Want to make my first hotwire...Suggestions?

[Neg2LED]

Hi guys,
Been a while since I posted a new thread anywhere on the forums, but you guys have gotten me obsessed with bright incan lights.

I have about $150US, what do you guys think i should do as a first hotwire? i would like something mag-based.

I was thinking a ROP with 6 eneloops in a 2d mag using one of FM's 6aa to 2d holders (i already have one which im about to outmode for a different power source)

Good idea?

I would think i would need:

Mag 2D Host
6 Eneloop AA cells
UCL lens
Cammed MOP metal reflector
ROP bulb set
6AA-2D series adaptor (fivemega one, already sourced)

or should i go the 2c route with:

Mag 2C host
2 AW Protected C Li-Ion
UCL,
Cammed MOP reflector
ROP bulb set.

Or should i save up some more $ and make myself a WA1111 hotwire with the 6 eneloops and a hotdriver/KIU socket?

Mag 2D Host
6 Eneloop AA cells
UCL lens
Cammed MOP metal reflector
WA1111 (packet of 3 for spares)
Hotdriver Complete (Installed in KIU)
6AA-2D series adaptor (fivemega one, already sourced)

Anywho, i'm open to suggestions.

--neg

 

[mdocod]

I think the ROP with the eneloops is a great place to start.

 

[grandeyota]

I just put together a ROP with the FM 6aa to 2d holder and eneloops and it went together flawlessly. Very easy for my 1st mod.

 

[RickB]

While I agree that the 2D/6AA ROP is a good choice, I put together a 2C ROP LE using AW's "C" LiIons and I really like it. I think the biggest drawback to the 2C is that right now there's no inexpensive, easy, fire-and-forget charger for the Cs. Maybe that's a good thing, since it makes you pay more attention to the charging?

I would ask yourself what you might use the light for and let that be your guide. If the light is going to sit around between uses, maybe the LE version would be better. If you are using it frequently, then maybe the NiMH version is the way to go. I personally like the 2C size over the 2D size, but you may feel differently.

Now I'm looking at your post again, it looks like you already have the 2D/6AA adaptor? If that's the case I would probably stick with that...

And as to the ROP vs. 1111 question, for a first hotwire, the ROP is great because you don't have to add the extra complication of the switch/socket conversion. And the ROP, done carefully, is so much brighter than a stock Mag, or anything else you are likely to have seen, that it is a very fun and satisfying build.

Have fun!

-Rick

 

[frogs3]

Couple of questions first before jumping in with any cash:

Do you want "wow" or usable runtime of say 30 to 50 minutes? The brighter the shorter, in general. As we used to say in the 60's more show less go.

Do you want the 2 cell form factor, or would you be willing to look at the unbored and bored options for a 3 D M@g host, with both more lumens and more runtime? 2 C is very compact especially for a "user", but 3D offers more capacity.

For the money you mentioned, a store-boughten M@g85 from, I believe, Lighthound, can arrive at your door, where you can take it apart, improve some of the components, reduce resistance, etc. and in essence, reverse engineer a mainstream hotwire into your own direction. [For the record, I built a M@g85 a few weeks ago, and the parts, like KIU socket, Al reflector, FM battery holder, UCL lens, etc. came to the same price as you listed.] This is yet another approach to a first project.

It depends on whether you enjoy building things (I certainly did), or want to learn the basic rules first with a turnkey, then go from there. It depends on your background. Of course, next you will be getting battery checkers, DMM's, soldering stations, more varieties of batteries than you think you want, and ending with maybe even a lathe or welder!!

You're hooked already, so it doesn't really matter which one you do first. The next will be bigger and better.

Just my perspective from watching this addiction spread hopelessly.

Enjoy,

-HAK

 

[Neg2LED]

I would like the 30-50 minute runtime rather than 'lets all blind a squirrel'

I think for now i would rather stick with NiMh sheerly because i already have the holder and, as mentioned above, there is no easy charger for the C li-ion.

I enjoy building things....How much runtime does a 3D M@g85 get?

--neg

 

[Neg2LED]

Couple of questions first before jumping in with any cash:

Do you want "wow" or usable runtime of say 30 to 50 minutes? The brighter the shorter, in general. As we used to say in the 60's more show less go.

Do you want the 2 cell form factor, or would you be willing to look at the unbored and bored options for a 3 D M@g host, with both more lumens and more runtime? 2 C is very compact especially for a "user", but 3D offers more capacity.

For the money you mentioned, a store-boughten M@g85 from, I believe, Lighthound, can arrive at your door, where you can take it apart, improve some of the components, reduce resistance, etc. and in essence, reverse engineer a mainstream hotwire into your own direction. [For the record, I built a M@g85 a few weeks ago, and the parts, like KIU socket, Al reflector, FM battery holder, UCL lens, etc. came to the same price as you listed.] This is yet another approach to a first project.

It depends on whether you enjoy building things (I certainly did), or want to learn the basic rules first with a turnkey, then go from there. It depends on your background. Of course, next you will be getting battery checkers, DMM's, soldering stations, more varieties of batteries than you think you want, and ending with maybe even a lathe or welder!!

You're hooked already, so it doesn't really matter which one you do first. The next will be bigger and better.

Just my perspective from watching this addiction spread hopelessly.

Enjoy,

-HAK

I already have 5 DMMs, 2 soldering stations, a battery checker and access to a minimill and TiG welder....

And I'm only 14!

--neg

 

[FILIPPO]

I suggest mag 2D ROP becouse it is very easy to mod...and you don't have to be worried about li-ion another way to make a ROP is to mod a mag6D without any battery older. in this case you will have more runtime but less manageability.

the mag85 is a very good light and I think that you can have about 30 minutes of runtime with some good batts...

 

[frogs3]

Neg2LED,You're Hopeless!! With all that good stuff, you need to engineer a NEW hotwire for all of us peons.

You are ready to start with a serious light -- my Mag85 goes for nearly 45 min with fully charged Eneloops, and the FM 2.5 Throwmaster head does not get beyond warm. The regular head was a bit hotter, but not ready to melt anything down. I actually use it when it is time to see what is outside, without resorting to the HID's. More light than a 1111 but the color temperature is more yellow. Loads of articles on this basic design. With switch mods, resistance reduction, runtime can go to nearly 60 min. and outputs up to (claimed) 1000 lumens. For other bulbs check out LuxLuthor's references; Silverfox's battery threads are a life-saver, literally.

I agree with the use of the holder you have, and the ease plus safety of NiMH's gives them the edge unless you want really high current draw. With your tools, you can copy one of Fivemega's 2C designs from the CPF archives.

If you have not already studied this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=155998 I find it a valuable resource. It refers to lots of the prior tutorials on "how I did it" by some of the hotwire hotshots covering not only the light itself, but the charging systems, choice of batteries, safety factors, bulb selection, etc.

So tell me, which DMM do you prefer? My RS $20 model was junk and went back. If I need to, I'll spend some money to get one that works reliably.

All Hope Abandon,
Ye Who Enter Here.
Canto 1, Dante Aligheri

-HAK

 

[LuxLuthor]

I already have 5 DMMs, 2 soldering stations, a battery checker and access to a minimill and TiG welder....

And I'm only 14!

--neg

Not very many things shock me, but to have all those, especially a TiG welder at age 14 is pretty amazing! :twothumbs

 

[Neg2LED]

please note: i don't own the welder or minimill, they belong to my uncle. - but i have access to them.

i have a tiny DMM (for pocket carry ) , an impedance/inductance/capacitance meter, an autoranging multipurpose dmm (which i use as my main one) and somewhere i have 2 old dmms.

Oh and i bought a 2C M@g11 (WA1111 globe, MOP reflector, KIU, 2x18650) off of norm.

i intend to upgrade it a bit (namely swapping in protected li-ion cells) and i'll run from there. the Mag11 really rocks though.

--neg

 

[jimjones3630]

Rop are fun and easy to build. The Ho bulb in my over modded ROP LE, tailcap spring, pedistal spring, ground connection, and soaked in Pro Gold constantly instantflashed . The LO bulb would not instantflash.

Then I put in a Kiu socket with heat sink and started instantflashing Phillips 5761's. It rerates to 1153 t lumen at 7.8v, 45w.

WA 1185 rated to 1124 t lumens at 12v, 42w for comparison.

WA 1111 loved that host and burn very white 719t lumens at 7.8v, 30w. All lumen and watt values from AWR's hotrater.

Jim

 

[Neg2LED]

Someone suggested to me that I should use a WA1160 lamp and a hotdriver rather than the WA1111 and it will get more light and more runtime (lower power lamp)

this was because the high current draw of the 1111 means that a significant amount of power is lost in the switch, tailcap etc. leading to a relatively low output.

The 1111 still gets at least 700 bulb lumens however (visual comparison with a Pila of 700 bulb lumens)

--neg