont know the efficiency of the driver. It may draw twice as much as other P7 flashlights but the current delivered to the emitter is what matters.

Looks like Im gonna have to get a better dmm. Mine doesnt have a 10 amper plug on it. It seems pretty basic. The other question is should I put some sort of thermal paste between the heat sink and the body of the flashlight to get more conductivity. thanks, Ken

 

[js-lots]

I looked on the dx website and it appears the ultrafire is drawing 1800ma on high and the mte is drawing 2800ma on high. That would explain the difference in brightness.

 

[js-lots]

I recently took the plunge and bought a decent dmm. Additionally I bought an inexpensive soldering iron. After a little tinkering I had to take the tail cap apart. It required soldering to get a solid contact. Additionally, the heat sink need to additional soldering to complete the circuit. It had to be the worst soldering job ever seen (the soldering job I did). The flashlight is now working. So just like everyone says the flashlights from dx are hit or miss. I also received the the aurora m3-2 cree mce (bin M) 2 mode. I am looking forward to putting up some pics of both flashlights for my novice review. The Aurora seems to be working fine...so far. Thanks for the help. Ken

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Ultrafire mce wf1000/mte ssc p7/aurora mce/streamlight stinger/tiablo a9/led lenser/energizer tuf2aa

 

[MannyDLights]

Just got my WF-1000 today with the 5 MCE, I can say this is an amazing sweet light !

I have no idea if I the light is old fashioned it has Temporary switch Hi power and Off ..... Doesn't get simpler that that for me .

I am new at the flashlight craze, but until now everyone says I'm crazy..

I'm happy with the $60.00 Investment ... On to the next purchase .... :naughty: