1st thoughts on my new L2T.

fire-stick

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Kinda green

really green on low

Bezel doesn't click when turned from low to high

on low it competes with lux I headlamp (just overall output)

On high it owns the lux I headlamp (which i expected)

I expected 50ish lumens to be alot brighter.

High is 5 times more output than low but it looks maybe twice as bright. But I guess this is just the human eye -vs- a tuned meter of some sort.
 

squirrel

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yeah that green tint is the reason I have not ordered any more fenix's.
 

carrot

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I don't understand what the big deal is with green tints. I'd rather have green over any other possible tint, aside from a creamy yellowish white.

My Civictor has a pukey greenish-yellow tint (the L2T has a creamy white tint, btw) but it has fantastic color rendition outside, so while it looks ugly on a white wall it is great outside. I say again, if you use your lights for real work chances are you'll never really notice the tint, nor will it bother you. :ironic:

Anyhow, Luxeon lottery is part of buying any Luxeon-LED based flashlight, not just Fenix. Even in Surefires. My Surefire E1L has a slight bluish tint that makes color rendition horrible at distances, for instance.
 
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Led_Blind

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Luxeon lotery is part of the game.. and if you dont like the tint replace the led :)

I do prefer a greener tint to the harsh blue i recieved in a recent Fenix l2p head. The blue just wont iluminate the the green leaves and any of the reds nearly as well.

I have been trying to open it up and change it but still have not managed to get it open :( Oh well
 

lightningbug

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I have several Fenix lights, and only one L2P has a "warm" tint. That Yellow golden tint isn't really noticeable unless comparing side by side to whiter beams. All my other Fenix' have a very white tint.
 

squirrel

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ok, well im still kinda new to this whole luxeon ballgame. I have never heard of this green tint more than I do with the fenix's. thats all im saying.
I am prolly wrong for thinking this, but thats what I gather from my readings.
 

carrot

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mbirds said:
...real world it's really about 32 lumens on high.
Source? Obviously Fenix's own numbers are exaggerated, but I haven't seen any integrating sphere measurements for the L2T...
 

mbirds

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http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/fenix_l1t-l2t.htm

No integrating sphere... But in addition to the review above I have compared mine with my Gerber 3.0TX (about the same), UK C8eLed (brighter), Streamlight m3 incand weaponlight (brighter but yellow beam), SF U2 (brighter, about the same on level 5), UK eLED q40+ (dimmer) and I do believe it's about 30 lumens. This includes beaming across my yard at night, illuminating distant houses, etc. There's no way the L2T is 50 lumens which is in the range of the UK C8 eLED and the U2.

BTW I love my L2T, it is probably the most useful light I own.
 

Casual Flashlight User

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Tint on mine is really nice - on high it's a nice white colour, with a slighty warmer/creamier tint on low.

This be the 'luxeon lottery' I suppose.


CFU
 

HonorKnight

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I think Fenix gets their lumen ratings by doing the math on the optimal bin stats for the lux 3. In real life things are seldom optimal and there is often a large variation in the LEDs. I was looking at flashlight reviews and the L2T reviewed there looked to be roughly 42 lumens using the "conversion factor estimate" (yes, estimate since you can't do a real conversion factor)
 

Dark Vapor

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I have a L1T/L2T head and using cr123 batteries. The color seems to be slightly yellowish-green in either brightness level. But if I use it with a 14500, the output is brighter and whiter (I don't think 50lm, but would guess closer to 40lm). However, the low level is almost as bright as the high and defeats the purpose of having multi-level brightness. This leads me to believe that it is underdriven with primaries (correct me if I'm wrong someone).

So to keep the 2 brightness levels, I opt to use the cr123. I'm waiting for someone to come up with a way to maintain the 2 brightness levels and using either the 14500 or rcr123 battery; then that's how I'll power the L1T/L2T head.
 
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NutSAK

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I am also using the L1T/L2T with the CR123 body. I love it--it is my EDC. Mine is greenish also, but I prefer the tint to the more bluish hues. I would agree that the lumen level is much closer to the 30-40 range. It is no brighter than my L2P.

Referring to the original post--the Bezel is not designed to click when switched from low to high.
 
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Planterz

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I ordered an L2T for a coworker (he's russian, barely speaks english, and couldn't figure out the website on his own), and of course before I gave it to him, I "tested" it. Very warm green tint. I was also very supprised how minimal the difference was between low and high. Of course, this was with fresh Energizer L91s. Looking at the graphs at fenix-store, it looks like it's initally nearly 800 lux (or comparative brightness level, whatever the scale is), and about 1150 on high. It'll take a while, but after usage, it'll drop to half this amount. It seems the not-very-low low level of the L*T lights is a common complaint.
 

Phaserburn

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On the other hand, if low is still pretty bright, but the power consumption is a mere fraction of high level, you've got a pretty great light there in my opinion. Think, "candle mode".
 

phosphor

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Phaserburn said:
On the other hand, if low is still pretty bright, but the power consumption is a mere fraction of high level, you've got a pretty great light there in my opinion. Think, "candle mode".

That's sort of the way I look at it. While the L2T might be a bit too long for comfortable pocket carry, it's slim form factor allows it to be tucked just about anywhere else with ease.....and you've got emergency lighting that will run on a "bright" low setting for hours and hours. Certainly however....three stages with a "lower" low would be MORE useful.

The green tint won't be very evident when you're using the light in the "field"...while on the wall, I admit, it's not all that fetching.

-regards
 

Dark Vapor

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Sorry TD, you'll have to convince 4sevens (fenix-store.com) to stock it, because he's mentioned that there were not enough interest in the cr123 and cr2 bodies to continue carrying the product. Of course you could always look for one in the B/S/T.

As for run time, there's a thread or two with graphs you can view.

Good luck in getting your cr123 body.
 

fire-stick

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CR123a, ni-mh, alk., L91 lithium, The list goes on.. How many different configurations is possible with the L2T. I know I might have to buy different batt. tubes but just exactly how many different configurations can the L2T be used in?
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