ebow86
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ok, I give up searching. Why do they call it angry blue? Where does that originate from? My surefire A2 and 6P LED have the angry blue tint, A2 very much so, but I don't understand, what's angry about it?
"I'm angry I paid this much for blue.."
an LED can be blue, as a lot of cool white LED's are, especially Nichia GS and the like. They can be blue or purple, but I think "angry blue" is a different phenomena. I guess it can be divided into two groups
1.) What I understand, it is when you overdrive an LED or it runs too hot, the angry part seems to be how harsh the blue is, and how much damage you are potentially doing to the LED.
2.) Bad tint bin, just unpleasant to look at and can make even expensive lights look cheap and nasty.
Not sure, but think that touches on it.
Anyone know when and who was the first to use this term?
We have a winner! I am just going on memory here but I believe the term first gained usage because of the SSC P4. It was/is infamous for turning "angry blue" fairly easily under any real overdrive. The Lumileds and Crees although capable of producing this effect took much more abuse to illicit this behavior.Like previously mentioned by a couple of people in this thread,"angry blue" is a common term (on CPF anyway :grin2:) for thermal runaway. This basically means that the emitter is over heating, and if it's not shut down within a matter of seconds, the emitter will go from angry blue to :poof:, complete darkness. The emitter will tint shift to extremely blue when this is happening, and the longer you keep powering the emitter, the bluer the tint shift. The :poof: part created the "angry" part, and the extreme tint shift to blue created the "blue" part.
Thermal runaway can happen if an emitter isn't heatsinked properly or if it's extremely overdriven, or a combination of the two. If the emitter is being directly driven off of the battery with no current limiting, it's a vicious cycle once thermal runaway starts. The emitter starts to overheat, the voltage forward lowers, current delivered to the emitter increases, the emitters gets even hotter, voltage forward drops even further, current increases more etc., etc. until :poof:. This happened to me with an SST-90 emitter so you might say I learned the hard way :candle:. The tint started shifting to "angry blue", and at the time I didn't know to watch out for that, but in less than 8 to 10 seconds I had an emitter that was no longer in working order. For about three days, I was doing this - :sick:....:sick2:........:green:......:fail:.......:mecry:........:drunk:.........:mecry::mecry:.......:fail:.........:mecry:......:mecry:. Fortunately I was able to pull out of my deep depression, and then I ordered a replacement SST-90. When you fall you've got to get back up, right? :thumbsup:
So if you ever see an emitter start to shift to an extremely blue tint, it would be in your (and the emitters) best interest if you backed out of the throttle and shut it down immediately, if not sooner :D. Maybe this will give a better understanding of the term "angry blue".
I am just going on memory here but I believe the term first gained usage because of the SSC P4.
My M60 is angry blue to some people.
My Quarks are sickly green to some people.
I'm glad I'm not those people.