Why not Energizer lithiums

[Albinoni]

I've noted on this forum that alot of users dont reccomend the use of Energizer Lithiums in LED Torches due to the fact that they can or might damage the LED itself. But my question here is isnt the Energizer Lithiums actually made for high driven devices such as cameras, flashes etc.

Another question (bit out of topic) but out of Energizer e2 Advanced or Duracell Ultra's which one would you pick assuming your going to use them in a LED Torch.

 

[Alan B]

Energizer Lithium AAs develop more voltage than Alkaline AAs. In some designs this higher voltage is a problem. Many lights have no problem with it. You have to research the particular light to see. The only one I recall having a problem is the Petzl MYO XP headlamp, but I'm sure there are others.

-- Alan

 

[DM51]

Not entirely on topic, but you may be interested in this thread.

 

[Marduke]

As the alkalines you've chosen, neither is really a good choice for a modern LED torch, as all alkalines perform poorly under high load. NiMH is the most economical and well performing, with e2 lithiums working well is most modern lights and performs the best.

 

[Albinoni]

As the alkalines you've chosen, neither is really a good choice for a modern LED torch, as all alkalines perform poorly under high load. NiMH is the most economical and well performing, with e2 lithiums working well is most modern lights and performs the best.

I dont think the Energizer e2 are Lithiums, their Lithiums are blue/silver colour whereas their e2 is red/silver.

 

[Marduke]

I dont think the Energizer e2 are Lithiums, their Lithiums are blue/silver colour whereas their e2 is red/silver.

The e2 is their "premium" line, which include lithium AA and AAA's, Titanium alkalines, the green rechargeables, etc.

 

[Albinoni]

The e2 is their "premium" line, which include lithium AA and AAA's, Titanium alkalines, the green rechargeables, etc.

Ok I'm referring to the red packet not the blue.

 

[Marduke]

Ok I'm referring to the red packet not the blue.

In that case, I would not recommend either the Titanium's, or the Duracell Ultra's, or any other alkaline battery in a high power LED light.

 

[Alan B]

Lithium or low self discharge NiMH would be the best choice.

-- Alan

 

[this_is_nascar]

I've ran the E2 Lithiums in every AA or AAA based light that I've ever owned, with the exception of the PT Surge. In the Surge, it's been proven that all those cells running at 1.76 volts will toast the bulb. For all other lights, the E2 has performed very well, making the cost difference worth it for me. Some lights show a very noticable improvement in runtime and/or brightness and in some cases, both. Will it take an LED from 50k hours lifetime down to 25K hours lifetime? Who knows? Who cares? By then, that particular light is old and outdated anyway.

I'd venture to guess, especially in single cell applications, the tolarances of voltage are not tight enough where 1.76 volts vs. 1.51 volts is going to cause harm.

 

[Alan B]

Some lights depend on the voltage to drop a bit under the load, so the Alkalines and NiMH are both similar in voltage around 1.2V. When you toss in the 1.7V low impedance Lithiums it can really stress things thermally. It is not common, but a few cases apparently exist.

-- Alan

 

[VidPro]

i run the e2 lithium when weight and long run on a high powered item is important.
On devices i Know will not be driven well with alkaline, especially on flashlights that cannot handle li-ion voltages, but act a bit weak with alkies.
take the jetbeam thing that POPs dead when you use a li-ion, or other things that overdrive with that voltage. the lithium runs a bit hotter then the alkaline, but doesnt always overdrive (fall completly out of regulation) like li-ion and gives great service.

you cant outright recommend AA&AAA lithiums (of any sort) to Everything in lights because some are "dependant" on alklaine weak regulation, the battery not pushing so hard as to damage drivers or leds or filiments.
just like you cant outright recommend a 4.2v RCR123 to all 123 users, lots of lights go overdrive.

i would "recommend" e2 lithiums of all 3 types, if you know the light can handle it. like 3AAA direct drives dont usually.
but the COST, geesh, hard to recommend when it might be EVER 120% better than cheap lithium that costs 50%.

for gift items, i shove the lithium e2 in, and maxell quality coin cell lithium, but i doubt the recipiant will fork over that kind of dough for a simple light after its depeleated.

if the cost was exactally the same, i would say "only buy" the e2 lithium, because its consistant, you can get it fresh, company supports, and it might be "safest"

 

[MarNav1]

The E2 lithiums are all I use in my AA lights and they work great in em all. Wish they were cheaper though. I am slowly changing over to NiMH cells though, been using the blue and green label ones from Walmart and they work okay. Don't know the brand name though.

 

[Marduke]

The E2 lithiums are all I use in my AA lights and they work great in em all. Wish they were cheaper though. I am slowly changing over to NiMH cells though, been using the blue and green label ones from Walmart and they work okay. Don't know the brand name though.

e2's are only made by Energizer. If you have a SamsClub membership, or have a friend who does, they sell 12 packs for $20. All have AA's, some stores now also have AAA's.

That's $1.67 each, opposed to $2.50 each when bought in 4-packs at WalMart.

 

[ltiu]

I've noted on this forum that alot of users dont reccomend the use of Energizer Lithiums in LED Torches due to the fact that they can or might damage the LED itself.

The manufacturer, notably Petzl will indicate in product documentation whether the use of Energizer e2 lithium L91 and L92s are ok or not. Most lights can use L91s safely. All my FENIXs use L91s. My River Rock K2 headlights use L91s. I've used L91s in my Inova x1. My MTE SSC P4 use L91s too with no bad side effects.

 

[ltiu]

e2's are only made by Energizer. If you have a SamsClub membership, or have a friend who does, they sell 12 packs for $20. All have AA's, some stores now also have AAA's.

That's $1.67 each, opposed to $2.50 each when bought in 4-packs at WalMart.

Walmart sells 8 packs for about $16.89. Comes up to about $2.11 before sales taxes.

 

[ltiu]

i run the e2 lithium when weight and long run on a high powered item is important.

+1

I do the same when going caving. Need light weight and long run times.

 

[ltiu]

There are two types of e2's. The Lithium version (bluish package) and a souped up alkaline version (reddish package).

 

[Albinoni]

Ok my torch is the Led Lenser Hocus Focus 7438 so it would be ok for me to use the Energizer Lithiums in it or better still I get some Sanyo Eneloops. Also will Lithiums sag in power compared to that of normal Alkalines. Also why dont you reccomend Alkaline batteries for LED torches or any torch as a fact is it because they tend to sag in power and not hold their charge after a considerable amount of time when under pressure from a high drain device?

 

[VidPro]

Ok my torch is the Led Lenser Hocus Focus 7438 so it would be ok for me to use the Energizer Lithiums in it or better still I get some Sanyo Eneloops. Also will Lithiums sag in power compared to that of normal Alkalines. Also why dont you reccomend Alkaline batteries for LED torches or any torch as a fact is it because they tend to sag in power and not hold their charge after a considerable amount of time when under pressure from a high drain device?

the hocus focus if its the same as the coast (they say it is) is direct drive 3XAAA, with lithium AAAs it severly overdrives which is cool for a while, but that combo will eventually ruin the led. luckily there is some sort of heat removing in the thing.
you know there is totally enough room in it to put a driver or a resister in, but the one i modded was direct drive, with minimal resistance. highly dependant on alkalines regulating it via weakness of battery.
will work "ok" or overdrive much lesser with ni-mhy but not "hot off the charger".

direct drive 3xlithium AAA units lasted about 30-300 hours then died, some went horribly blue first as an indicator of thier impending demise. simple resistor added and they seem to live forever.