Why are there no good drivers?

[MrNaz]

I've been looking for decent drivers, and I just can't seem to find any drivers that are decent. Either you have drivers with no circuitry and just a basic AMC7135 chip/s on them, or you have drivers with 20 modes in three groups that just destroy the usefulness of the light by having so many different modes. I don't want to have to cycle through a bunch of modes to find "On".

Are there no decent boards out there that don't drown you in modes and also don't break the bank?

 

[BillyNoMates]

I've been looking for decent drivers, and I just can't seem to find any drivers that are decent. Either you have drivers with no circuitry and just a basic AMC7135 chip/s on them, or you have drivers with 20 modes in three groups that just destroy the usefulness of the light by having so many different modes. I don't want to have to cycle through a bunch of modes to find "On".

Are there no decent boards out there that don't drown you in modes and also don't break the bank?

That's why I started doing my own. I use a PIC controller to do the mode + spervisory functions. I've never looked at the common DX boards so I'm not sure what controller they use. I'm sure it would be possible to reprogram it, or swap it for a known one.

I remember this thread which talked about changing the modes
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=218235
but I'm not sure what the conclusions were, if any.

Could always take another look at trying to get input from foum members about driver hacks but the problem is every one has their own preferences so getting a generic solution is difficult. Also the drivers will be "subject to change without notice" so its not easy to guarantee a fix would work on all boards.

 

[greenLED]

Are there no decent boards out there that don't drown you in modes and also don't break the bank?

Have you looked at Wayne's (dat2zip) boards?

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61

Depending on what you want to do with them, george80's are good too (nFlex, etc.)

 

[MrNaz]

Have you looked at Wayne's (dat2zip) boards?

http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php?cPath=48_49_61

Depending on what you want to do with them, george80's are good too (nFlex, etc.)

I've checked them out. I'm looking for a board in the $1 to $3 price range. The DX boards would be ideal if not for the mode overflow.

 

[gunga]

DX has a 5 mode AMC7135 board. I'm using it right now, not bad, but I'm still not a Strobe/SOS fan when done this way (memory mode. Have to go through strobe SOS to get back to high. H-M-L- Strobe - SOS).

Should be sku 6190 I think. Just search for 7135.

I ordered some 3 mode 7135 boards from Kai. No idea how the modes are but will report back when/if they eventually get here. They seem ideal if I every get them.

 

[old4570]

What are you looking for ..

Plenty of 1Amp + drivers ...

But those MC-E / P7 drivers ??? def need a good one ..
sku.6190 = I used this driver with a Q5 , and it seems to deliver right on 1.03A with a fresh batt , + it also has the highest output with a 18650 Batt that I keep on 3.7v , it pushes at least 200mA more than other drivers , in R2 pills etc and is limited to 1Amp ...

Dx.sku.6190 if your looking for a 1Amp driver .

- Circuitry designed for Cree, SSC, and emitters with similar power specs
- Manufacturer rated maximum input voltage: 4.5V (2.6V cut-off)
- Manufacturer rated current output: 1000mA (when input is around 1000mA)
- Can be powered by a single 3.7V lithium battery (such as CR123A, 14500, 10440, etc) or two to three 1.2V / 1.5V batteries
- Plug and play state circuitry offers 5-modes as soon as you install this circuit board into your light
- Works with both clicky siwtches and twisty switches
- Mode cycle: Hi 100% > Mid 35% > Lo 20% > Strobe > SOS

 

[Packhorse]

Perhaps it may help if you explain what you want from a board.

 

[Lighthouse one]

I found that Kai has several 2 mode drivers. Worked well for me.

 

[ahorton]

Perhaps it may help if you explain what you want from a board.

Agreed.

I had the same trouble, I liked the GD1000 at the shoppe and it isn't too expensive, but I need about 50 of them for a project and that is far too expensive.

BillyNoMates gave me a lot of help and got me started with the LTC3454 chip and since then I've played around a bit with a few designs. I'm hoping to get a whole stack made up sometime that will have 2 or 3 modes controlled by a mechanical switch. That way I have the option to wire it up as a single mode driver, or multimode with these switches. It will be buck/boost and run off 2.5-4.5V. The dimensions will be around 18x8x4mm.

So if that interests you I can pass a few drivers along later, but they will take at least another month before I make them and even then I couldn't produce them for $3 each.

 

[greenLED]

good luck with your search

 

[MWClint]

Micro pucks are very small and extremely versatile.
http://www.ledsupply.com/micropuck.php

-you can wire them up in boost for 1.2v - 3v usage. 1-2 nimh or 1 CR123A
-buck for up to 8v.. 2x CR123A primary works great
-or buck/boost for 1 RCR123 (or 1-2nimh/1cr123a)
-you can wire two in parallel for 1amp..or multiple led driving..etc

they are 10$..a little pricier than kai/dx boards..but they are
quality peices.

 

[ace0001a]

I've checked them out. I'm looking for a board in the $1 to $3 price range. The DX boards would be ideal if not for the mode overflow.

Breaking the bank? $1??? $3??? No offense, but any driver less than $10 is not only "not breaking the bank" but is down right cheap. Wow, I honestly can't see how you can skimp on the driver as it's one of the most crucial components of a regulated LED flashlight.

So as others have eluded to here, it would help to know what you're trying to accomplish here. Like what your power source will be (voltage input range), what LED you're trying to power and how hard do you want to drive it.

The Luxdrive Micropuck is a good inexpensive quality driver @ $10 each with a 500mA max per driver. You can stack 2 together to get 800mA (not 1A), but that brings up the cost.

If you're running a setup where input voltage will be more than 3.6V, this one from DX is dirt cheap and works very well:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

If DX is out of stock, KD has similar ones:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7330

Those are known as step-down or "buck" drivers. If your source power input voltage is 3V or less, then you need a step-up or "boost" driver. This one from DX is cheap and has been reported here by CPF members like Mr_Light to perform decently:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4735

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

The Luxdrive Micropuck is a good inexpensive quality driver @ $10 each with a 500mA max per driver. You can stack 2 together to get 800mA (not 1A), but that brings up the cost.

If you're running a setup where input voltage will be more than 3.6V, this one from DX is dirt cheap and works very well:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

If DX is out of stock, KD has similar ones:

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=7330

Hi ace0001a,

Could the buck drivers you mentioned here be wired in parallel to get 14-1600 ish ma?

 

[ace0001a]

Hi ace0001a,

Could the buck drivers you mentioned here be wired in parallel to get 14-1600 ish ma?

I don't know about the 700mA boost drivers being stackable, but I don't see why not. I know the 800mA buck drivers are stackable.

 

[MWClint]

These 1 mode 800 mah drivers at shining beam are always in stock and ive
never had one fail. it's 5$ for two..fast shipping as well.. they are also very
sandable, you can get them pretty small if need be.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-40/Circuit-board-1160/Detail

they will work in parallel as well..i'm using 4 in parallel in the
barbolight bomb proof host with no issue.

 

[HarryN]

Of course, you could engineer the battery and LED to match closely enough to not need a driver.

Example - 1 each R Li Ion cell (any size) with a single Lumileds K2 TFFC. At worst, you can add a bit of resistance (1- 2 ohms) or just rely on the inherent resistance of springs and switches. Once you hit 1 - 2 ohms total, you are home free.

Perfect - no.
Works + Cheap + Simple + Reliable - yes.
Efficient - more so than you might initially think

Just don't go cheap on the thermal path and it will be fine.

 

[wquiles]

Of course, you could engineer the battery and LED to match closely enough to not need a driver.

Example - 1 each R Li Ion cell (any size) with a single Lumileds K2 TFFC. At worst, you can add a bit of resistance (1- 2 ohms) or just rely on the inherent resistance of springs and switches. Once you hit 1 - 2 ohms total, you are home free.

Perfect - no.
Works + Cheap + Simple + Reliable - yes.
Efficient - more so than you might initially think

Just don't go cheap on the thermal path and it will be fine.

+1. Well said Harry - sometimes the no driver or DD (Direct Drive) is the ideal choice ;)

Will

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Hey guys,

Good thread so far, I realize this may be a lot to ask, but has anyone seen a cheap driver similar to the ones mentioned 700-1400 ma or so that has either 2 or 3 modes with NO strobe or sos?

 

[HarryN]

Hey guys,

Good thread so far, I realize this may be a lot to ask, but has anyone seen a cheap driver similar to the ones mentioned 700-1400 ma or so that has either 2 or 3 modes with NO strobe or sos?

For some very space constrained designs, I have used 3 resistors (2, 10, 30 ohms) with a switch, but maybe you are not looking for a resistor solution.

 

[LukeA]

Hey guys,

Good thread so far, I realize this may be a lot to ask, but has anyone seen a cheap driver similar to the ones mentioned 700-1400 ma or so that has either 2 or 3 modes with NO strobe or sos?

KD has a 1050/150mA 2-mode board

single

5-pack

20-pack (1050mA high/50mA low is claimed, but I don't know what the true current is)