XTAR VC4

[Dr. Tweedbucket]

I just used all 4 slots on mine today for 4 different 18650s and it did a great job of getting each one up to 4.2V and then turning off the juice. I like how you can see exactly what is going on with it voltage and current wise. I did some cheap NiMh batteries the other day and they charged up pretty nice. I'm using mine with a 5V wall wart .... didn't like the USB thing.

A+ so far!

 

[zipplet]

I have been using my VC4 as my primary "grab and go" charger for the past few months, for my various li-ion cells (mostly 18650) and Eneloops. I pair it with a USB charger that outputs 5.2V rather than 5V - this seems to be the sweet spot and current does not reduce even if I charge 4 cells at the same time.

Still functioning perfectly. I'd say this is definitely the best li-ion charger to recommend to someone uncomfortable with chargers that offer too many options. It just works.

 

[hank]

No "NiMH reconditioning feature" on this one.
Can anyone identify which Xtar charger has that and how it's done? I see it mentioned as available on the XP4C, but not documented.

 

[Xiphex]

I'm not sure if my VC4 is working properly or not anymore. It's charge cycle for Li-Ion is stuck at 0A - 0.2A and it won't go up to 0.50A or 1A. It's plugged into a 10A 10 Port USB charging dock. :thinking:

 

[HKJ]

I'm not sure if my VC4 is working properly or not anymore. It's charge cycle for Li-Ion is stuck at 0A - 0.2A and it won't go up to 0.50A or 1A. It's plugged into a 10A 10 Port USB charging dock. :thinking:

If you usb power supply is above 5 volt, the charger might have a problem, but if the usb power supply is below 5 volt it is expected behaviour of the charger.
A thin cable or bad connection can also make the charger work like the power supply has a low voltage!

 

[Xiphex]

If you usb power supply is above 5 volt, the charger might have a problem, but if the usb power supply is below 5 volt it is expected behavior of the charger.
A thin cable or bad connection can also make the charger work like the power supply has a low voltage!

I also tried a Fusion 4 Port 5V 2A & Apple 5V 2.1A ipad charger both charge at 0.2A -> Maybe because 3 of 4 batteries are already at 80% charge? for the UltraFire batteries, Channel 1 3 & 4 are at 3.9V ; Channel 2 at 3.5V

These batteries for my laser pointers: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...t-Review-of-UltraFire-SJ18650-6000mAh-(Black)

Edit: I have a single NL188 3100mAh battery on channel four and it's charging at 0.4A , charger seems normal. Sorry for the freak out.

I'm itching to purchase a second Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Apparently I tend to charge all 16 18650s on the same day.

 

[Tamadite]

I have also found strange behaviors with my VC4 when it comes to charging, e.g. charging current going below 0.5 when adding extra batteries, not steady screen brightness, etc.


The sort story: cable quality problem.


The long story: first I suspected problems with the power delivered by the power supply (5v-2.1A). I checked it with a USB-tester and I noticed poor performance. I replaced the power supply with another one with higher capacity (5v-3A) but same poor performance. I noticed slightly better performance when not using the USB-tester. From this point on, I discarded the USB-tester. Then I went for a 12V-3A power supply and a buck converter. I tried it setting it to 5v and 5.2v. I got again poor performance and so getting the amperage below 0.5A when charging more than 2 batteries. I also noticed higher temperature on the batteries when using 5.2v. Another phenomenon I observed was that regardless the voltage I set, the screen was always flapping on intensity in tune with the blinking figures/text as if the charger wasn't getting enough power to even keep a steady screen brightness. Then I decided to build my own power cable with a thick wire and bingo!!!! I do not get any drop on amperage nor blinking brightness when charging multiple batteries. To get the correct gauge of the cable, please refer to an AWG calculator (http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html).

 

[Timothybil]

That is the reason I never buy cheaper USB cables. Most of the low end cables are 26 ga., and the really cheap ones are 28 ga., which is basically about five hair thin wires wrapped around a single thread. Snap one of those wires by kinking the cable or bending it too much at any spot, and you have a built-in dropping resistor. I only buy Amazon Basic or MediaBridge cables these days. I actually wrote to MediaBridge and asked what gauge cable they used. Their response was only 24 ga., as anything less was asking for trouble. I agree with them, and have never had a problem when using cables from those two sources.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

That is the reason I never buy cheaper USB cables. Most of the low end cables are 26 ga., and the really cheap ones are 28 ga., which is basically about five hair thin wires wrapped around a single thread. Snap one of those wires by kinking the cable or bending it too much at any spot, and you have a built-in dropping resistor. I only buy Amazon Basic or MediaBridge cables these days. I actually wrote to MediaBridge and asked what gauge cable they used. Their response was only 24 ga., as anything less was asking for trouble. I agree with them, and have never had a problem when using cables from those two sources.

26ga. on that one:

https://www.mediabridgeproducts.com...usb-to-usb-cable-high-speed-a-male-to-mini-b/

Chris

 

[Timothybil]

26ga. on that one:

https://www.mediabridgeproducts.com...usb-to-usb-cable-high-speed-a-male-to-mini-b/

Chris

OK, so my memory is going bad. I was just off by one step. Still points out that the cheaper cables have a much greater chance of having an unacceptable amount of voltage drop, as well as being more fragile than better made cables.

When I was putting myself through college working in the A/V Center, I sometimes had to repair the cheap headphones we had to check out to students. Trying to solder 28 ga. wire is a pain in the you know what. Always spend more for good cables, it's the little things that rise up and kick one in sensitive regions when you try to cut corners.

 

[Xiphex]

Welcome to CPF Tamadite

The USB - DC cable that came with my VC4 is working normally. The Xtar VI01 is giving a reading of 5.16V 2.1A. The led backlight does not flicker on my 10A USB dock charger iBoost. Flickering only applies when the charger outputs less than 2A, like my LaCrosse C89201 alarm clock rated at 1A or via PC USB

My NL189 NL188 batteries do not turn warm when charging empty to full at 1A. The batteries charge cool

NCIX Sells the replacement cable. Link StarTech.com 3 ft USB to Type M Barrel 5V DC Power Cable Edit: might, might not be the cable. DC internal looks different

VC4 uses USB to DC ........

 

[Octavian]

Does anyone tried a 12V 2Ah power supply? :duh2: (without any voltage adapter). I need to know if I can use the power supply from XP4 charger without fried the VC4 charger.

I wish to replace my XP4 (because can not charge properly NiMh AA at 05 Ah , and my LiIon cells are charging only at 4,1 V..)

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Does anyone tried a 12V 2Ah power supply? :duh2: (without any voltage adapter). I need to know if I can use the power supply from XP4 charger without fried the VC4 charger.

I wish to replace my XP4 (because can not charge properly NiMh AA at 05 Ah , and my LiIon cells are charging only at 4,1 V..)

The VC4 is a 5v USB charger that needs a good solid 2.1A USB wall wart.

12v should fry the VC4.

Chris

 

[Octavian]

With a true 2,1 A USB source can I get 0,5A per each slot? I hear that is possible to not get the 0,5A per slot even with a 2,1A power source.

Thanks for reply

 

[ChrisGarrett]

With a true 2,1 A USB source can I get 0,5A per each slot? I hear that is possible to not get the 0,5A per slot even with a 2,1A power source.

Thanks for reply

I've had two of them.

To answer your question, maybe, or maybe not.

I've charged up two 26650s that were near empty (3.5v) and got 1000mAh for three consecutive hours, almost perfectly--1000mAh/hr., but that was the exception, not the rule.

Most of the time, especially with 4 slots filled and my Apple 12w wall wart, I don't seem to be getting 500mAh per hour. Closer to a 375mA rate. Same with 2 slots...680mAh per hour.

I bought it not because it's a fast, or a great charger, but because it runs on USB 5v supplies and I have a 14w USB solar panel, so I can charge up more than one cell/battery compared to my Xtar XP1 and MC1+ chargers.

It's a safe and proper charger that's not very fast, much like my NiteCore i4 v.2 charger. If you want 4 cells to be charged fast, get an Opus BT-3400/3100, or two Xtar VP2s.

Chris

 

[ateupwithgolf]

I have a VC4 and am using a Belkin 2.4 amp wall wart. Is there any need to get a better USB wall wart if my gauge is reading 1.0a on bays 1 and 4?

 

[ChrisGarrett]

I have a VC4 and am using a Belkin 2.4 amp wall wart. Is there any need to get a better USB wall wart if my gauge is reading 1.0a on bays 1 and 4?

As long as it's not melting, or catching fire, you don't require anything else.

IMO, the key with the VC4 is to time things out and don't go solely by the display readings.


Chris

 

[ateupwithgolf]

As long as it's not melting, or catching fire, you don't require anything else.


Chris

Well that's reassuring! LOL

 

[Ki113rMi113r]

Is this better than the BC1000 Alpha Power charger or about the same? I'm think about buying one of them.
Matt

 

[Xiphex]

The only USB Power adapter that's working for my Xtar VC4 is the Linke Q135 Qualcomm Quick Charge 2.0
It's giving me a solid 1A @ 2 & 0.5A @ 4