What is the brightest 2AA flashlight?

mikekoz

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Hello! Have not posted in a while but after buying a few 1AA lights over the past few months, I thought I would look for a new 2AA! I have not bought much AA lights in a while as I mainly carry smaller single 18650 ones, but I know technology on these things changes every now and then so thought I would look into a new 2AA light! Just as the title states, I want the brightest 2AA light I can find. It is OK it will also take a 14500 but what I want is one that will mainly be using 2 NIMH cells. Right now the brightest I have is a Manker T02. It puts out 800 lumens using 2 NIMH cells but mine has a parasitic drain and if the light is untouched (off!) for a few weeks, it dies. There is a lockout feature on it, but that does no good. Any help would be appreciated!!:grin2:
 

letschat7

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Well Streamlight Jr is a 2 x AA flashlight. Sure you could run some Nimh cells in it and I did with GP rechargables however Streamlight sold a rechargable set meant for NiCads which is what I use now in it. It may be as bright as a two D flashlight according to a user here.

You said any help is appreciated so I think you should go for one of these lights. Forty year old metal flashlights are a lot of fun.
 

mikekoz

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Well Streamlight Jr is a 2 x AA flashlight. Sure you could run some Nimh cells in it and I did with GP rechargables however Streamlight sold a rechargable set meant for NiCads which is what I use now in it. It may be as bright as a two D flashlight according to a user here.

You said any help is appreciated so I think you should go for one of these lights. Forty year old metal flashlights are a lot of fun.

lol....I think you are off your meds! ;):ROFLMAO: Anyhow, I already have a Streamlight 2AA light and it may be a SL Jr. It is probably 15 years old also and it in a box somewhere with my other antique lights! I am looking for one that is more in line with the current times, you know, 2024!! :D
 

thermal guy

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Wow that thing will do 800 with regular AA's? That's pretty impressive!
 

kerneldrop

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800 lumens off 3v of battery is just not happening.

It may be advertised as 800 but it's probably closer to 400


But to answer your question: a 2x14500 with a FET driver and a 7070 foot print LED will be the brightest possible. I suppose technically a SBT90.2 which is a 9090 footprint would be brightest but you'll have to modify a reflector to fit a 9mm LED.
 
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mikekoz

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Oh mine is probably older than I am and most certainly is older than CPF and was made in Streamlight's old factory.
That is pretty cool! The oldest one I have is a Brinkman incan of some sorts. I know I have it somewhere and now I am going to have to find it!! lol
 

mikekoz

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Wow that thing will do 800 with regular AA's? That's pretty impressive!
That is what Manker claims. They also say it puts out 1600 lumens when using 2 14500's. I have no way of measuring it but have compared it to some of my 18650 lights that claim around the same brightness and it is at least very close to both claims!
 

mikekoz

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800 lumens off 3v of battery is just not happening.

It may be advertised as 800 but it's probably closer to 400


But to answer your question: a 2x14500 with a FET driver and a 7070 foot print LED will be the brightest possible. I suppose technically a SBT90.2 which is a 9090 footprint would be brightest but you'll have to modify a reflector to fit a 9mm LED.
I wish I had a way of measuring it, but it is the brightest 2AA light I own. It is noticeably brighter than any other one I have!!
 

kerneldrop

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I wish I had a way of measuring it, but it is the brightest 2AA light I own. It is noticeably brighter than any other one I have!!

Other than building your own....this light will give you the brightest that I'm aware of:


If you want to take it further... get that flashlight and swap it out for this driver and send lumens until the light turns blow and catches on fire
 

cave dave

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Most of the current forum members would likely care more about overall quality, beam tint and high color rendering index (CRI) over the "brightest".
Nowadays people that care about brightest usually aren't selecting a large 2xAA light when they could get brighter in a smaller form factor with a 18650 or 21700 light.
Anyway if you want something bright the Convoy T4 will run on 2x NiMh and 2xLiIon. The Nichia 519a is the latest greatest popular emitter for a neutral tint with high CRI, but if you all you care about is "bright" pick the SST-20 at 6500k. The LH351D might put out more lumens but the SST-20 will be throwier. Convoy claims 1000lm with 2xLiIon. I have no idea if this is the brightest 2xAA, but I think its up there. I have one like in the review below and have only run eneloops.

Here is a review of the 519a version.

Can be found at the Convoy Store on AliExpress, be prepared to wait a few weeks for shipping from China. (Or more with Chinese New Year) Get yourself the bolt on clip at the same time. Pick up a couple single AA Convoy T3 in different tints, while you are there. They are awesome for the price, and its a great way to try different emitters. I'd recommend at least trying 519A @ 4500k to experience what a great tint can do outdoors. I hate shopping at AliExpress because there are a dozen different stores all selling Convoys of various different flavors, with different prices and different combos and probably different customer service experiences. Somebody named Simon is supposedly great to work with but I'm not sure which one he is at.
 

Guitar Guy

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I can give a 2 thumbs up for that Convoy T4. I just received mine yesterday, and was planning on making a post after I take some beam shot comparisons with other lights. I got the titanium with the Nichia 519a - 4500K. I'm using Li-ion 14500 cells, and it is great. It's rated for 800 lumens with the 14500s. I don't have a way to measure, but it's definitely bright, and the tint is perfect.

I have mostly cool tint lights, and a few of the warmer / neutral ones that I have are a bit yellowish. This is right in between, what I would call a true neutral. Looks great outside. I guess I'd describe it as what others call rosey. Lights up the church across the street that is 100 yards away. The titanium model is a bit pricey, but the standard version I would say is a great bang for the buck flashlight. I like it so much that I'm going to order a T3 titanium also.

I'd definitely suggest the 14500 cells for a light of this type, for brightness and runtime, especially if you're going to run it on the higher levels.

The programming options are very versatile, but, on the webpages where is says click 10 times to go into programming mode - it is actually 20 times.

Here's the one I got, but it's not where I ordered it from. It shows a wider variety of emitter color options than the link above.

 
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vicv

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800 lumens off 3v of battery is just not happening.

It may be advertised as 800 but it's probably closer to 400


But to answer your question: a 2x14500 with a FET driver and a 7070 foot print LED will be the brightest possible. I suppose technically a SBT90.2 which is a 9090 footprint would be brightest but you'll have to modify a reflector to fit a 9mm LED.
I don't know his light but that's not impossible. With good nimh and a boost driver it's actually easy. I have a light which will output 1950 measured lumens from 3.0v. This isn't 2010. I don't know zebralight models well, but there was a single AA light which produced 500 lumens.
 

kerneldrop

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I don't know his light but that's not impossible. With good nimh and a boost driver it's actually easy. I have a light which will output 1950 measured lumens from 3.0v. This isn't 2010. I don't know zebralight models well, but there was a single AA light which produced 500 lumens.

We still cannot create energy in 2024.
The formula Watts = Amps x Volts still holds true today.
Boost drivers work by increasing the draw...they cannot create energy.
Lumens is energy converted into light.
Heat is energy not converted into light.
LEDs are designed to produce x lumens based on x watts.
LED datasheets will give you the data used to calculate the lumen output based on watts.

AA batteries cannot pump out a lot of current...
1950 lumens from a 3.0 volt battery would require a current discharge rate that far exceeds what a CR123 is capable of.
HDS limits their C123 lights to about 300 lumens because that's about what 1.5amps discharge rate safely gets you from a 3 volt battery.
 

vicv

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We still cannot create energy in 2024.
The formula Watts = Amps x Volts still holds true today.
Boost drivers work by increasing the draw...they cannot create energy.
Lumens is energy converted into light.
Heat is energy not converted into light.
LEDs are designed to produce x lumens based on x watts.
LED datasheets will give you the data used to calculate the lumen output based on watts.

AA batteries cannot pump out a lot of current...
1950 lumens from a 3.0 volt battery would require a current discharge rate that far exceeds what a CR123 is capable of.
HDS limits their C123 lights to about 300 lumens because that's about what 1.5amps discharge rate safely gets you from a 3 volt battery.
Yes, I am fully aware how energy works. I'm not breaking the laws of physics here. But LEDs and drivers have gotten better. The light I was referring to is using a lithium ion. But those do actually drop below 3.7 V. Sometimes as low as 3 V. And I measured my light With a cell at 3 V. It requires about 9 A. Which two eneloop in series can do. I never said anything about a CR123a. And the lighting question, there are more efficient LEDs than the one I'm using. So the current can be even less. Now I am not saying that we can expect 1950 lm out of two AA's. But you were talking about 800 lm. Which is quite a bit less. If you had a good boost driver and an XHP 70.3 you could easily make 800 lm with two eneloops

Oh, and a CR 123A cell will only hold about 2.4 V under a 1.5 amp load. Not 3 V. At no time does a CR 123 a output 3 V unless if it was a remote control or something
 
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