detenebrator
Newly Enlightened
Which current Surefire models are waterproof enough to be submerged and operated "continuously" (for several minutes) to 6-10 ft. (2-3m) depth? I'm pretty sure the M series are - what about the L5? and the L2?
Waterproof Surefires?
- Thread starter detenebrator
- Start date
Size15's
Flashaholic
Welcome to CPF
What is your intended activity/requirement?
I would have no problem taking the M Series or L Series (exept L7) underwater 2-3 metres. In fact, I would expect all current non-rechargeable SureFires should be able to handle such an activity with the exception of the G2.
I would prefer to have the light already switched on prior to submerging and I would ensure the o-rings were clean, intact and lubricated.
What is your intended activity/requirement?
I would have no problem taking the M Series or L Series (exept L7) underwater 2-3 metres. In fact, I would expect all current non-rechargeable SureFires should be able to handle such an activity with the exception of the G2.
I would prefer to have the light already switched on prior to submerging and I would ensure the o-rings were clean, intact and lubricated.
detenebrator
Newly Enlightened
Thanks for the quick help. The intended purpose if for caving (what you call "potholing" in the UK, I think). I have some great long-runtime head-lamps (TAG-Lite, PT Switchback), and some backups (PT Attitude, PT Impact), but I was looking for a REALLY bright light for route-finding (Our caves here are BIG). I'm thinking about a M2 or even a Turbo-head model. Now, I use a Surge, but it's bulky and I could use more throw. Are the Turbo-heads waterproof as well?
I always carry one backup light (a PT Attitude) in a pocket on the sleeve of my cavesuit. The idea is to always have a backup even if a fall damaged my headlamp and separated me from my pack. I have been thinking about an L2 to replace it. Durabilty, thin profile, and runtime are the important factors.
By the way, I don't actually expect the lights to be under 3m of water - I'm not a cave diver. But it's likely they will be under 1m of water in strong currents, so that was an approximation/safety factor.
I appreciate you advice on this.
I always carry one backup light (a PT Attitude) in a pocket on the sleeve of my cavesuit. The idea is to always have a backup even if a fall damaged my headlamp and separated me from my pack. I have been thinking about an L2 to replace it. Durabilty, thin profile, and runtime are the important factors.
By the way, I don't actually expect the lights to be under 3m of water - I'm not a cave diver. But it's likely they will be under 1m of water in strong currents, so that was an approximation/safety factor.
I appreciate you advice on this.
I have taken a L2 and L6 down to probably 5 meters with no problems. As Al stated, the O-rings and their seats need to be clean and properly lubed. The turtle below had his eye on pre-production KL6 # A00001 (approximate depth - 6 meters):
detenebrator
Newly Enlightened
Where was that (GREAT!) picture taken. Can I hazard a guess of somewhere in the Yucatan (Xel Ha ?)
Size15's
Flashaholic
I've no experience potholing, but, I suspect such a flashlight as the L2 will get pretty dirty. If you are operating (rotating) the TailCap in such wet and dirty conditions, having only one o-ring may not be enough.
The KT TurboHead is as "waterproof" as the Millennium TurboHead. The Millennium TurboHead is shock isolated which could help.
The TurboHead models such as the M3T, M4 and M6 are great. I'd take two M3T's (one as back up or so not to need to open it up to replace the batteries) The M Series have double o-rings on the TailCap end of the body.
For a onbody backup, I'd use a UKE-2L.
I think though, a dedicated divelight would be better than a metal flashlight.
Al
Al
The KT TurboHead is as "waterproof" as the Millennium TurboHead. The Millennium TurboHead is shock isolated which could help.
The TurboHead models such as the M3T, M4 and M6 are great. I'd take two M3T's (one as back up or so not to need to open it up to replace the batteries) The M Series have double o-rings on the TailCap end of the body.
For a onbody backup, I'd use a UKE-2L.
I think though, a dedicated divelight would be better than a metal flashlight.
Al
Al
The pic was taken in Maui. As Al has stated, the LOTC's can become pepper grinders in silty and dirty environments. If you do go with a SF, I would suggest you use a "clickie" so you aren't rotating any of the components. The older style clickie shown above (Al can supply the part number! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ) was good to about 7 meters and then the pressure would activate the switch. None of these are good dive lights but likely up to your needs.
Size15's
Flashaholic
That clickie on the L6 shown underwater is the Z48
See here:
See here:
Size15's
Flashaholic
That's the 6PN.
SureFire use "N" to mean that specific light has been depth tested.
Usually, you don't see them for sale since they are made to order but sometimes there are extra ones.
SureFire use "N" to mean that specific light has been depth tested.
Usually, you don't see them for sale since they are made to order but sometimes there are extra ones.
KevinL
Flashlight Enthusiast
Like the ones Meridian Tactical has?
Lion
Newly Enlightened
To:Size15s
Is there any difference between 6P and 6PN in design or
meterial?
Thanks.
Is there any difference between 6P and 6PN in design or
meterial?
Thanks.
Size15's
Flashaholic
That I understand it, there is no difference in design.
However, they may use a different or second o-ring like the Millennium Series have, and they also may ensure that the o-rings are well lubricated. I am not certain of this though. Good o-ring care is vital though.
Al
However, they may use a different or second o-ring like the Millennium Series have, and they also may ensure that the o-rings are well lubricated. I am not certain of this though. Good o-ring care is vital though.
Al
Lion
Newly Enlightened
It reminds me.
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.
To:McGizmo
Can I borrow your picture?I want to share with my friends
at another forum. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.
To:McGizmo
Can I borrow your picture?I want to share with my friends
at another forum. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
AtomSphere
Enlightened
nice pic... btw i tested both of my surefire c3 and e2d and both passed 35psi of water pressure(well over 20metres)... u have to pay special attention on the e2d's clicky and check if the ring screw(correct term?) is tightened well or else it WILL leak...
GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'd just get a UK. Cheaper too, if it does flood
V8TOYTRUCK
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
Lion said:
It reminds me.
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.
I just checked my M3, looks like I am missing an O-ring, I've always wondered why they put two for the tailcap and one for the head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif, Time to e-mail SF CS.
Lion said:
It reminds me.
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.
I just checked my M3, looks like I am missing an O-ring, I've always wondered why they put two for the tailcap and one for the head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif, Time to e-mail SF CS.
Size15's
Flashaholic
There should be one on the bezel end of the body and two on the TailCap end of the Millennium Series Body.
Al
Al
kongfuchicken
Flashlight Enthusiast
I guess the tailcap has 2 because you may twist it under the rain or even submerged while the bezel wouldn't need to be twisted for activation and one will do fine.
V8TOYTRUCK
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hmm..that makes sense, but it seems like on the bezel end there is a space for another O-ring
