Wizard / Wizard Pro. Multi-flashlights.

[desmobob]

Just wanted to give a round of applause for the Wizard Pro V2 Warm. <SNIP>

Eric,

Thanks for the excellent info on the new Wizard Pro V2 Warm. Mine is en route, and I'm chomping at the bit! I was really liking my Zebralight H600w MkII when I got it. Then I picked up an ArmyTek Tiara Pro C1 and started using it quite a bit. Last night, I used the H600w for the first time in a while and it immediately struck me that the ArmyTek beam is much more floody and handy. Now I'm really anxious for the Wizard Pro to arrive!

Take it easy,
Bob

 

[scs]

I just read that response in the dobermann thread. I have no reason to believe, based on reading that, that there are any "pre-release" Wizard V2's out there with different specifications.

If there are, no, I was not made aware of any differences. I ordered mine from illumn.

Thank you. That's reassuring.

 

[mdocod]

Just discovered a mild problem with one of my new Wizards Pro V2 Warms. I may have spoke too soon in calling these "mature." Seems to me like armytek has headlamps that would be worth an easy $150 each, if only they could actually get them to consistently do what they are supposed to do... I'm beginning to wonder based on feedback around here what percentage of armytek lights with complex UI's actually work as intended.




See post #48 below for followup...

 

[Toolboxkid]

I ordered my wizard pro v2 90cri from hksupply, it acted up from day 1. After taking a video of the light and sending it to armytek, I have a new one on the way.
The problem was the light would sometimes not go into high modes. It would also quit working all together once voltage dropped below 3.8v. And on top of that, it flickered quite a bit. Hope the replacement comes soon so I'm not in the dark for long!


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums

 

[ArmyTek]

Dear friends! Thank you for your videos and full describtions of the problem. Yes, it is a service case and you should contact [email protected] to make a replacement. Our specialist will offer you the most suitable options.

 

[scs]

...Seems to me like armytek has headlamps that would be worth an easy $150 each, if only they could actually get them to consistently do what they are supposed to do...

Then people might end up with $150 lights with problems and be a lot more pissed off. There's gonna be some furniture moving around!


If you do end up returning the light, please let us know if Illumn offered to pay for return shipping and send you a replacement, or directed you to deal with Armytek on your own. Thanks.

 

[mdocod]

Interestingly enough, the problem shown in the video above suddenly went away... So I decided to do some "investigation" as to why the behavior suddenly changed. I've tried various things, but can't reliably replicate the problem. For whatever reason, I got "lucky" when shooting the video, and was able to demonstrate it, but now it is only doing it *sometimes.*

I don't really want to go through a return or service cycle for this issue, especially if it is intermittent in nature and may not even be demonstrable when received for service/replacement.

The issue is a minor inconvenience and disappointment. Provided the rest of the functionality of the headlamp continues to work as it is supposed to, I'm probably just going to live with it, as I don't have any expectation from a headlamp to be "tactically" reliable. (Always predictable). I just need it to always be functional. If I have to untwist and re-tighten the tailcap once and awhile It's not the end of the world. I only paid $85 each for these using a CPF discount at illumn dot com. Like I said, these would probably be worth $150 (~$130 with "CPF discounts" of course) if they had better consistency and quality control, so even with the very minor "issue" I still feel like this is a great headlamp and a great value.

-----------

Far as I'm concerned, armytek has what would be on paper, some of the best flashlights and headlamps I could ever imagine in terms of the balance between features, form factor, aesthetics, UI, implied durability, and size/weight. It's a shame that there seems to be a high occurrence of problems with these lights (almost all seems to be software/firmware). I really hope armytek can work out the kinks as I really think they have a good thing going here.

 

[mdocod]

For those who would like to know...

Using a DMM I come up with the following power consumption at various modes on a Pro V2 Warm...

OFF: ~0.0008W
FF1: ~0.0024W
FF2: ~0.02W
FF3: ~0.06W
MM1: ~0.4W
MM2: ~1.1W
MM3: ~2.8W
MAX: ~10W

I'm only bothering to include the figures for losses to cell and contact resistance for the higher modes, as that is pretty minuscule for other modes.

So... If we use cree's product characterization tool for a T6 bin emitter, apply some educated extrapolation and make some semi-reasonable assumptions about driver efficiency, TIR optic efficiency, I figure on the following:

FF1: If we assume 50% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~20C, that's ~0.19 lumen OTF for ~6 months on an NCR18650B.
FF2: If we assume 75% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~20C, that's ~2.2 lumen OTF for ~27.5 days on an NCR18650B.
FF3: If we assume 90% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~20C, that's ~8 lumen OTF for ~8.5 days on an NCR18650B.
MM1: If we assume 95% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~25C, that's ~55 lumen OTF for ~31.5 hours on an NCR18650B.
MM2: If we assume 95% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~30C, that's ~145 lumen OTF for ~11.5 hours on an NCR18650B.
MM3 :If we assume 95% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~40C, that's ~325 lumen OTF for ~4.4 hours on an NCR18650B.
MAX: If we assume 90% driver efficiency X 85% transmission efficiency and the emitter at ~60C, that's ~765 lumen OTF for ~1.1 hour on an NCR18650B.

I did a runtime test on MM3 and the light reverted to FF1 mode at 4 hours and 30 minutes. Cell was at 3.06V when removed. (started at 4.19V).

[edit in]: I did a runtime test on MM2 and the light reverted to FF1 mode at 11 hours and 20 minutes. Cell was at 3.06V when removed. (started at 4.18V).

------

[edit in]
Wish FF3 were closer to specified output/runtime than actual. (~15 lumen)

MM2 and MM3 are both likely a little less bright than claimed, but both achieve longer runtime than claimed by nice margins. For my use, this is actually superior to the original specifications, so I'm fine with this.

MAX mode output and runtime claims seem optimistic to me, but there's a lot of room for discrepancy here depending on optical and electrical efficiency. If the TIR employed is closer to 90% efficient, and they are managing 95% electrical efficiency in this mode, then 900+ lumen OTF is possible here with a good LED sample, albeit, unlikely.

 

[YahFargo]

I've come across another issue in addition to the button beacon/main LED flashing in unison on firefly modes. Last night I ran my Pro V2 on turbo for appx 2 minutes, and the button started flashing yellow to indicate it was getting warm. This created an issue.

When the light is off and you hold the button down its supposed to cycle through the firefly modes, which it did before my 2 minute turbo run. Now, whenever I hold the button down from off it starts at firefly 1 and runs all the way up to turbo and then shuts off. It doesn't stay and cycle in fireflys like it should. I see this firefly1-turbo cycle is used to enter the menu mode to set your battery type. I ran the cycle and entered the menu and set battery type thinking that it would solve the issue. It didn't. These are touchy and problematic lights for 90 dollars.

 

[mdocod]

I've come across another issue in addition to the button beacon/main LED flashing in unison on firefly modes. Last night I ran my Pro V2 on turbo for appx 2 minutes, and the button started flashing yellow to indicate it was getting warm. This created an issue.

When the light is off and you hold the button down its supposed to cycle through the firefly modes [no], which it did before my 2 minute turbo run. Now, whenever I hold the button down from off it starts at firefly 1 and runs all the way up to turbo and then shuts off. It doesn't stay and cycle in fireflys like it should. I see this firefly1-turbo cycle is used to enter the menu mode to set your battery type. I ran the cycle and entered the menu and set battery type thinking that it would solve the issue. It didn't. These are touchy and problematic lights for 90 dollars.

Actually, what you have described is not in conflict with the way the light is supposed to work at all.

As the user manual states, from OFF, a press and hold should start from FF1 and ramp all the way to MAX, then off, (then the option to enter battery type programming).

The only way to "cycle" just within the FF mode group. Is to RELEASE the button somewhere within the FF range before it "passes" into MM/MAX, then, with the light already active in a FF mode, you can press-and-hold to cycle through the FF group only.

Working as intended. Both my lights behave as you have described.

 

[YahFargo]

Actually, what you have described is not in conflict with the way the light is supposed to work at all.

As the user manual states, from OFF, a press and hold should start from FF1 and ramp all the way to MAX, then off, (then the option to enter battery type programming).

The only way to "cycle" just within the FF mode group. Is to RELEASE the button somewhere within the FF range before it "passes" into MM/MAX, then, with the light already active in a FF mode, you can press-and-hold to cycle through the FF group only.

Working as intended. Both my lights behave as you have described.

It looks like you are correct! So what I thought had created an issue actually fixed an issue (that I didn't know was one). :laughing:

 

[desmobob]

I just received my Wizard Pro (warm) from ArmyTek. It took 13 days from the order date and arrived in perfect condition. I ran it through all its functions, paying particular attention to the difficulty Eric had with one of his. No problems; functions perfectly, as I expected.

I really like the ArmyTek products I have: Predator Pro v2.5, Viking Pro v2.5, Tiara Pro C1 v2 and now, this Wizard Pro v2 Warm. I start a vacation at the end of next week and I can hardly wait to get into the woods with the Wizard Pro!

Take it easy,
Bob

 

[ArmyTek]

I just received my Wizard Pro (warm) from ArmyTek. It took 13 days from the order date and arrived in perfect condition. I ran it through all its functions, paying particular attention to the difficulty Eric had with one of his. No problems; functions perfectly, a I expected.

I really like the ArmyTek products I have: Predator Pro v2.5, Viking Pro v2.5, Tiara Pro C1 v2 and now, this Wizard Pro v2 Warm. I start a vacation at the end of next week and I can hardly wait to get into the woods with the Wizard Pro!

Take it easy,
Bob

Great! Share your thoughts about it after using.

 

[ArmyTek]

mdocod, thank you for your small review of Wizard v2 and thoughts that you share with us here.

There were no pre-released versions of Wizard before the official release.

 

[mdocod]

You're very welcome ArmyTek!

Keep up the good work!

 

[ArmyTek]

You're very welcome ArmyTek!

Keep up the good work!

Thank you for so kind words, higly appreciate your attention and recognition!

 

[underconstruction]

I just received my Wizard Pro v2 warm and it seems like a nice light. However, I am having an issue where it will switch into tactical mode during normal usage, without the tail cap ever being unscrewed. It makes the light very difficult to use.

Are there any ways to fix this?

Thanks

 

[mdocod]

I just received my Wizard Pro v2 warm and it seems like a nice light. However, I am having an issue where it will switch into tactical mode during normal usage, without the tail cap ever being unscrewed. It makes the light very difficult to use.

Are there any ways to fix this?

Thanks

That's interesting, as one of mine has this behavior as well, but only under specific conditions, and it is not consistently repeatable. See the video I posted of the issue earlier in this thread. I'd be curious to know if your issue is the same or worse.

 

[underconstruction]

That's interesting, as one of mine has this behavior as well, but only under specific conditions, and it is not consistently repeatable. See the video I posted of the issue earlier in this thread. I'd be curious to know if your issue is the same or worse.

My problem is similar to yours. My light will also blink once when cycling and then completely shut off and the button becomes unresponsive. I have to untwist and retwist the tail cap to get the switch working again.

Another thing I noticed is that when ramping sometimes it will go through all modes ff1-max and then the ramping will completely stop and the light will remain off even though the switch is still depressed.

 

[mdocod]

underconstruction,

If you read the new user manual for the V2 wizard available on armytek's site, you'll notice that the behavior your have described regarding "ramping through all the cycles, then stop" is actually the procedure for programming the battery type. Perhaps you should read the manual and set your battery type, then see if any of the other UI issues change.