koala
Flashlight Enthusiast
Please note that this post may sound like an advertisement because it is written by a Hakko fanboy .
I see questions like "Which soldering iron to buy?" pops up every now and then. If you are looking for a decent and near affordable soldering system I recommend the Hakko 936. There are a few advantages of Hakko, they have a large number of authorized dealers around the world and if any single part fail, ie, nut, wire, sleeve, handle piece, ceramic heater, tips and etc you can get them easily and at reasonable price. So you can keep the 936 up and running with many spare parts.
Another feature of the 936 is the temperature control knob and it's ability to keep the temperature constant. It has a temperature sensor built into
the tip of its' ceramic heater, close to the tip. The tip temperature can be adjusted via the control knob and the heating temperature does not depend on the soldering tip.
The Hakko 936 is the most cloned/copied/faked unit ever. Just google for "936 soldering" and you will find brands like aoyue 936, kada 936, quick 936, best 936, sunkko 936, ct-936, gaoyue 936, madell 936 and more. So you see, the Hakko 936 is very awesome that's why it has many brothers.
The company where I work is cheep, the person who is involved with sourcing tools prefer to spend as little as possible. When I asked for a Hakko 936, I was equipped with Clone A, couple of months later it broke so a Clone B, then followed by 2x Clone C. That's a timespan of 2 years. Three of these units are different clones. I can see the difference in quality compared to the 3 years old Hakko936 at home. They have the same issue, the ceramic heater broke. They can be fix it by swapping the ceramic heater but I refuse to do so.
I am sure Hakko is aware of these clones, so have priced the Hakko 936 pretty competitive. Still it is $20-$30 more than the bestest clone. Open up the station and compare the control board, that's where you spend your $20-$30. That's also the reason why I prefer not to fix the clones.
So what's the real difference between the $1 clone ceramic heater and the $8 Hakko ceramic heater? I took some pictures of the so called $1 ceramic heaters... Btw they are really $1 in bulk of 20pcs.
Spot the difference, Real vs Fake
Hakko A1321 ceramic heater vs $1 Clone Ceramic Heater
3 different types of $1 Clone Ceramic Heater unsleeved
Bahahahah nichrome winding! ceramic heater my sssss. FAKE. Hence $1.
They fine, they work quite well when new but quickly become weak after few hours of usage.
Made in Japan Hakko Ceramic Heater.
A real A1321 ceramic heater is a thin translucent ceramic tube.
The heater metal is printed on the insides of the tube. Two words.. VERY COOL. There's no sleeve to come off while changing tips. It won't break easily, like the clones. It will heat up to 350C in 7 seconds when new. I dare say it will out last any standalone nichrome wire iron.
The temperature sensor pinouts works different from the clones. The sensor output of the clones is polarized contrary to the manual. And it has different resistance at same temperature. So don't waste your money try upgrading clone ceramic heater.
This is just a part about the heater. There are other differences such as the flexibility of the cord, fit and finish and etc. So you still want to buy clones/look alike? I hope this post helps you with your choice.
Vincent.
I see questions like "Which soldering iron to buy?" pops up every now and then. If you are looking for a decent and near affordable soldering system I recommend the Hakko 936. There are a few advantages of Hakko, they have a large number of authorized dealers around the world and if any single part fail, ie, nut, wire, sleeve, handle piece, ceramic heater, tips and etc you can get them easily and at reasonable price. So you can keep the 936 up and running with many spare parts.
Another feature of the 936 is the temperature control knob and it's ability to keep the temperature constant. It has a temperature sensor built into
the tip of its' ceramic heater, close to the tip. The tip temperature can be adjusted via the control knob and the heating temperature does not depend on the soldering tip.
The Hakko 936 is the most cloned/copied/faked unit ever. Just google for "936 soldering" and you will find brands like aoyue 936, kada 936, quick 936, best 936, sunkko 936, ct-936, gaoyue 936, madell 936 and more. So you see, the Hakko 936 is very awesome that's why it has many brothers.
The company where I work is cheep, the person who is involved with sourcing tools prefer to spend as little as possible. When I asked for a Hakko 936, I was equipped with Clone A, couple of months later it broke so a Clone B, then followed by 2x Clone C. That's a timespan of 2 years. Three of these units are different clones. I can see the difference in quality compared to the 3 years old Hakko936 at home. They have the same issue, the ceramic heater broke. They can be fix it by swapping the ceramic heater but I refuse to do so.
I am sure Hakko is aware of these clones, so have priced the Hakko 936 pretty competitive. Still it is $20-$30 more than the bestest clone. Open up the station and compare the control board, that's where you spend your $20-$30. That's also the reason why I prefer not to fix the clones.
So what's the real difference between the $1 clone ceramic heater and the $8 Hakko ceramic heater? I took some pictures of the so called $1 ceramic heaters... Btw they are really $1 in bulk of 20pcs.
Spot the difference, Real vs Fake
Hakko A1321 ceramic heater vs $1 Clone Ceramic Heater
3 different types of $1 Clone Ceramic Heater unsleeved
Bahahahah nichrome winding! ceramic heater my sssss. FAKE. Hence $1.
They fine, they work quite well when new but quickly become weak after few hours of usage.
Made in Japan Hakko Ceramic Heater.
A real A1321 ceramic heater is a thin translucent ceramic tube.
The heater metal is printed on the insides of the tube. Two words.. VERY COOL. There's no sleeve to come off while changing tips. It won't break easily, like the clones. It will heat up to 350C in 7 seconds when new. I dare say it will out last any standalone nichrome wire iron.
The temperature sensor pinouts works different from the clones. The sensor output of the clones is polarized contrary to the manual. And it has different resistance at same temperature. So don't waste your money try upgrading clone ceramic heater.
This is just a part about the heater. There are other differences such as the flexibility of the cord, fit and finish and etc. So you still want to buy clones/look alike? I hope this post helps you with your choice.
Vincent.
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