Whats the most durable light?

carrot

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The Ra Twisty is stupidly durable. So are the twisty switch Surefires. McGizmo designs aren't potted, but otherwise ridiculously durable. Arc-AAA's are potted, and will handle any amount of abuse (did you see the one where an Arc was LAUNCHED out of a cannon-like thing into a tree?)

When I hike the AT (~5-6 months of hiking) I will be carrying a McLux PD, Arc-AAA, and Surefire Saint. Maybe a Ra or Novatac too.
 

Juggernaut

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Ra Twisty is the strongest, most durable light... in existence today.

People keep saying this, I've seen abuse test, but honestly what makes it so much better then anything else? I feel like people say it most of the time because they are just repeating what others have said. I'm not saying it isn't a super tough light. But it might not be the toughest, and others could be just as strong. Does the Ra have electronics? Yes, are they Fully potted? Yes, but any electronics potted, epoxied, made from Hardened EMP proof software can still fail:eek:. If you want maximum strength you have to go as simple as possible. Peak's multi 5mm LED lights with no variable outputs made from solid stainless steel and brass are going to me exceedingly more robust then a RA. Also what about the Fenix TK40? In that abuse test the light never failed. I've never seen the RA do anything more intense then what it withstood. Even if it did, who will ever abuse their light that much in use? How often do you fall 30 feet 20 times, dive 100 feet underwater, get ran over, set on fire, or get dragged behind a car:crackup::poke:;)? If your duty light survived any of these things in the line of work you would probably retire it anyways just to be safe. Honesty there are so many super strong lights out there it's ridicules. How about Electrolumens? Has anyone done test on them:popcorn:? His lights often don't even have resistors in them. They have no electronics to break and the entire body and switches are often made form ¼ or thicker aluminum! His lights could literally survive close detonations of nuclear bombs! In fact the LED would be the weakest point in the light and would probably die form vibrations and shock before the bodies integrity gave out:faint:.

I'm not saying every light on CPF is indestructible "most miscellaneous-fires cant survive being dropped from waist height:whistle:", but there is other options out there;).
 

jahxman

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I'm gonna have to vote for the Electrolumens EDC-MCE - quarter inch thick aluminum tube walls, twisty interface, direct drive, no electronics other than the LED itself, and just built like a tank in every way.

That said, I would also bring some AAA lights along, and a headlamp or two. One single light is never the most reliable light, bring backups and backups for the backups.
 

Outdoors Fanatic

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If you were to go on an outdoor trip, for several weeks, where your light would probably get wet regularly, be dropped several times, but it was essential that it continued to work,

im guessing potted electronics and lots of epoxy but

what light would you take?

whats the toughest light you know of?
A SureFire C2-HA, 'nuff said!
 

uplite

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EMP? Nuclear bombs? :eek:

I try to never camp on a weapons range. :) OK...actually...I don't have to try. You have to work pretty hard to get there. ;)

I do hike & camp frequently in mountainous river valleys. And I can tell ya...if you drop your light off a 100+ foot ledge, or into a 1000+ cfs flow, it doesn't matter how "durable" it is.

Bring two lights.

FWIW, I have dropped my Quark 123 from ~4 feet up onto river stones, and it just chipped a little bit of anodize from the bezel. But you never know. I dropped a Petzl Zipka+ many times, and then one time it hit the ground in just the wrong way and cracked the case. Luck of the draw.

Bring two lights.

A flood headlamp & a pocket thrower make a good combo, even for ultralight backpacking. That covers all the likely uses, plus you have a backup light. :thumbsup:

Or you can look for a $100+ sooper-indestructible light. :laughing:

-Jeff
 

aceo07

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I'd take my HDS EDC U60. It's sturdy, I know that much. With all the output levels, it would be able to last for days on a single battery. Also serve as SOS beacon.

I'd also take an AA powered light, no idea which, but something that can take a common/cheap battery.
 

gswitter

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I'm gonna have to vote for the Electrolumens EDC-MCE - quarter inch thick aluminum tube walls, twisty interface, direct drive, no electronics other than the LED itself, and just built like a tank in every way.
If the switch is anything like EL's other momentary twisties, I'd question the water resistance.
 

sabre7

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If I was, as the OP states, (and have gone on) going on an outdoor trip for SEVERAL WEEKS, where the light would be dropped and wet, but still NEEDS TO WORK, then most people I know would rather spend $100 and be a little poorer but have a working light for their whole trip than have $80 in their pocket and be sitting in the dark, unable to deal with shelter or food because of lack of light, getting wet and cold saying "Whew...glad I went the cheap route."

If that were the case, you could also buy several less expensive lights that have also been proven reliable instead of one expensive light and then be sitting in the dark, unable to deal with shelter or food because of lack of light, getting wet and cold saying "Whew...shame I spent all my money on only one flashlight that is now lost at the bottom of the ravine/river/lake/ocean."
 

jimmy1970

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Most lights out there will survive getting wet and a few drops. However, for an extremely tough light that is currently available, the Ra Clicky would be the one I would take. My Surefire C2 HA/Malkoff M60 or Surefire 6P with Malkoff M60 would also get the nod also.

James....:D
 

Narcosynthesis

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I would be tempted to say that pretty much any 'decent' light should do you fine - from around the basic Fenix/Nitecore prices upwards to Surefire and beyond.

I have gone camping many times with a Fenix L1T and Petzl Tikka XP headlight and those two have always done me proud - The headlight for basic camp chores with a decent level floody beam, and the Fenix for jobs like spotting the trail further ahead when walking and so on. If one also goes down I then still have the other available - while the second light may not be the ideal light for the situation, it still allows you to get on with your task.
The Fenix may not be quite as solidly built as a Surefire or RA, but has held up to multiple night left out in the rain, being dragged around in my pocket for the best part of a year constantly and a fair few drops and bashes thanks to accompanying me and being used in many colourful places.

Stick an e01 or LD01 in your bag as a last ditch backup and you should be good.
 

smokelaw1

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If that were the case, you could also buy several less expensive lights that have also been proven reliable instead of one expensive light and then be sitting in the dark, unable to deal with shelter or food because of lack of light, getting wet and cold saying "Whew...shame I spent all my money on only one flashlight that is now lost at the bottom of the ravine/river/lake/ocean."

Excellent point. He did (technically) ask for ONE light recommendation, though. Of course...as a flashaholic, I would go for the more expensive bomproof light AND a backup (or two!!)
 

jblackwood

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McGizmo Lunasol 20. Maybe I don't know enough about it's innards, but shouldn't the Ti stand up to most anything? And the Piston Drive is way more reliable than a traditional clicky. Water ingress? Forget about it! Lots of people take Don's lights diving (I know they're not "advertised" as dive lights).
 
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RobertM

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For me, I'd be bringing my SureFire M2. Simple = durable and reliable. Hard anodized aluminum body, double-o-ring seal, ultra-reliable SF momentary switch, and super thick shock-isolating bezel. IIRC, Size15s did some pretty rough tests of his M2 a while back and was thoroughly impressed by its ruggedness. To go one step further, I'd possible throw a SF P60L in the M2 as well.

-Robert
 

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