Whats the most durable light?

[coyote]

a waterproof lens-less AAA twisty loaded with lithiums:

Mako AAA
Arc AAA
Fenix E01 AAA

(why AAA? because the battery is so light that dropping it is unlikely to cause the weight of the battery to damage the electronics)

 

[fnj]

In addition to the Ra Twisty, already mentioned in glowing terms multiple times, the Muyshondt Nautilus and Aeon are very rugged and reliable twisties, and the Ra Clicky is also exceptionally reliable; maybe just a notch below the best twisties.

Preferably, in each of the above cases, titanium.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

At a campsite, even if you drop a light, it will only hit dirt. There are no multistorey buildings to drop the light from. There is no concrete slab floors to "absorb" the fall.

Looking at the durability as a function of a drop is not the right way to look at it.

- Vikas

 

[Yucca Patrol]

I camp in places that have rocks in addition to dirt. . . . .

 

[Sgt. LED]

At a campsite, even if you drop a light, it will only hit dirt. There are no multistorey buildings to drop the light from. There is no concrete slab floors to "absorb" the fall. Looking at the durability as a function of a drop is not the right way to look at it.

?

Surefire 9P

I've beat the ever lovin' F**k out one bored for 2 18500's and can't kill it.

Near 3 story drops onto a cinderblock, car running it over, driving nails, smashed by bricks, hammerfisted into concrete, slinging it into the wals, taking it into the shower, dropping it at work, took the claw side of a hammer to it in many places. It just keeps going.

I smashed it so bad on the tailcap once I had to smash it cross ways so the tailcap would twist again! It's not uber smooth but it still works and retained it's water resistance.

SOooooooooo You want a tough light? Get a 9P. Bored or stock it'll last.

You might ask what LE was in there for all of this. I don't like the tint but the P60L survived all of the beating of the host and never gave me a hint of trouble. One set of 18500 cells were hopelessly smashed during testing. Previous assaults on a M60 Malkoff were just as positive as the P60L but a bit harder on the bezel.
That said, sh*t happens: Carry a spare or 2!

 

[Woods Walker]

Beat on my G2Z with P60L and it still looks kinda new. Given the bomb proof clicky I can't see much room for fail.

 

[RobertM]

Beat on my G2Z with P60L and it still looks kinda new. Given the bomb proof clicky I can't see much room for fail.

Did you mod your G2Z tailcap with a clicky?

-Robert

 

[BentHeadTX]

The most durable light is two of them!

Now, if I was going camping and habitually would drop my flashlight, it makes me think about switches failing, leaks around the switch, torn tail boots, glass lens breaking, non-potted boards cracking (Fenix, 4Sevens, Olight etc, etc, etc)

I would get a 1AA light, twisty tail for waterproofness and reliability, a head that holds protected 5mm normally driven LEDs, make that multiple 5mm LEDs, no glass lens and single output for minimal electronics. Get the Peak single AA light with 7 snow LEDs with normal output levels and you're done. No switches to fail, no glass lens to break, fully potted electronics and brass battery button so when dropping the light down a mountain, the battery won't crack the board in the head from repeated shock. Loc-tite the tail mount were the ring does for a lanyard and you will be set. Run it on Energizer E2 lithium cells to make it lighter, run longer, won't leak and will operate in very cold temps.

The second light? Pick whatever you want and put some 550 cord through the tail ring and slide it in your holster. If it falls out of your hand, the 550 cord will prevent it from hitting the ground. Yes, I have camped with my sons and the 550 cord trick works great!

 

[woodrow]

Out of all the lights I have ever owned, including 3 Fenix T series and 14 SF lights...I would take the AE Lifelight 3xAA dive light. You can get them now (were $230) now $125 on AE's site and $139 on MattK's site...when they get them back in stock. And run them on e2 lithium's. Waterproof...and a twisty action with 3 O-rings at the only part of the light that opens...and the head is sealed. Plus the metal body is surrounded by a thick resn material...so it is not cold to pick up in sub 30 degree weather. That w/ a Quark AA set to moonlight, and you should have plenty of light no matter what happens.

 

[Burgess]

Fenix TK20 is a fine choice.


Check out Marduke's caving photographs, for an illustration.


They are in "Dirty Pictures" thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/219738



Good Luck on your upcoming camping expedition.

Be sure to report back to us, when you return.

 

[Dances with Flashlight]

The most durable light is two of them!

Now, if I was going camping and habitually would drop my flashlight, it makes me think about switches failing, leaks around the switch, torn tail boots, glass lens breaking, non-potted boards cracking (Fenix, 4Sevens, Olight etc, etc, etc)

I would get a 1AA light, twisty tail for waterproofness and reliability, a head that holds protected 5mm normally driven LEDs, make that multiple 5mm LEDs, no glass lens and single output for minimal electronics. Get the Peak single AA light with 7 snow LEDs with normal output levels and you're done. No switches to fail, no glass lens to break, fully potted electronics and brass battery button so when dropping the light down a mountain, the battery won't crack the board in the head from repeated shock. Loc-tite the tail mount were the ring does for a lanyard and you will be set. Run it on Energizer E2 lithium cells to make it lighter, run longer, won't leak and will operate in very cold temps.

The second light? Pick whatever you want and put some 550 cord through the tail ring and slide it in your holster. If it falls out of your hand, the 550 cord will prevent it from hitting the ground. Yes, I have camped with my sons and the 550 cord trick works great!

+1

 

[vb14]

If you were to go on an outdoor trip, for several weeks, where your light would probably get wet regularly, be dropped several times, but it was essential that it continued to work,

im guessing potted electronics and lots of epoxy but

what light would you take?

whats the toughest light you know of?

Muyshondt Aeon