The Romisen RC-F4 works well on a 17670. I don't know if the driver runs in regulation with it or not, but it works great. Due to varying tolerances, some examples will not accept the 17670 until bored out with, I believe, a 11/16's drill bit. Some accept unprotected 17670's when you get them, it's just the luck of the draw. All have to be reamed a little to fit AW's protected 17670's.
The RC-F4 puts out about 125-135 lumen according to tests and makes a good walking light. On a AW protected 17670 I get about 2 hours and 15-20 minutes of light before it starts dimming.
The current draw is about 600 ma, it doesn't matter whether one uses 2 RCR's or one. I don't notice that it's much brighter on 2, though it is brighter.
There was some talk by Olight that the new tactical versions of the Olight T20 Q5 would be engineered to use the 17670 along with the standard CR123 and RCR123's, but I don't know if that occurred, they're new and haven't been tested. MattK at Batteryjunction.com could enlighten you on that.
One reviewer reports that the Solarforce T-7 runs well on a unprotected 17670, he could not fit a protected one in the light.
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3357
Hope that helps.
It's pretty expensive to engineer a light with both boost and buck drivers, most lights that run well on 3.7 volts are either engineered that way or it's an accident. Fortunately a lot of LED lights that are designed to run on 6-8 volts will run in direct drive on 3.7 volts, but it's not regulated.