what will and won't work

[madtom]

Let me start by saying I don't know anything about lights or batteries.

What I'm trying to do is u/w video in very, very clear and shallow water. Never more than 4' and only rarely over 2' deep. So I don't need anything rated for depth.

What I do need is to really light up a spot about 2 foot across from a distance of 3 to 6 feet away. I will be shooting small fish with lots of blues, greens and reds.

How little light (and money) can I get away with? Here are the options I'm exploring Please tell me which will and won't work. I will never, ever use this light for anything other than what I've already describe.

My guess is the first 3 options absolutely won't work as nobody is already doing it.

1. submersible pond light (12v, 20 watt mr16 bulb) with wire running to battery trolling motor battery on shore. 30$

2. Stanly rechargeable spotlight (50w H3 bulb, 580 lumens) in pvc housing, can hook up direct to trolling motor battery if needed. $20

3. Mag light in a pvc housing. $20

4. Make a real canister light.

Thanks so much

 

[Packhorse]

They will all work. But its a question of how well.

Whats your budget?

 

[madtom]

Budget? I'm not sure how to answer.

I guess my budget is "enough to get what I need, but not enough to get more than I need". Again, this will only be used in very clear and shallow water.

I'm making videos for middle school presentations.

 

[Codiak]

Budget? I'm not sure how to answer.

I guess my budget is "enough to get what I need, but not enough to get more than I need". Again, this will only be used in very clear and shallow water.

I'm making videos for middle school presentations.

You don't mention duration of expected submersion.

But an off the shelf Mag lite might do the job... at worst you would need a couple thicker O-Rings for the head and battery compartment.

 

[madtom]

Thanks for the comments.

My projects typically begin with a simple idea and the purchase of a few parts. Then a few more..... and a few more.....

Eventually they evolve into something that sometimes works, but not always cheaper and easier than just buying it in the first place.

This time I am hoping to avoid that.

I'm going to experiment with the submersible pond light hooked to a 12v battery.

 

[Codiak]

DIY waterproof lighting is one of those that can very quickly cost more that purchasing outright.

Before buying anything have you tested your camera at that depth with ambient light?

A depth of 4 feet in clear water most likey won't require additional light for daytime applications. Night time could be surface lit.


If you have a maglite just through it in the water and see what happens... worst case you replace a couple batteries. ORings are <50cents at Westlake hardware stores.

 

[Packhorse]

I guess my budget is "enough to get what I need, but not enough to get more than I need".

OK Let me put it a different way.
It will cost to make a really good video light.
How good do you want it?

Is this for night time or day time?

If day time you are going to need something pretty powerful to beat the natural light that is already there.

What I would suggest is a Maglite with the switch sealed in some way. A bit of bicycle inner tube stretched over it and the sealed with silicon may work. But only at shallow depths.

Put the LEDs as far forward as you can in the head. Dont bother with any reflector. Put in as many LEDs as you can depending on your light requirements and run time vs battery options.

Alternatively cut the switch section out and glue the remaining handle into the head. Put a cable gland in the tail cap and run a separate cannister or if possible a long extension lead and run it off a 12v battery on the boat or in a float. Running groups of 3 serial LEDs with this option will mean you can just use resistors to get the correct current. Perhaps use 3 SST-50's.

 

[Linger]

For video incan may be better then led's (led's have poor colour rendering).

I don't know why you'd want to use a mag light in pvc - mag's suck as lights, they are only useful as thick bodies in which better lights are assembled. The easiest mod is to get an MR11 or MR16 halogen light (sealed, comes with reflector as part of the unit) and put it into the empty m@lightbezel. You need a ceramic bulb base (available Homedepot or online) or for extreme cheapness directly solder leads to each respective lamp prong. run the cord from the lamp out of the light, fill the rest with silocone caulking. on the surface you have a switch and power supply

If you have a stock light that is sealed (doesn't require outside cooloing), you could waterproof it with a lot of clear silicone. This sounds like a 0 risk project - if you notice some water ingress you can lift it out of the water and repair

If depth is so shallow, do you need the light to be in the water at all? A peice of glass with a flat bottom (a very large flat-bottomed bowl?) that sits on the surface will eliminate refraction as it enters the water - you have a large light above the water that shines clearly down onto your subjects.

**Packhorse is great. But I think he forgot about your minimal budget - the 3 sst-50's he mentioned cost $60-120 alone

 

[madtom]

Thanks for the input.

I will take Lingers advice.
If I use a Maglight body will the heat from the higher powered MR16 bulb melt the lexan lens?
If the Maglight housing was full of silicone, would it absorb heat from the back of the bulb.

If these are not problem areas, then this is definately the route I'll go.

I tried a 20w submersible light and it is bright enough.

Oh yeah, this is for filming at night.

Looking forward to hearing more input. Thanks again.

 

[Packhorse]

Why would you want to fill it with silicone?

A 20w MR16 halogen will not give you a smooth beam. I also think it will be way too yellow. But it will be cheap.

 

[Codiak]

Why would you want to fill it with silicone?
QUOTE]

Over engineering....

Maglite at 4 feet isn't likely to leak.

 

[350xfire]

3 P7's for about $40???

 

[Packhorse]

Or MC-E's which in my experience offer better colour.

 

[350xfire]

Or MC-E's which in my experience offer better colour.

Agree!