Why all the headlamps output are so low?

NickBose

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Elektrolumens Minimak 14500 with Nite-ize headband - SSC-P4, Fraen optic, 14500, cutdown minim@g.
Minimak-headband-closeup.jpg


The torch in the OP should also fit the Nite-ize headband. The Fenix L2T/D and P2/3D are fatter but will go into the loop with some pushing. It is preferable to use a 2 cell light as the hot parts are further away from the loop and your head.

If used for close range (within 50cm), how easy is it to aim the light at the target? Side-mounting may not be very good for close-range illumination?
 

hopkins

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Just had a thought that we may have reached the level of technology of LED's
where active cooling is needed for putting out a lot of light for a long time.

...and to keep the headlamps weight down a tiny cooling fan might be the key...
 
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TorchBoy

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Heat is the primary concern [if you ever tried to wear a solder gun on your ear you'd understand the nervousness], and heat has a direct relationship with output.
I've never had any of my homemade headlamps melting their own solder contacts, but I have had a melting plastic smell from a Luxeon K2.

Like I've said before you don't need 200 lumens to grab a beer out of the icechest at night while camping.:D
And the radiant light energy would be absorbed (particularly with dark coloured cans) which would heat up the beer. :sssh:

hopkins, that heatsink rocks. :tinfoil:

NickBose, is the new generation LED headlamp thread relevant?
 

abvidledUK

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It is only natural to look at someone who talks to you.

Having a very bright headlamp would not be wise.

However, I like these :





(Daleks, BBC Dr Who, UK)
 

NoFair

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Good thing...I have built some battery packs that can actually drive the PT Apex on high for an extended time and they shut down due to heat. After about 15 min they work again....

I use mine with a 2X18650 pack and have used it on high for hours without any issues... :shrug:

It is often pretty cold here in Norway, but still sounds like your Apex might not be functioning 100%:thinking:

Mine are currently using Seoul emitters, but I ran them on high for long periods of time when they had Luxeon emitters as well..

Sverre
 

hopkins

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Hi Nofair - were you in windy conditions that helped carry away the heat
from the PT Apex heat sink?
When doing runtime tests at home I have used a small fan to cool the light
thinking it would be a more realistic test for hiking and avoid any LED life shortening the heat might cause..
-hopkins
 

NoFair

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Hi Nofair - were you in windy conditions that helped carry away the heat
from the PT Apex heat sink?
When doing runtime tests at home I have used a small fan to cool the light
thinking it would be a more realistic test for hiking and avoid any LED life shortening the heat might cause..
-hopkins

Some of the times I've been hiking or skiing (think cold to extremely cold;)), but other times I've been working on one of the cars or installing wiring (often used as a stationary light source off my head).

The heatsink does get warm, and the casing does get warmish, but not very..

Sverre
 

hopkins

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got it!
But for us CPF'ers down here in the hotter regions of the planet...

...I'm still laughing at the image of a cpu cooling fan attached to a headlamp!
Suppose you're already pumping 1.0amp into the LED why worry about
another 100mA for a cooling fan to prevent a thermal event? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

abvidledUK

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...I'm still laughing at the image of a cpu cooling fan attached to a headlamp!
Suppose you're already pumping 1.0amp into the LED why worry about
another 100mA for a cooling fan to prevent a thermal event? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Use a solar powered fan ?

(Powered by the torch, not by the Sun, not much of that around at night ! )
 

uk_caver

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battery life matters too...

you don't want a light which you change batteries every hour...

I think that's one of the main issues for a lot of the potential market.
People who use headlamps frequently use them for many hours at a stretch, whereas flashlights are often just used for short bursts.

For most practical purposes, a 100 lumen headlight lights most things up nearly as well as a 200 lumen light would, while having something like 3x the runtime on a given set of cells.

With my Zebralight, I don't mind the low duration on high, since it's only running off a single cell. However, I wouldn't really be interested in a ~3W headlight that only gave me 3-4 hours off a set of AAs, and (like a lot of people), I'm not currently interested in using li-ion power.
 

etc

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The output is not low. The tech as implemented is about 2 years behind the latest and greatest from the lab. By standard 2 years ago, these are very bright LEDs. Wait for 2 years and you will get something better.

Having said that, I would love a custom made HL. Something a la Malkoff or Elektrolumens. Several hundred lumens, on 4xAA cells or even a C/D cell pack. I think I would prefer to contain all in one unit instead of having addition wires.
 

Jagge

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Not all. There is lots of headlamps with resonable output, 500-1500 lumens. Some of them are made for orienteering racing - you need lots of light to be able to run full speed in pathless forest without getting injured - and some are bike lights with head a band.

Only budget versions of these high power lamps are missing. Out of curiosity I made headlamp out of a P7 flashlight just to compare how it performs compared to my primary race weapon, a 700$ headlamp. Some details can be found at homemade lights section of this forum. Most of the orienteering community worldwide is still using 20W halogens and are waiting for something like my homemade popping up at reasonable price.
 

NickBose

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There's a new Ultrafire on DX with a rating of 130 lumen. Although it's good to have a red LED, this only has one mode. About quality, I think Ultrafire is a good brand.

How do you think the output would compare to this one with 6 LED.

2832407048_0eca038927_o.jpg
 
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