Upgrades for SF E2E?

[Bravo25]

E2E / E20 / E2D all pretty much the same. Different lamps, and the E2D has the strike bezel, but all should be the same body type. The E-series is the smallest of the Surefires, and is the most versatile. You can use the different lamps, different heads. You can use an E2C adapter, and use the C series heads. You can add a cell extender with a C-Series head, and a P-91 lamp for 200 lumens. You can also use the E2C to use the KL3, and KL5 heads. Plus all the mods. There is just to many possibilities to list them all. If this is your first SF you can't go wrong with the E-Series. If it will see lots of use, I would recommend the HA3 finish.

 

[GadgetTravel]

Sorry, I can answer about the older versions I rather new to the flashlight game. The incandescent bulb in the E2E is great. You will really like it.

I think the E series probably has a bit more options than the other Surefires. For instance it is easy to have both a one cell and two cell body. But realistically you can do most of the things that you can do with the E series within other Surefire lines as well. It seemed to me when I got them that the main advantage over the other Surefires is the smaller size.

I have a 9P as well. I can get two diifferent LED heads for it, like for the E series. I can even use Pila rechargeable batteries in it with an incandescent lamp. But it is a lot bigger than an E series. I can easily carry either an E1 or E2 in my pocket. The 9P is a bit tough to do that with. I keep the 9P at home near its batteries charger and have the E lights with me when I am away from the house.

 

[pcmike]

I went around to a few places this morning to pick up a NEW E2e. Let me tell you, I'm pretty impressed. It's not dark yet, but I can speak forever about the quality of construction on this light. This is my first SF (I've owned and returned a SL Scorpion) and hands down, I'd rather have a SF over a SL.

First, I went to a local gun range.. they had one E2e left and the box had already been opened. Rather then be rude and call the guy on it, I took it out of the box and inspected it and noticed the clip was bent and had marks on it and the barrel had two marks. I politely told the man I was just looking and not interested in purchasing and walked out. I was pretty disappointed that he didn't tell me the light was used when I had spoke to him on the phone. Not to mention, he was selling it for $105. Such a rip in my book.

My next stop was 30miles out of my way to another gun range/store. They had a huge SF display and had everything in stock. Not to mention they were selling all the SF at full retail price which was nice. They even offered me the E2e in either a blister pack or box, I chose the box. It was $100.07 with tax for the HA version (pretty much only one they stock since no one seems to buy the others they said).

Overall, I'm impressed. I just wish the clip was reversed like on the McLux lights so that the bezel was face down in your pocket. However, since the light will mostly be in my bookbag anyhow (and not in my pocket) this really isn't a big concern. I just really love the construction and the fact that the beam quality is prefect (from what I can tell in day light). Just awesome!

 

[RA40]

pcmike...great questions and responses! This has me on the E series now. Was consideringthe L2.

I'mthinking of the E2D so I can stand it on end in stock form. Also have Aleph 1x123 body and McE2s....with a KL1 or Kl4 later, I'd have some variety.

Curiously, are the two stage SF (L1/L2) compatible with the E body or would the McGizmo two stage be a nicer option? This all ads up though.

 

[pcmike]

My opinions on flashlights seems to be changing just as much as I change my underwear (daily). I'm currently considering taking my E2e back and getting a Mr. Bulk Chameleon, or a Orb LED, or McLuxIII-PD. The E2e is a nice base, but thats about it. It's little too long for an EDC and not flexible enough for an EDC in stock form. I'm pretty much decided that what I want is an LuxeonIII LED based light that is fully regulated and has multiple brightness levels. The Chameleon offers all of what I seem to want right now and more!

Be sure to checkout the Chameleon over at flashlight-forums (do a search for it as I'm not sure I can post a direct link on this message board) before they are all spoken for! They seem to be an incredible baragin thus far!$

 

[RA40]

This how we ultimately end up buying a multitude of different lights. My purposes for this one is strictly a home light for when the sheep hit the fan.

Before then it was a small light for my overseas travel that was a 1x123 format. HDS was too much $$ and I'm somewhere between the Fenix L1P and ?

It doesn't end and the nice folks here see to it.

 

[pcmike]

Yea, the HDS is too much for me as well. My limit is ~$200. Anymore is just insane for an EDC light. I mean is there REALLY that much difference (except for the LED and board) between the cheapest HDS light and the most expensive to warrant the HUGE price difference? There probably is and I'm just not seeing it, but it just seems excessive to me at this point. Don't mean to step on any toes with that comment; like I said I probably missed something that justifies the price difference (even if it is just exclusivity, I understand that too)!

 

[jar3ds]

pcmike - L4 heads can go onto E series bodies, basically you can take an E1e and put a KL4 onto it and thats called a TW4. Then take a MN02 or 03 and put that into the E1e incandescent head and put that onto an L4 body.

The L1 and L2 are set-up in a away that the regulation boards are in the body not the head (like the KL1/KL4/KL5/KL6.) I have tried a L2 head on an E2e and found it to work, its just not regulated anymore in that set-up.

A KL5 comes on an M2 body marked L5. I think the KL5 head is capable of being placed onto an E series body with appropriate adaptor (think E2C or LM61.)

A KL6 comes on a M3 body marked L6. This head can be used on the M3, M4, and M6 lights. I am not aware of any adaptor to put the KL6 onto another body (M3-6 series to C/D/P/G or E series.)

I think putting a KL4 head onto the L2 will be a fairly interesting set-up? Pretty much cancels itself out. The L2 on low will resist the voltage/current to the head and the KL4 head will try to boost it to power the LuxV.

I am not familiar with the K2's.

excellent post... i had no idea you could put a L2 head on a E2e/E2L body and get it to work... i'll have to do that when i get home! so cool... i'd be interested to see the runtime on it since its unregulated...

however... i was told that a KL1 head doesn't work on an L2 body.... so i would assume that a KL4 head wouldn't work either... but i'm not sure... basicly though the KL4 head is the L2 head is it not?

pcmike...great questions and responses! This has me on the E series now. Was consideringthe L2.

I'mthinking of the E2D so I can stand it on end in stock form. Also have Aleph 1x123 body and McE2s....with a KL1 or Kl4 later, I'd have some variety.

Curiously, are the two stage SF (L1/L2) compatible with the E body or would the McGizmo two stage be a nicer option? This all ads up though.

for the most part the L1/L2's are not E-series compatable... however i have an L2 and a bunch of E-series accessories and i haven't combinded them...

jason above wrote that he got his L2 head to work on an E2e/E2L body... i'll try that once i get home...

---

i truely love the E-series lights... they allow you so many options! thanks for the great thread guys! :rock:

 

[RA40]

I think there are probably more combo's out there than may have been openly posted. Just have to experiment to see what may work. I'm really excited that Aleph parts fit the E series. Maybe the Aleph CR2 and/or the 1.5x123 bodies for a slightly smaller form factor.

First I have to save some $$ up.

 

[voodoogreg]

I love my SF e-series lego set (E1e, E1L, E2d, 3 KL-1's, 2 vital gear FB-1's, E-series bezel spare)
But i wouldn't knock HDS tell you tried it, or Mcgizmo either. I have pretty much used my Basic 60 exclusively for 7 mth's and see no need for most other light's. You learn a multi level light will end up not being a major battery eater since you find that you don't need full blast all the time.
And with LED's like HDS and mcgizmo Li ion batteries run great in them, and don't cost nothing to run other then the first "buy" for a charger
and say two batt's (about roughy 30$). you running nothing but winner's when you go with mcgizmo, HDS, and SF.VDG

 

[jar3ds]

i put my L2 head on my E2L body and sure enough... presto we have light.. amazing... i let it run for 30min or so and only noticed slight drop in output.... no heat coming from the head at all...

however.. i put it on my E1e body and it didn't even light... strange... i thought i'd have the whole TW04 or whatever... will be interesting to see once i get a rechargeable li-ion in there what it'll do... any theories why it wouldn't work?

 

[voodoogreg]

I think. quoting from other much more knowledgeable CPF bros, certain luxeon's from different bin's have a variance in the amount of current(or voltage?) it takes to make them work at there best. and a li ion being a higher
output cell (4.2 of the charger and 3.7 nominal) tips the scale on ones that
need more horsepower. Am I close boys? VDG