Upgrading a 1w led to -?-W Led?

TouchOfRed

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Nov 27, 2012
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Hey guys, this is my third thread (i think) in a short time. Im very sorry for this, but i dont wanna spam PM's everywhere and annoy people.
I hope you understand.

The question is simple. I just ordered this light:


See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm

It's a Varta Indistructible torch, that uses a : 1 Watt Cree XPC Q5 LED.
The batteries it needs is: 2xR6/AA.

Can i mod this light, like upgrading to a better LED for more lumens and throw? Or is this out of the question?
Sadly, i havent got it home yet, but i just wanna know if im able to do ANYTHING to make it perform better?
Or are some torches not able to be modified?

It is "Virtually Indistructible" and i wanna keep it Industructible but still to modify it to make it perform better.

At the moment i think it has a runtime of 15hours on full at 100 Lumens. If im able to modify this light, lets say i can put better LED in it, how will that affect the Runtime of it?
Beacuse if it drags the runtime down to like 1-2 hours, then its kinda useless for me.

Sorry for doing many threads, but i just wanna get these questions out of my head. Thanks.. :)
 
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Gunner12

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Bay Area, CA
Most LED lights have a circuit in them to raise(boost) or lower (buck) the voltage to what the LED needs (typically 3.2-3.7v). Switching the LED will most likely keep the same runtime, but affect the overall output and beam pattern.

The Cree XP-C is has a small die compared to most LEDs, so it'll give a narrower beam with more throw. The smaller die does mean less overall output though. If you switch to another LED, say the Cree XP-G (same footprint and pads as the XP-C), then you'll get more overall output, but the larger die of the XP-G (4x larger) means a wider hotspot with less throw.

Didn't know that XP-Cs now come in the Q5 bin, if that's true, it could make some nice throwy small lights.

I don't think 2 AA batteries can support 100 lumen for 15 hours, it'll probably do it for 5 hours. The Fenix LD22 does 95 lumen for almost 6 hours.

That light looks like the Rayovac Indestructible lights in the US, and the 2 AA version can take P60 drop-ins with a mod: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...structible-2xAA-as-a-GREAT-little-15-P60-Host!!

You could try a low output, single CR123, long runtime P60 module if the light is the same as the Rayovac Indestructible.
 

AnAppleSnail

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I have used a VERY HIGH output P60 dropin in my Rayovac/Varta 2AA LED. The 15-watt-on-high Torchlab H3 Triple runs in this host on 2xAA (200 lumen output or so), or on two 14500 (About 1000 lumen output). I do not suggest running the stock switch at over about 1 amp on general principles.

I suggest: Either a "low-voltage" (2.8v to 4.2v input) P60 dropin (For two AAs), with or without modes, with an LED you like. You will certainly want to 'wrap' the dropin to improve thermal conductivity to the flashlight body. Check how to do this on CPF. This will cost about $30 for a budget 200-300 lumen version. Even 300 lumen will not look especially brighter than stock.

Or a high-voltage dropin (For two Li-Ions), same as above. Do monitor heat closely; if the LED turns angry-blue, it is overheating dangerously fast.
 

TouchOfRed

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Nov 27, 2012
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Location
Sweden
Well, i do want more flood then throw. So that sounds very good. :)

Only 5 hours only? Thats a BIG overrated runtime if so :O

Yeah, its almost identic to the Raoyvac.

Let's say i do this, with the dropin. How much better will it be? Ita maybe hard to say, but how may lumens? it didnt say how much difference in lumens output he got by changing to P60 dropin.

Most LED lights have a circuit in them to raise(boost) or lower (buck) the voltage to what the LED needs (typically 3.2-3.7v). Switching the LED will most likely keep the same runtime, but affect the overall output and beam pattern.

The Cree XP-C is has a small die compared to most LEDs, so it'll give a narrower beam with more throw. The smaller die does mean less overall output though. If you switch to another LED, say the Cree XP-G (same footprint and pads as the XP-C), then you'll get more overall output, but the larger die of the XP-G (4x larger) means a wider hotspot with less throw.

Didn't know that XP-Cs now come in the Q5 bin, if that's true, it could make some nice throwy small lights.

I don't think 2 AA batteries can support 100 lumen for 15 hours, it'll probably do it for 5 hours. The Fenix LD22 does 95 lumen for almost 6 hours.

That light looks like the Rayovac Indestructible lights in the US, and the 2 AA version can take P60 drop-ins with a mod: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...structible-2xAA-as-a-GREAT-little-15-P60-Host!!

You could try a low output, single CR123, long runtime P60 module if the light is the same as the Rayovac Indestructible.
 

TouchOfRed

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
70
Location
Sweden
I dont fully understand, but 1000lumens from a Rayovac? :eek:

So 300lumens will not be significantly brighter?

I have used a VERY HIGH output P60 dropin in my Rayovac/Varta 2AA LED. The 15-watt-on-high Torchlab H3 Triple runs in this host on 2xAA (200 lumen output or so), or on two 14500 (About 1000 lumen output). I do not suggest running the stock switch at over about 1 amp on general principles.

I suggest: Either a "low-voltage" (2.8v to 4.2v input) P60 dropin (For two AAs), with or without modes, with an LED you like. You will certainly want to 'wrap' the dropin to improve thermal conductivity to the flashlight body. Check how to do this on CPF. This will cost about $30 for a budget 200-300 lumen version. Even 300 lumen will not look especially brighter than stock.

Or a high-voltage dropin (For two Li-Ions), same as above. Do monitor heat closely; if the LED turns angry-blue, it is overheating dangerously fast.
 

AnAppleSnail

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 21, 2009
Messages
4,200
Location
South Hill, VA
I dont fully understand, but 1000lumens from a Rayovac? :eek:

So 300lumens will not be significantly brighter?

1000 lumen from a different driver, heatsink, and LED, in the corpse of a Rayovac. 300 lumen will look "noticeably" brighter, but not quite twice as bright as stock. You could spend $20 and get a nice boost, but a "wow" difference would cost more.
 

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