Effects of Fenix P1 + Protected RCR123A

What are the effects of using these batts which are 3.7v compared to 3v lithiums. Does it affect any of the following?

1. Regulation
2. LED lifespan
3. Extra heat? If so, does the small body of the P1 have enough to dissipate it.

I don't know if anybody yet's done a runtime test on the P1 with R123s. Quite interested myself.

As for heat/lifespan, the P1 is rated at up to 4.0V input voltage. Hot off the charger a R123 can rate up to 4.2V, but this drops to the nominal 3.7V soon enough. Beyond that, all you really need to worry about is heat. I'd imagine that using a lithium ion should only be done for brief periods of time to keep the heat down. If it gets too hot, stop using it.

I just did a meter reading useing a Minolta Digital Light Meter. (for Photography) Taking a reading right at the glass the RCR123 battery is 70% brighter than a primary cell.

I think the RCR123 is the way to go if your gonna use the P1 allot. Super Bright and rechargeable. Fast becoming my favorite neck carry!

frisco

Can someone do some beamshots with the P1 (using RCR 3.7) against a Jetbeam using a 14500 battery or maybe a Firefly 3 on rechargables?

So does anyone knows why the official Fenix site says the P1 can take RCR123A but at the same time don't encourage it?

x2x3x2 said:

So does anyone knows why the official Fenix site says the P1 can take RCR123A but at the same time don't encourage it?

Click to expand...

I imagine its do with this thing called warranty. That it will work, there just not going to fix it when you burn up 10 leds in a month lol......its a bussiness model.

I see, so does that mean using RCR123A at 3.7v will reduce the LED's lifespan?

I just fired a P1 up with a LioIon for a runtime test, the initial lux reading was 2463 vs the initial of 1427 with a CR123a lithium.

My light meter exagerates, but it is still good enough for comparing brightness and doing runtimes.

Nice.. for just over 30 minutes use. If you use it just a few minutes a day then recharge, this will be a barn burner.

Do you have a Jet-1 RCR123 graph to compare to?

Blindasabat said:

Nice.. for just over 30 minutes use. If you use it just a few minutes a day then recharge, this will be a barn burner.

Do you have a Jet-1 RCR123 graph to compare to?

Click to expand...

http://star.walagata.com/w/photostore/JetI-runtime14500.jpg

that is using a 14500.... since they are both 750mah, and 3.7v, it should be the same with r123s... not sure though. I am not sure if comparing it to the graph above is fair, considering this one uses protected 750mah (vs) unprotected 900 mah.

-David

Why is there such a large difference in total output between the black and natural P1s?

BTW, in my Jet1 off a 14500, I measured 1.73A current draw!!! Only 1A on a CR123A.

jsr said:

Why is there such a large difference in total output between the black and natural P1s?

Click to expand...

That's what I was wondering.... I assume that it is using the body as the electrical contact. Does the natural p1 body have a higher resistance than the black body?

It's luxeon lottery due to Lumileds crappy binning.

cheapo said:

http://star.walagata.com/w/photostore/JetI-runtime14500.jpg

that is using a 14500.... since they are both 750mah, and 3.7v, it should be the same with r123s... not sure though. I am not sure if comparing it to the graph above is fair, considering this one uses protected 750mah (vs) unprotected 900 mah.

-David

Click to expand...

They claim 900mAh for these cells but they perform almost the same as my JSBurly's cells that are 620.

jsr said:

Why is there such a large difference in total output between the black and natural P1s?

BTW, in my Jet1 off a 14500, I measured 1.73A current draw!!! Only 1A on a CR123A.

Click to expand...

1.73A!! Wow! Wont that ruin the lux3 after a while? What is the draw on the p1 with r123s?

-David

thats a big difference. I thought these were supposed to be qualitiy leds in the P1? Thats a big difference...

chevrofreak said:

It's luxeon lottery due to Lumileds crappy binning.

Click to expand...

Fenix's site states all are T-bin Lux3s. I can see the big difference in output due to different VF bins on an R123A. But under regulation, the output should still be closer, just the runtime would be shorter for the light with higher VF. It looks more like a comparison between a S-bin and a T-bin than it is between a difference in VF.
Unless the scale is just exxagerating the difference. But isn't 200+ Lux a considerably difference still?

Unless the scale is just exxagerating the difference. But isn't 200+ Lux a considerably difference still?[/QUOTE]

There are several factors in play :
The leds, inverters, and cases are different (the case color implies difference in heat rejection). Over all of them the Luxeon lottery is likely the major driver. The other factors make it very likely that the leds are both in the same flux bin, tho if in different Vf bins the results are even more consistant.

I highly doubt the difference in thermal conductivity of the aluminum between a black and natural HA finish would be significant enough to affect the light output so much (if at all). The converter/driver devices should not vary enough to change the output that much either. That leaves the LEDs. Like I said, the Li-Ion curve makes sense if the VFs were drastically different. However, for a primary CR123A, the driver is operating under full regulation (both curves show regulation) and drive current should be the same (and resultant output should be similar). The Vo of the driver will adjust to the VF of the LED when under regulation, negating the VF-factor with respect to output (only affects runtime). It's difficult to imagine there's that much output variation within the same flux bin ranking.