What camera settings for beamshots?
- Thread starter AndyP
- Start date
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Unfortunately the only way to guarantee that the photos are directly comparable, is to use the same camera for all of them. I tried using the identical settings that MTBR.com used for their last major comparison of bike lights, and the photos came out much brighter than reality.
The best you can do, is to manually set the camera's other settings, and then vary the exposure time until the photos look like what you really see. For powerful lights, I generally use
ISO 50
Daytime white balance
f8.0
and an exposure time of 6 to 8 seconds is usually what it takes to get a realistic-looking photo.
If your camera cannot get a realistic result because the longest exposure time is still not long enough, either drop the f-stop or raise the ISO as needed. Low f-stop settings result in a smaller range of distances being in focus, with the areas further away or closer being blurred. Higher ISO settings increase the "grain" of the image. I guess it goes without saying that you need to set the camera on a stationary object or tripod, and I also use the 2-second time delay so I can get my hands off the camera before it begins taking the photo.
The best you can do, is to manually set the camera's other settings, and then vary the exposure time until the photos look like what you really see. For powerful lights, I generally use
ISO 50
Daytime white balance
f8.0
and an exposure time of 6 to 8 seconds is usually what it takes to get a realistic-looking photo.
If your camera cannot get a realistic result because the longest exposure time is still not long enough, either drop the f-stop or raise the ISO as needed. Low f-stop settings result in a smaller range of distances being in focus, with the areas further away or closer being blurred. Higher ISO settings increase the "grain" of the image. I guess it goes without saying that you need to set the camera on a stationary object or tripod, and I also use the 2-second time delay so I can get my hands off the camera before it begins taking the photo.
I've got a Canon 40D plus a couple of lenses, tripod etc, so exposure times are not a problem (can use bulb mode for exposures over 30sec).
Min ISO/ASA setting I can use is 100, and I have F stop options from f1.8 to f27 i think. I'll have a play and see what I can get. I thought there was a standard f stop / exposure time used but i'll just try and get it looking realistic
Min ISO/ASA setting I can use is 100, and I have F stop options from f1.8 to f27 i think. I'll have a play and see what I can get. I thought there was a standard f stop / exposure time used but i'll just try and get it looking realistic
NorCal2500HD
Newly Enlightened
You could even use iso 400 or so, because the noise is still pretty low....time or shutter release cable are a big help too and if you really want to get picky, lock the mirror too.....
Steve K
Flashlight Enthusiast
Beamshots are handy for making a quick and crude comparison, but they will never replace actually seeing the beam in person.
The first rule is to use the same exposure for all the shots. Doesn't matter a lot what the apeture or shutter speed is, as long as they are controlled. Pick which light will be the one to get the correct exposure, and expect that anything much brighter or dimmer will either wash everything out or just look very dark. In other words, you'll only know that a given light is either brighter or dimmer than the one that had the correct exposure, but you won't know how much brighter or dimmer.
A proper light meter will be the only thing that will tell you how much brighter or dimmer a light is, and that's a lot of work.
There's also the second factor of how the eye adapts to the ambient light level. A light will seem dim if there is a lot of ambient light, and very bright if viewed in complete darkness. A bike light that is very bright out in dark rural areas is nearly useless in some suburban neighborhoods where yard lights shine in my eyes but not on the road (and it drives me nuts!).
Steve K.
The first rule is to use the same exposure for all the shots. Doesn't matter a lot what the apeture or shutter speed is, as long as they are controlled. Pick which light will be the one to get the correct exposure, and expect that anything much brighter or dimmer will either wash everything out or just look very dark. In other words, you'll only know that a given light is either brighter or dimmer than the one that had the correct exposure, but you won't know how much brighter or dimmer.
A proper light meter will be the only thing that will tell you how much brighter or dimmer a light is, and that's a lot of work.
There's also the second factor of how the eye adapts to the ambient light level. A light will seem dim if there is a lot of ambient light, and very bright if viewed in complete darkness. A bike light that is very bright out in dark rural areas is nearly useless in some suburban neighborhoods where yard lights shine in my eyes but not on the road (and it drives me nuts!).
Steve K.
