What LED module will survive in G2?

techwg

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Unless they break.. i would love a Surefire 6P with a dropin, but i would really want the dropin to be a good enough quality to withstand some abuse, and have a bright enough led with contant output. maybe 60 lumens would do me
 

pbs357

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I've gone 100% LED too, including for my G2 and G2Z and had this same dilemma. So I bought a few aluminum bezels to aid in heatsinking (hey SF does it, right?). You can get them in B/S/T for about $20, but I recently got an older pyrex 6p bezel for $5! This way you can use whatver high output module you want without worrying about having an LED burn up on you.
 

LukeA

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Unless they break.. i would love a Surefire 6P with a dropin, but i would really want the dropin to be a good enough quality to withstand some abuse, and have a bright enough led with contant output. maybe 60 lumens would do me

Then I can assume you have never handled a 6090. They're very well put together and the board doesn't have an inductor coil to break.
 

precisionworks

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The Malkoff drop in is a fantastic product. Yes you pay more but the quality difference is amazing...no comparson.
The Malkoff is a very high qulaity unit. Customer service is second to none.
+1

Email response is FAST, customer satisfaction is paramount.

The beam characteristics of the P60L are nice, very smooth and blending hot spot.
My only complaint on the P60L, and others have mentioned this also, is that the color temp tends to run cool to very cool. Of all the LED lights I own, the P60L is the coolest. Conversely, the Malkoff M60 & the M60LL are the warmest. The P60L is a good drop in, but it doesn't compare to the Malkoff's. At $60 for the Malkoff and $39 for the P60L, the Malkoff is a better value, IMHO.
 

knightrider

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Does the beam profile on the Malkoff blend nicely from hot-spot to flood? It's just that I'm so impressed with the P60L beam profile - it reminds of (dare I say it?) a McGizmo setup like the PDIII or 27LT.

I'm all for really bright, but I love a nice beam that has smoothness to it. For this reason my L1 is not so great - very bright - but beam isn't very smooth at all. I hate rings and distortions. Some may say "don't white wall hunt" to which I don't, but I use lights in closer situations mostly so a ringy beam pattern doesn't do it for me.

The other qualities of the P60L hold it together - I'm not too concerned with the color of a led as long as it's not hideous - green (like my L2) or purple-like, etc. My P60L is very white.
 

generic808

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Then I can assume you have never handled a 6090. They're very well put together and the board doesn't have an inductor coil to break.

So true. People make assumptions based on cost without ever owning one themselves. Like I've said, I have 3 of these and all work just as good as the day I received them. And I'm pretty sure they'll keep continuing to work for a very long time. Very well built product considering the price.
 

zven

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Does the beam profile on the Malkoff blend nicely from hot-spot to flood? It's just that I'm so impressed with the P60L beam profile - it reminds of (dare I say it?) a McGizmo setup like the PDIII or 27LT.

The blend on the Malkoff from hotspot to flood is good, but, at least on mine, it doesn't measure up to SF's P60L. I would say there's a similar amount of ringy-ness on my Malkoff as on my L1 CREE (though output, hotspot size, etc. are definitely different). Actually, my M60 has a slight dark spot at the center of the hotspot, which for white-wall use is kind of bothersome. I haven't yet had a chance to test if it disappears at greater distances, but I expect it won't bother me in real use.

But if beam smoothness is more important to you than output or tint, then I don't think I'd recommend the Malkoff. For output and tint, however (or use with an FM34 diffuser, for that matter), the Malkoff beats the pants off the P60L.
 

knightrider

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Thanks for the info zven, I appreciate it. Will have to get a Malkoff someday to try out for myself. Sounds like it has some great features/qualities.
 

dmz

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How long can you leave a G2L with a DX 4068 (SSc) on before it is too hot to hold?

Can a G2L handle a DX Cree R2?
 

nbp

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I've had no problems with this drop in in my G2:

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3513

I've turned it on while just sitting on my desk for 5-6 minutes and it was fine. Just slightly warm. This light get's used in short bursts, rarely over 1 minute, so it will be fine.


Anyone else have experience with this dropin? I'd rather buy from lighthound than DX or KD...so if this one works well, I'd consider it for my 6PD and/or G2.
 

Wattnot

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According to WadeF and others, TEN minutes is the limit for a full power LED drop-in for the G2 with the Nitrolon head. After that the module will start to hurt itself from the heat generated. Some modules may show a decrease in output as the damage is occurring.

If you're good about not leaving it on continuously, or if you're an Alaskan dog sledder (or have other forms of active cooling) then you should be fine. That drop-in from Lighthound draws even more current than the ones from DX so I would expect even more heat.

There are so many threads on this subject . . . I like the G2 also but I'm done trying to put the 10 pounds of @#$# in this 5 pound light. :crackup:

You can still get that deal from Cabelas where you get a 1/2 way decent 6P clone that is made of metal and can host any P60 drop-in, AND a knife, all for $25 shipped.
 

Yoda4561

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How long can you leave a G2L with a DX 4068 (SSc) on before it is too hot to hold?

Can a G2L handle a DX Cree R2?

It will never get too hot to hold, as the nitrolon body doesn't transfer heat that well. As long as you keep on-time to under 5 minutes and give the light 5-10 minutes to cool between use you shouldn't have any trouble.
 
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