Fenix L1P Head vs Fenix L2P Head

I just wanted to know the answers to the following questions:

1. Can the L1P head be used with a 3 volt battery or even with a regulated rechargeable 3.7 volt batteries without being damaged?
2. Can the L2P head be used with rechargeable 3.7 volt batteries without being damaged?

I just received my conversion from the Fenix store for my L2P and I love the size but would like to use rechargeables.

-Goatee

Interested in the same answer, especially regarding the L2P & CR123 body with RCR123's @ 3.7v (4.2v off the charger).

Anyone???

-Goatee

i have a L2p/L1p combo coming and i plan to run it on 14500 rechargeables
....check out this thread...
there are some interesting comments
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/105904&page=1&pp=30

HEY HEY ITS HENDO said:

i have a L2p/L1p combo coming and i plan to run it on 14500 rechargeables
....check out this thread...
there are some interesting comments
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/105904&page=1&pp=30

Click to expand...

Hendo,

I checked those posts and you indicated that you were getting 15 minutes off of the 14500's with the L1P (or was it the L2P). Does this mean that you only got 15 minutes of runtime before the battery died?

-Goatee

My comments and review of running the L1P head on the CR123 body start here at post #113.
Other people's comments and some more of my comments follow scattered down the thread.
In short, Sometimes it does work, it probably AT LEAST shortens the life of your LED, I would NOT run it for over 10 seconds at a time (maybe 12 sec for CR2), and accept the risk that it may just blow up one day. And that day may be the first day you put it together.

Blindasabat said:

I would NOT run it for over 10 seconds at a time (maybe 12 sec for CR2), and accept the risk that it may just blow up one day. And that day may be the first day you put it together.

Click to expand...

That sounds pretty scary. I don't think it would be useful if I couldn't use it for more than 12 seconds. (other than for a fast WOW factor.) I was under the impression that others in the original thread were using it as a normal light with the L1P head without any problems SO FAR. Can anyone weigh in on their use of either the CR2 or CR123 body with the L1P head??

I don't want to encourage something that may blow somebody's emitter...
even if I do it myself. "Do as I say, not as I do."

I am slowly increasing the time I run mine. But I rarely need more than a few seconds anyway. So far it is just while playing around with it.

<edit> I'm up to 25 seconds now. Not too hot while free-standing either. I must have been heating it up more in my hand yesterday. This is awsome.

I tried the L1P head on my CR123 Adapter with a nearly new battery and it lit up REAL bright compared to my other L1P or my L2P on the same body. It also got hot REAL fast. Did I mention that it was REAL bright!

I left it on for more than a minute possibly 2 and it did get real hot but not much hotter than my Surefire L2 on high.

Right now, I have the L1P head on the L2P body with 2 AA NiMH batteries (1.2V each) and it is REAL bright again. It also gets hot just about as fast... maybe just as fast.

I am going to run it like this until it dies... I usually don't run it for more than a couple of minutes at a time so if the LED dies in 1000 hours vs. 10,000 hours I won't mind.

Only concern that I have is that the regulator will die and stop powering the LED. Should I be concerned with this?

-Goatee

I have the 123 body with an L2P head. Great light with primary cell. The 123 primary cell is a snug fit in this body. None of the several different rechargeable cells I have will fit.
jc

jclarksnakes,

Thanks for the reply. I did not think of the size relative to the adapter. Maybe a 14500 in an L1 body...

By the way, last night, I ran my L1P head on my L2 body with 2 x Duracell 2500 mah 1.2V batteries for over 30 minutes. The light was near the same brightness if not the same brightness as when I powered my L1P head with the 1 x CR123 the other night.

It did get hot, but not too hot. The entire body of the L2 w/L1P head got hot but it did not appear that the light dimmed and it did cool down very rapidly after I turned it off.

I plan on keeping the L1P head on the L2P for the extra brightness. This is a better option than using the L1P head on the CR123 body as there is not sufficient aluminum to dissipate the extra heat.

Wish me luck.

-Goatee

:)> said:

By the way, last night, I ran my L1P head on my L2 body with 2 x Duracell 2500 mah 1.2V batteries for over 30 minutes. The light was near the same brightness if not the same brightness as when I powered my L1P head with the 1 x CR123 the other night.

I plan on keeping the L1P head on the L2P for the extra brightness.

Click to expand...

Tried my L1P head on the L2P body and it does not light! It's almost as if the threads don't match. They do screw down but it gets very tight. I simulate the same distance between the head and body and make sure the tailcap is tight, but no luck!

Any thoughts??

onthebeam said:

Tried my L2P head on the L1P body and it does not light! It's almost as if the threads don't match. They do screw down but it gets very tight. I simulate the same distance between the head and body and make sure the tailcap is tight, but no luck!

Any thoughts??

Click to expand...

Is the body backwards?

Check my thread out here:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112563

The body isn't quite long enough to make the electrical connection.

After the mod, no problems running my L2P head / L1P body from a 14500 cell.

Cool mod there Firestik. My L2P/L1P head/body combo doesn't work with a 14500 either (battery is too long). If I didn't have a Jetbeam on the way, I might have copied it for myself.

chevrofreak said:

Is the body backwards?

Click to expand...

No, but I did flip it and try it the other way to try to get it to work. Still a no go for the L1P head on the L2P body.

onthebeam said:

Tried my L1P head on the L2P body and it does not light! It's almost as if the threads don't match. They do screw down but it gets very tight. I simulate the same distance between the head and body and make sure the tailcap is tight, but no luck!

Any thoughts??

Click to expand...

Yep.

I thought mine was screwed up after I ran it on the CR123 adapter. All I had to do was change the side of the body that the head was on. The head should be to the left of the "F" in Fenix.

-Goatee

Edit. I just noticed that someone already suggested that. I have also had to screw the aluminum lug w/the spring in the tail cap back in. Mine came loose and the light would not work properly.

I hope this works!