What does the G&P 3W run at? 750mah?

[c0t0d0s0]

I still don't understand this " potting ". I can't seem to accept the mental picture of the driver board with a spoonful of goop all over it. That can't be right, right?

Here's a visual... a Seouled and potted 7W G&P module. Thermal epoxy was injected inside with a syringe through the small hole drilled on top - I chose this approach becaue I didn't want to risk damaging the converter board while prying it out. Not really pretty, but it works.

 

[bfg9000]

Wquiles got 610mA from rechargeables and 790mA from primaries on a first generation (using a star) BOG/G&P 3W module.

Considering the star mounting, the Seoul would likely be easier to retrofit to a 1st gen 3W module.

But man, those $20 shipped CREE XR-E modules look pretty irresistible if you don't already have the G&P modules. Of course if you do, this would provide the perfect opportunity to try both P4 and XR-E power from the same lights... Buy them ALL is the mantra here isn't it?

Edit: Oh and Owen, here's how to fit the DB1000 into a G&P module.

 

[KDOG3]

Well like I said in the 1W thread, I've got 2 AW 17670s' + the Ultrafire charger on the way from lighthound, so that should eliminate the risk...

 

[c0t0d0s0]

Those current figures are for the current drawn from battery - emitter current will obviously be different.

Current 3W modules are designed differently - no more star, bare emitter is epoxied onto the top of the module, and the metal there is pretty thin! Also, older versions seem to have the light engine part simply pressed into the reflector, while the new ones are threaded in. I wonder if there were any circuitry changes between the versions?

The $20 module seems like a bargain... but it looks exactly like the $50 Litemania version that was a dissapointment because of its fit (reflector too long), and problems with wlectrical contact (someone decided to save 2 cents by omitting the negative contact spring). I'm not a fan of the beam it produces, either. I figured that for my other SF, I'd rather mod something that I know fits well and has a good reflector, hence the G&P 3W mod.

 

[cratz2]

I don't have access to my current draw numbers, but my modded 3W G&P pulls about 900 from 2 primary CR123 cells so I'd think the emitter would be seeing somewhere between 600 and 700... maybe 750 at the most. If it only pulled 600 from the cells, the emitter would only be seeing under 500 assuming 80% effeciency.

Again, I'm just going from memory, but I think I measured 900mA from primary cells and about 750mA from 2 R123 cells.

 

[bfg9000]

Yes, that's correct, but the post illustrates the "regulation" of the module is such that the emitter won't always receive 600mA@Vf depending on battery used. For example with a single Li-ion cell it only drew 410mA so considering efficiency losses 600mA@Vf to the emitter is just not possible.

I've used two RCR123 [email protected] in each of my 3W modules since I got them and they haven't blown; not sure why the 1W did unless it is different somehow (but then we have heard of dead 3W modules so maybe it was just bad).

I usually expect a cheap&cheerful $20 (or even a $16.99) hobbyist part may need a little work

I mean I expect at the least to be changing to better bins as they become available.

 

[Owen]

Edit: Oh and Owen, here's how to fit the DB1000 into a G&P module.

Thanks very much. That's a bit more involved that I had envisioned!

 

[KDOG3]

Care to guess what the emitter in the 3W will be seeing off that 17670? I'm hoping the 1W will run at full power....

Should I attempt to run the 3W from the protected 3.7V RCRs?

 

[VF1Jskull1]

I see that lighthound has the AW 17670 battery but there are two chargers. Theres a DSD charger, and an Ultrafire version. Anyone want to suggest the best setup?

Get the Ultrafire charger.... I have the DSD charger and the most my Li-Ions got to was 3.85-3.9 volts.... The Ultrafire takes my Li-Ions all the way to 4.2 volts...

I have:
2 x 17500 (for my SL TL-3)
2 x 18500 (for my WE 9DX-Raider)
2 x 18650 (sitting on standby-was used in Huntlight FT-01, WE M90X w/ LF EO-9L and HO-9L LA's)

3 x 18650 (newest ones, for my M90-13V conversion from M90X)

All Li-Ions from AW.... Oh yeah, I have 2 protected 3.6V RCR123A that I now have in my FT-01 were from Lighthound but pretty sure were originally from AW...

The Ultrafire will accomodate them all (rcr123a with spacers)....

 

[cratz2]

As I said, I've used both 2x123, 3x123, 1x17670, 2xR123 and 2x17500 cells on my modded G&P. As far as I know, the only thing modded was the emitter to something whiter and a lower Vf. I'm pretty sure it's a TW0H.

If run for 5 minutes or so, in a Vital Gear body, it gets hotter on 2xR123 or 2x14500 cells than it does on 3x123 cells.

I have the DSD charger. After AW pointed out that it's a dumb super dumb charger, I just charge one cell at a time to ensure each cell gets the maximum possible charge out of the DSD. I haven't measured any cells in quite some time but I'm pretty sure I was getting in the 4.0x to 4.1x range. I never saw a 4.2 at all.

I have 6 18650s, 4 17500, 5 14500s, 2 10440s and probably two dozen various R123s. The 17500s see the most charges because they are used in my TL3 which goes through them in 1 hour. I use R123s in many various lights, particularly my HDS EDC light and for that, I use 5 R123s specific to that light and I don't use them in any other lights.

If I were to order a new charger, I'd definately go for the Ultrafire vs the DSD.

 

[KDOG3]

Thanks for the input everybody. As I stated above, 2X17670s' and the Ultrafire charger on the way!

I'm going to use the 3W drop in ONLY in a C2-HA thats' on the way as we speak, the 1W will go in my G2. I'm just hoping the 3W drop in will run at full spec on the 17670 or I me tempted to try the 2 RCR123s'. I REALLY hope the 1W will run at spec on the 17670's since thats' really what I bought them for...

 

[c0t0d0s0]

I just tried running a Seoule'd G&P 3W off 2 protected 3.7V RCR123's. Not really happy with the resullts...

First of all, when powered by 2 rechargeables, this thing gets marginally brighter, but runs a lot hotter - almost too hot to comfortably hold it in my hand. Second of all, I only got 45 minutes of runtime out of it before the protection kicked in. To put that into perspective, the same AW rechargeables are able to power the Litemania Cree module for 1:15, and my own Surefire Lego with Downboy 700 and SSC P4 for 1:25.

It appears that the regulation circuitry inside the G&P 3W is not very efficient... or simply not designed for 3 primaries/2 li-ions in the first place.

It runs great on a single 18650 though. A little bit dimmer, a lot cooler, and with lots of runtime. 4 hours into the test and still kicking! I imagine it would run on a 17670 just fine.

 

[KDOG3]

Hmmm thanks for the input. In my ol' eyeball test, the 3W was no brighter than the 1W drop in - even after I Seouled them both. I don't know why, but thats the way they are. I think the 1W is a better deal when putting a Seoul in them.

 

[c0t0d0s0]

Hmm interesting. Any difference in runtime? Any heat issues - especially in the G2?

 

[KDOG3]

Well supposedly the 1W has 6hrs runtime(mfg. claim) and the 3W has a 2hr runtime according to FLR.com I suspect the 1W actually gets 3-ish hours peak with the rest diminishing. But since the output difference is negligible, is why I say the 1W better for the money. With a Seoul it kicks some serious bootay.