W200+W200=W400

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Packhorse

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
1,912
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New Zealand
I have a couple of W200 heads spare due to the body leaking . I am not sure if this is due to them being bored too deep to take 18650's or due to centerline porosity.

Either way I have 2 heads and you know what they say. Two heads are better than one!

At this stage I am still a little undecided on how to configure it all.

But I will probably go with a standard reflector and XML in one side and a Ahorton Aspheric and XML in the other each driven off a DX 3 amp 3 mode driver converted to single mode. Each will be independently switchable.
I would prefer the switch on the head but not quite sure how to do this.

To convert the DX drivers you remove the mode board and replace it with a 1K resistor. I am guessing if I put a reed switch in line with this resistor it will then turn the light on and off.

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Acetal for the block.
While aluminium would be probably be required for use in air its not required for use underwater.
Of course the W200 heads are aluminium.
 
Interesting concept ,maybe useful for video
I had the same problem when I bored too close to the end of the W200 battery tube
I found that Loctite super glue gel welds the W200 battery tube
This allows it to be cut down to use a single 18650 with a suitable buck driver from KD
Nice size for a back up, or focus light, using a powdered reflector & defuser to eliminate the Led hot spot
I ve made a few of these "sawn off" W200 using a P4 red emitter as focus light for night diving
Red doesn't seem to scare fish as much as cool white Led
 
No good for video. Beam is too tight. Well I guess with a aspheric lens set real close to the LED it may be OK.
As it is I have just finished the light. Its in getting pressure tested at the mo.
I re anodised the W200 heads. NOt a fantastic result by any stretch of the imagination. But it will do for now.
I decided to go for a XML and standard reflector in one and XML and Ahorton aspheric in the other. Both running 2.8 amp from AMC 7135 driver and 8.4v LI Ion battery.
Will post a pic when it comes out of the pot.
 
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Packhorse :

How you solve switching between heads or both (some dial ring on cable gland or changed switch on canister ?)
 
At this stage its all or nothing. I may change out the AMC driver for 2 XML 2.8amp single modes ( when I can figure out how to make the 3 mode into single mode) then I can use the 3 stage rotating ring can lid I have.
 
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