What current do you run your LED?

[thefish]

Some of you may know I created my first regulator http://www.siliconlite.com/CC-Drive.html a while back, but it was designed only for 350ma and under but I get the feeling that most of you want more power (myself included).

What current do most of you run your LED's at now days?

I have completed one design (specs below) for a new regulator that is nearly perfect in my mind. I was designed it for 3-4 x Nimh or 3 x Alkaline or 1 x Li-Ion. It will require an investment of $100-$200 to prototype so I thought I better see what features you guys would all like.

EDIT: I have updated some of the specs

SharkBate V1 TM

• Buck/Boost Constant Current Regulator
• Infinitely variable constant current: 60ma - 1A (via pot)
• Vin Range: 2.7-5.5V (for startup)
• Vlockout: 1.9V (while running)
• Estimated efficiency of ~88% @500ma from 2.7-5.5V
• Over temperature protection (130C)
• Short circuit protection
• Open circuit protection
• 0.55" (14mm) Nominal Dia
• 0.15" (3.7mm) Maximum thickness

http://www.siliconlite.com/SharkBate.html

EDIT: Stupid me, forgot to add the Poll, oh well just type it in I guess

 

[MattK]

If possible it would be great to see a wider voltage input tolerance - say up to 8.4/9V to allow 2 Li-Ions.

 

[chimo]

I would also suggest you make the low end current even lower. Perhaps down to the 20-30mA range.

 

[techwg]

wow im a flashlight lover not an electrician lol i dont know about those things

 

[thefish]

If possible it would be great to see a wider voltage input tolerance - say up to 8.4/9V to allow 2 Li-Ions.

I wish I could do that it would make this thing much more flexible but I don't think I can with the current IC/design.

 

[thefish]

I would also suggest you make the low end current even lower. Perhaps down to the 20-30mA range.

I think it could go down the 50mA-60mA easily... 20-30mA maybe possible I will have to do some testing on that.

 

[HiltiHome]

How is the brightness selected ?

I would suggest to keep it as simple as possible.


Do you plan to make 3-channel version ?(Flupic-style)

 

[thefish]

How is the brightness selected ?

I would suggest to keep it as simple as possible.


Do you plan to make 3-channel version ?(Flupic-style)

Brightness UI is just about as simple as one can make... it is all controlled by a single 50K variable pot. Or if you like a fixed level you can use a resistor.

 

[jsr]

Sounds really great. As already mentioned, lower drive current ability would be nice. I'm fine with anywhere in the 20mA - 60mA range.

In your description, you say "Designed for 3 x Nimh or 3 x Alkaline or 1 x Li-Ion". Since it's a buck/boost (sepic), why do you describe it as more of a buck only? It should be able to handle lower Vins to boost up to the required VF. If 2.7V is the min Vin, than that's fine to state that. Ideally, it'd be great if it could work from 0.9V and boost from there. There will be the obviously Io limitations and efficiency hit, but having that ability opens the driver up to 1xNiMH and 1xAlk applications.

I like the adjustable pot idea. The prob I see with that is in many applications, the user either chooses to or has to epoxy the board completely, blocking access to an on-board pot. For my app for ex, a 0.55" board dropping into a E-Can. The battery pressing up from the bottom of the driver forces it up, so the driver would have to be epoxied into the E-Can.

I'd also LOVE a 3-parallel version of it in a larger diameter. I have a project in mind looking for such a driver. It'd be simpler to have a single pot contol current to all channels, but individual control would be sweet (but not sure it would fit on a small PCB). Actually, I have (2) projects in mind, but they are quite different. If I could find someone to machine me parts at decent prices (alas, I hate being poor), I could make some of these ideas a reality.

Oh, and 2-stage output capability would be nice if there is limited/no access to the pot without opening up the light to access the driver. I don't need mid, SOS, or strobe, tho if you can add them in with no additional complexity, that'd be fine.

 

[FlashCrazy]

I also like the idea of a lower current on the low side. Love the open circuit protection. How about reverse polarity protection too? That is if it's needed in your particular design.

 

[thefish]

I like the adjustable pot idea. The prob I see with that is in many applications, the user either chooses to or has to epoxy the board completely, blocking access to an on-board pot. For my app for ex, a 0.55" board dropping into a E-Can. The battery pressing up from the bottom of the driver forces it up, so the driver would have to be epoxied into the E-Can.

I was thinking about that too... my prototype (using the 1watt system) actually uses the POT offboard which then eliminates that problem.

 

[frank777]

As long as there is overtemperature protection, I prefer to run up to the full 1 amp for the Cree XR-E.