SECOND SURGERY WAS SUCCESSFUL!
I went ahead and ordered a second H30 to give the modification another try now that I know what I'm dealing with. I took step by step pictures of the disassembly, but once I started the LED swap I was so eager to finish I didn't take another picture until it was completed and working.
Here's patient #2 prior to surgery
Unscrew the retaining ring and remove the button cover
Unsolder switch leads and remove switch PCB
Straighten switch wires, clean off top of heatsink
Used a drill bit, twisting with fingers only, to clear out hole in sink
Tap inserted to use as handle to remove heatsink
Heatsink freshly removed from the light
Here's the reletive positioning of the heatsink
Here's the back of the LED with the heatsink removed
Push in on the dome to tip it back enough to clear the hole.
Light engine drops out battery end of the light body.
Here's the freshly removed light engine.
Here's the light engine with the potting compound removed.
The bottom of the light engine
(I was able to determine that I just broke off a single surface mount resistor on the original light. I'll need to see if I can find and scavange a 302 off of something else that's broken.)
Dome pried off LED
FYI: Heatsink reinstalled on light engine
Here's where I got in a hurry and stopped taking pictures. I just unsoldered the LED from the riser posts and soldered on the red LED in it's place. I also replaced the switch wires. The insulation was damaged on the white switch wire and I figured some longer wires would ease reassembly. FYI: the ground path to the body is made by the underside of the switch PCB. Also, on reassembly I found the spacing on the switch button retaining ring is not even. You need to rotate it to get the holes to line up. Marking the ring for proper alignment prior to disassembly would have helped.
And here's the patient, alive and well, with it's brand new red Cree XR-C.
I had been a little worried if it would work due to the lower Vf of the red LED. It was a shot in the dark if the circuitry could compensate. But it seems to be working fine. And the reletive brightness of the low/med/hi seem about the same as the original white LED. Only time will tell if it will hold up as well as the unmodified lights.