ozzie_c_cobblepot
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2013
- Messages
- 207
First, in my own words, then I'll fill out the checklist to make sure I don't forget anything.
Summary: I want an AA-powered, diameter <=20mm, length <=90mm, with moonlight mode (<=3lm), at least 3 total modes, good runtime, tail clicky, highest output at least 100lm, preferably with some kind of a remaining charge indicator.
Additional thoughts
Cell type
Seems to me AA is best for my other requirements, but I'm also okay with CR123 as long as the diameter is acceptable (e.g. I have a D25C clicky and size is okay).
Size
Size is of course related to cell type, but generally I'd rather have less diameter and am willing to accept slightly longer length.
Modes and mode spacing
Some kind of moonlight is mandatory (e.g. no 2-level 30/140 lights like the SWM R10A). It's acceptable if it's not really a true moonlight, like maybe a 2 or 3, but the lowest cannot be a 10, which is really more of an indoor level. The highest level does not have to be crazy high. I have other lights if I'll need something super bright. One possibility could be moonlight/indoor/outdoor levels of 0.5/10/100, with runtimes of basically_forever/48h/3h or something. Could also be a 4-level light, maybe with a hidden moonlight or something. I'm somewhat open here.
Runtime & remaining charge indicator
One way to measure runtime of an AA light is "if I put in an Energizer L91 lithium primary, it should last for a very long time". I don't use the light _that_ often, and usually for short amounts of time. But related is having some kind of a remaining charge indicator. It's great and all to have "great runtimes" but one should not be notified that it's time to change the battery by the light just not working.
UI
I've seen many UIs that I like, some I don't. I'm pretty open here. But I've got something against side switches, because they just accidentally activate too often - or at least I worry about them accidentally activating too much. So a physical rear switch is better in that regard.
A note on Zebralight
These lights are amazing. Extremely high quality. Given a cell type, they make some of the smallest bodies. Runtime is fantastic, very well regulated. They have a remaining charge indicator. The only thing they don't have is a rear activation switch. So - to anyone who has an SC52/SC53/SC5 - should I not worry at all about the accidental activation? For reference, I have an SC62 which I really like, but when I keep in in my pocket I quarter-twist the tailcap. It's a slight pain to have to always remember to do that.
Last thing before getting to the checklist, the light this is replacing is a SWM V11R. The UI for that one is amazingly simple (especially compared to the SC62 LOL). And the tailcap never accidentally activates. No fancy modes, but the flexibility of the control ring is basically infinite.
==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!
_X__Up to $100.
3) Format:
_X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
4) Size:
_X__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
5) Emitter/Light source:
_X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
6) Manufacturer:
_X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
7) What power source do you want to use?
AA or CR123
8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).
_X__I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
_X__I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
_X__I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
_X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.
9)Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.
_X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
_X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
_X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
_X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
_X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).
No options apply here. On moonlight it should basically run "forever". On a 10-20lm level it should run for at least 24 hours, preferably more. On whatever the highest setting is, it should run for maybe 2-3 hrs? I do not need it "to run on max for extended periods" or anything like that. I use max sparingly for very short amounts of time.
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.
_X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):
_X__I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
_X__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
_X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
_X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
14)Material/Finish/Coating<br>_X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
15) Water resistance
_X__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
_X__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
16) Storage conditions
_X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.
None
Summary: I want an AA-powered, diameter <=20mm, length <=90mm, with moonlight mode (<=3lm), at least 3 total modes, good runtime, tail clicky, highest output at least 100lm, preferably with some kind of a remaining charge indicator.
Additional thoughts
Cell type
Seems to me AA is best for my other requirements, but I'm also okay with CR123 as long as the diameter is acceptable (e.g. I have a D25C clicky and size is okay).
Size
Size is of course related to cell type, but generally I'd rather have less diameter and am willing to accept slightly longer length.
Modes and mode spacing
Some kind of moonlight is mandatory (e.g. no 2-level 30/140 lights like the SWM R10A). It's acceptable if it's not really a true moonlight, like maybe a 2 or 3, but the lowest cannot be a 10, which is really more of an indoor level. The highest level does not have to be crazy high. I have other lights if I'll need something super bright. One possibility could be moonlight/indoor/outdoor levels of 0.5/10/100, with runtimes of basically_forever/48h/3h or something. Could also be a 4-level light, maybe with a hidden moonlight or something. I'm somewhat open here.
Runtime & remaining charge indicator
One way to measure runtime of an AA light is "if I put in an Energizer L91 lithium primary, it should last for a very long time". I don't use the light _that_ often, and usually for short amounts of time. But related is having some kind of a remaining charge indicator. It's great and all to have "great runtimes" but one should not be notified that it's time to change the battery by the light just not working.
UI
I've seen many UIs that I like, some I don't. I'm pretty open here. But I've got something against side switches, because they just accidentally activate too often - or at least I worry about them accidentally activating too much. So a physical rear switch is better in that regard.
A note on Zebralight
These lights are amazing. Extremely high quality. Given a cell type, they make some of the smallest bodies. Runtime is fantastic, very well regulated. They have a remaining charge indicator. The only thing they don't have is a rear activation switch. So - to anyone who has an SC52/SC53/SC5 - should I not worry at all about the accidental activation? For reference, I have an SC62 which I really like, but when I keep in in my pocket I quarter-twist the tailcap. It's a slight pain to have to always remember to do that.
Last thing before getting to the checklist, the light this is replacing is a SWM V11R. The UI for that one is amazingly simple (especially compared to the SC62 LOL). And the tailcap never accidentally activates. No fancy modes, but the flexibility of the control ring is basically infinite.
==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================
1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).
2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!
_X__Up to $100.
3) Format:
_X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
4) Size:
_X__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
5) Emitter/Light source:
_X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
6) Manufacturer:
_X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
7) What power source do you want to use?
AA or CR123
8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).
_X__I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
_X__I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
_X__I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
_X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.
9)Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.
_X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
_X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
_X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
_X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
_X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).
No options apply here. On moonlight it should basically run "forever". On a 10-20lm level it should run for at least 24 hours, preferably more. On whatever the highest setting is, it should run for maybe 2-3 hrs? I do not need it "to run on max for extended periods" or anything like that. I use max sparingly for very short amounts of time.
11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.
_X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):
_X__I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
_X__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
_X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
_X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
14)Material/Finish/Coating<br>_X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
15) Water resistance
_X__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
_X__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
16) Storage conditions
_X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.
None
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