Uniquefire HS-802?
- Thread starter datbird
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old4570
Flashlight Enthusiast
Its a 2 mode tail clicky ?, so thats where you will have to do your mods ..
Options = do away with the resistor ... and circuit ... = Click on , click off click off .
Or swap in another clicky ...
gcbryan
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have one on the way and that's my plan...to replace the reverse clicky with a forward clicky. As mentioned, in this case it will automatically convert it to a single mode light.
gcbryan
Flashlight Enthusiast
It will (and does) work. I received mine and did just that. First I replaced it with a standard reverse clicky. That was much better.
Later, after a little work, I was able to make a forward clicky that I already had work.
I really dislike those two mode resistored clickies.
Later, after a little work, I was able to make a forward clicky that I already had work.
I really dislike those two mode resistored clickies.
gcbryan
Flashlight Enthusiast
I think if I post the full link it will be removed but I bought it here in the US from Shiningbeam. It is a Romisen replacement switch and costs less than $2.00. Shipping was only $2.75 so I ordered 5 switches while I was at it.
It's also not a bad idea (which I've done) when placing an order at DX to order a bag of standard swtiches for $3.00 and a bag of replacement tailcap buttons for $3.00. Sometimes with the forward switches you may need to replace the button with one that has a longer "stub" on the back. Sometimes you may want to pull the spring off of an existing switch so a bag of them is handy to have.
It required a little work to install but no soldering. I used a washer and a nickel coated button magnet in addition to the forward clicky.
You take the retaining ring off and take the old switch out. Next put a washer over the button from the inside and then put the forward clicky in and tighten down the stock retaining ring.
The washer is used as a spacer since the forward clicky isn't as deep as the stock switch (and you don't use the plastic part that surrounded the stock switch).
The spring on the forward clicky isn't as long as the stock switch so I just added a button (spacer) magnet to the bottom of the battery. It works fine as long as the magnet is centered on the bottom of the battery when you are tightening the tail cap.
If it slips the light will stay on. Once you've tightened the tail cap if it didn't slip then it seems to stay put.
You could remove the shorter spring and solder a longer one in it's place I suppose and not use a magnet.
It's also not a bad idea (which I've done) when placing an order at DX to order a bag of standard swtiches for $3.00 and a bag of replacement tailcap buttons for $3.00. Sometimes with the forward switches you may need to replace the button with one that has a longer "stub" on the back. Sometimes you may want to pull the spring off of an existing switch so a bag of them is handy to have.
It required a little work to install but no soldering. I used a washer and a nickel coated button magnet in addition to the forward clicky.
You take the retaining ring off and take the old switch out. Next put a washer over the button from the inside and then put the forward clicky in and tighten down the stock retaining ring.
The washer is used as a spacer since the forward clicky isn't as deep as the stock switch (and you don't use the plastic part that surrounded the stock switch).
The spring on the forward clicky isn't as long as the stock switch so I just added a button (spacer) magnet to the bottom of the battery. It works fine as long as the magnet is centered on the bottom of the battery when you are tightening the tail cap.
If it slips the light will stay on. Once you've tightened the tail cap if it didn't slip then it seems to stay put.
You could remove the shorter spring and solder a longer one in it's place I suppose and not use a magnet.
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