Just orderd a Seoul P4 from the shoppe... did I jump the gun?

Man, got ahead of myself with that "Checkout" button... is this the right one? I plan on putting it in my KL3/C2 combo along with my McE2S 60 ohm 2-stage switch.

Seoul P4

Just make sure you can keep it in a dust free enviroment so far they have the performance but be careful running it a long time, also if you put presssure on the lens it could kill the led.

No you did not jump the gun. In the proper host with the correct drive level and reflected/projected using a decent reflector or optic
You should be able to create a fine flashlight with that emitter.
yaesumofo

No, you did not jump the gun.

Just remember to use Arctic Aluminium epoxy (instead of Arctic Silver).

As far as dust-less environment, I wouldn't worry about that. Just work in your normal environment and before you put the flashlight head on, put a small but of water or saliva on the tip of your finger and run around the LED dome softly to remove any dust.

As far as pressure on the lens, just work normally as you would with all LEDs and electronic components. Keep them away from soldering irons, plyers and all other heavier equipment and you will be fine.

Would you take a hammer to an XRE or Luxeon?? No! All this talk about dust and soft lens is alarmist and uncalled for. We just need to know to be a bit more careful with it.

Go forth and modify!

so are these basically a direct replacement for the luxeon, besides the small height difference. is there a polarity issue? can anyone direct me to a concise explanation of differences with a luxeon?
thanks

Pumaman said:

so are these basically a direct replacement for the luxeon, besides the small height difference. is there a polarity issue? can anyone direct me to a concise explanation of differences with a luxeon?
thanks

Click to expand...

The slug on the SSC P4 is not nuetral, it is positive. Keep it isolated with Artic Alumina and not Artic Silver.

Yes, the slug is positive. That's why you would use Arctic Alumina. As far as differences, you would need a different lens for optimal distribution. Size, you already mentioned. There is apparently a diffence in colour. Some people have said it was much 'bluer' when using the T-bin. The U-bin was much better. And Vf and slightly different at different currents to the LuxIIIs/K2s. And oh, the big difference in brightness. That is about it.

Is the width of the lens about the same?

thanks for the info guys. any obvious reason it wont work in a luxogen LR12 on RCR2 with flupic installed?

Let me get the diagram.

hotbeam said:

Just remember to use Arctic Aluminium epoxy (instead of Arctic Silver).

Click to expand...

I keep seeing this comment - yet Arctic Silver epoxy is not electrically conductive either, simply capacitive. Does the capacitance really make any difference?

Also, when using the thermal epoxy, is it sufficient to simply use normal mounting procedures, compressing the LED onto the heatsink when mounting? I've seen it suggested that this risks forming an electrically conductive pathway even when using an insulating epoxy, and that you should put a first thin layer on to the LED before mounting.

AS, not electrically conductive, true. I am not sure if capacitance would make that much of an issue unless the AS is also covering the electronics of your driver. I am out of my depth here so someone can chime in.

As far as compressing the LED via the black housing, not LED dome, how would it make a electrically conductive path? The AS is there. If there are any issues, I would use AA to be certain.

Aarrgh, I forgot to order some Arctic Alumina! Gotta go back!


Now on that diagram what are the positive and negative leads?

hotbeam said:

Yes, the slug is positive. That's why you would use Arctic Alumina. As far as differences, you would need a different lens for optimal distribution. Size, you already mentioned. There is apparently a diffence in colour. Some people have said it was much 'bluer' when using the T-bin. The U-bin was much better. And Vf and slightly different at different currents to the LuxIIIs/K2s. And oh, the big difference in brightness. That is about it.

Click to expand...

This is getting really rediculous.

You can get the Seoul P4 in warm, blue, green, pink, yellow, and other tints of white, as well as "white".

It makes ZERO difference whether it is a T bin or U bin. I even now have some X1 (SXN) binned Seoul P4, as well as SXP, SVO, and SWO. Why sellers here on CPF don't want to reveal the binning, I'll never know. U bin don't generally run bluish or any other color of white. They come from Seoul clearly marked with their bin codes. IMHO, it is a bane to Seoul not to reveal the bin codes of the parts, lumens, Vf, and tint.






Also, Artic Alumina is definitely not a perfect insulator, I've seen the stuff conduct plenty of times, and unfotunately it happens after you have things all put back together. There have been many cases of this problem here on CPF also, especially with Artic Alumina and the Luxeons. One would have to be foolish to count on Artic Alumina to act as an insulator. Seen many a project ruined trying to trust AA for insulation.

That said, I have put down a razor thin layer, and let it dry until somewhat hard, then glued the emitter on top of that, it works great, if both surfaces are flat.

These Seoul P4 do in fact come binned for tint, Vf, and lumens.

It is a shame, not to tell buyers what they are in fact buying.


With the Seoul P4, with most reflectors, you'll, need to grind a portion of the reflector off, as well as shim up the emitter, or shim the reflector backwards.


It is definitely *NOT* a drop-in.


.

hotbeam said:

As far as compressing the LED via the black housing, not LED dome, how would it make a electrically conductive path? The AS is there. If there are any issues, I would use AA to be certain.

Click to expand...

Because when you compress it there is presumably a chance that you will get direct metal to metal contact - after all the whole point of compressing it is to get as thin a layer as possible for best thermal conduction. Using AA rather than AS won't help for this.

(not an expert, but I can't see any reason why capacitance should be an issue, given the capacitance will be in parallel to the existing output capacitor on your regulator).

chris_m said:

Because when you compress it there is presumably a chance that you will get direct metal to metal contact - after all the whole point of compressing it is to get as thin a layer as possible for best thermal conduction. Using AA rather than AS won't help for this.

(not an expert, but I can't see any reason why capacitance should be an issue, given the capacitance will be in parallel to the existing output capacitor on your regulator).

Click to expand...

No, the capacitance should not be an issue for anything but a rapidly PWM'd regulator, and even then, probably not an issue, ask the designer specifically. The die already typically has 800pf of capacitance anyhow.

If you are counting on using AA as your only insulator, imho, you are asking for trouble. See hints in my last post for a way to help make sure it doesn't short thru, as has happened to myself and others.

I always get metal to metal contact when AA'ing stuff because I make sure it oozes out. It's just there to fill in the microscopic holes and hold the led down. So you'll have to do a thin layer first to insure isolation. But then you got less than optimal thermal transfer...

Easiest is to use an anodized heatsink.

Well I'm planning to use it with the stock optic for a kickin' bright spot... at least at first anyway.

Also since the KL3 only allows 450mah to the emitter (correct me if I'm wrong about that), shouldn't the heat issue not be such an issue?

There are many ways to manage how the emitter is epoxied to the base without continuity to the anode.

Electrical continuity requires a clear path (high spots that touch between metal surfaces) and a force (that pushes the high spots together).

Knowing this, make sure of a few things:

(1) Epoxy the base to a smooth surface, no burrs or significant irregularities.

(2) Don't fixture or solder the emitter during curing. You can compress it into position with moderate force, then when you let go the anode will relax away from the base so that the microscopic high spots of the metals do not touch. The worst thing you could do is put pressure it while curing.

(3) Don't put pressure on the emitter after it's cured either. Be sure that when you solder the leads you don't create a constant stress situation. Try to solder the wires in their relaxed state.

(4) Don't allow a reflector to push on the emitter body after installation.

(5) Check your work with an ohmmeter before powering up anything.

You may need to modify the optic to get the Seoul P4 to the optimum focal focus spot, and shim it up a bit, or you can go as is, if you don't mind throwing extra lumens in other areas. If I recall correctly, many of the Surefire lights have an annodized layer under the emitter anyhow, so this part may be a non-issue for you KDOG3.