Help me understand the popularity of the TS10

vicv

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Yes, I saw that you can do factory reset with unscrewing, but I was taking it to mean fully off, so total power off. But doing a factory reset is not a major thing, as I am not changing any settings that are in any way critical to me… in fact if I accidentally change a temperature or safety feature, it would be a good thing !
Yes thats what the factory reset is for.
If you screwed the head all the way off, how would it perform a factory reset when there's no power. And the head isn't attached to the switch in any way?
 

jon_slider

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but no where can i find the flow to adjust the red LED brightness or even how to turn it off other than unscrew the body
I think vicv already did a really good job explaining it to you, in any case, here is 7C Aux control on the flowchart (if you bought an Aluminium TS10, it has single color Aux, the 7H command for RGB Aux applies to the Titanium models)
cetP5Py.png

this is in no way a sales thread, nobody is getting paid to share info here.. this thread is more accurately described as an Intro to Anduril UI.. ;-)

Anduril is a very feature rich Programmable UI, and can definitely be overwhelming for people whose experience is limited to NonProgrammable UI lights with simple 1-3 modes... Reading the Manual can help add to the confusion, until someone actually has an Anduril light in hand, with which to explore the Options.

Congrats on taking the leap to learn a new UI.. if you were to buy an HDS, and were to read the manual, I think there would be a similar learning curve.

I agree the manual that comes in the box has tiny print.. I certainly cannot read it.. I use the Anduril 2 Online Manual. Once you have read throught it, the flowchart can work as a reminder of all the various options available.
 
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jon_slider

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By fully powering it off, then with the end cap switch held 'On' when power reapplied to module. That was my thinking
youre a good guesser ;-)
(for someone that just wants to click around and see what happens, instead of reading the manual)

here is another online manual that describes the factory reset process
 

scout24

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Sounds counter intuitive, but I like the out of the box simplicity if that's all you want. Hold from off for moonlight, ramping is easy to figure out, double tap for turbo, and memory enabled. 7 tap to dim the secondaries is the only change I've made to any of mine.
 

jon_slider

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I like the out of the box simplicity
sounds reasonable.. changing any Options is Optional, not a requirement

I do agree that dimming the Aux is a good move, the High Bright Aux on 24/7 will drain the battery in less than than a week, they are set too bright, by default (Anduril has LVP.. so no worries about overdischarge)

since I do not usually use the lockout function (Ive never had the light turn on by accident), I set Lockout to use Bright Aux.. that way, if I want to use the Aux on bright mode, for brief needs, I just lock.. then to dim them, I just Unlock (like you, I use Dim Aux for normal use, such as to locate the light on my nightstand)

glad youre enjoying your little Anduril light
Happy Holidays!
 
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jon_slider

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The red Aux. version isn't too bad on full brightness.
it just drains the battery in less than a week.. I prefer the longer runtime on dim Aux, but its not "Bad" if you choose to use Bright Aux.. you just have to charge the battery more often
 

vicv

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it just drains the battery in less than a week.. I prefer the longer runtime on dim Aux, but its not "Bad" if you choose to use Bright Aux.. you just have to charge the battery more often
Ya I like the bright orange aux. it's not useful. I just like it. So I accept that it uses up the cell faster. At night I put it down to low. Maybe I'll set low to lockout and use it in lockout mode at night. Momentary super low doesn't sound so bad
 

cave dave

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Better off with Reylight Rook.
I have the Rook and I much prefer the TS10. The optics are better. Its smaller. It's much cheaper. Battery can be about the same capacity if you upgrade. The Rook gets super hot on high and output still drops like a rock just like the TS10 and the Rook levels aren't well spaced and lacks a good medium-high. And oddly I find the rook hard to program.

I do like other Reylights alot though like the 1xAAA, 2xAAA and the Al LanApple. Multi-battery support is nice on those.
 

vicv

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Jon, I finally got a light box setup. It's surprisingly accurate too. And consistent. For a dremel box lined with white paper and an 8 year old Chinese android phone with Zak's ceiling bounce app. Anyway if I set ramp ceiling to level 90, like you I get 120 lumens. Perfectly regulated till just as the cell dies. Nice. And if I memorize that output, it's memorized. As soon as I re-set the ceiling to my preferred 120, the memory reverts back to level 4, or 80 lumens. I've tried it three times now. And it goes to 80 lumens every time I set the ceiling back to 120. Something I'm doing wrong maybe or does manual memory get reset when changing ceiling?
 

jon_slider

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Congrats on your Lumen measuring capability, great to hear it is working well.

> As soon as I re-set the ceiling to my preferred 120, the memory reverts back to level 4, or 80 lumens.

confirmed, changing ceiling and using stepped modes, does not retain exact memorised output.. but if you switch to smooth ramp, the memorised output is still correct

Try using smooth ramp instead of stepped. I just did a test and the memorised level was retained after a ceiling change.

my guess would be that stepped modes get recalculated based on Floor to Ceiling range.. (and number of steps)

fwiw, I found that if I use 9 stepped modes (with no manual memory), with a floor of 2 and a ceiling of 120, that level 7 gives the top of the 7135, 120 lumens (my test light has the cool white LED), and level 7 can be memorised (or not).

I also find that using the 7th of 9 steps, gives top of 7135 (NoPWM on the Opple flicker test), on my modified TS10 w sw45k.. the output for those LEDs is 90 lumens.. but the 7th of 9 steps consistently gives top of 7135 (w floor of 2 and ceiling at 120... technically level 121 of 151. I use 3x 1H to drop 30 points)

thanks for sharing an in depth exploration of Anduril UI, I appreciate the way your mind works ;-)
 
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vicv

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Congrats on your Lumen measuring capability, great to hear it is working well.

> As soon as I re-set the ceiling to my preferred 120, the memory reverts back to level 4, or 80 lumens.

confirmed, changing ceiling and using stepped modes, does not retain exact memorised output.. but if you switch to smooth ramp, the memorised output is still correct

Try using smooth ramp instead of stepped. I just did a test and the memorised level was retained after a ceiling change.

my guess would be that stepped modes get recalculated based on Floor to Ceiling range.. (and number of steps)

fwiw, I found that if I use 9 stepped modes (with no manual memory), with a floor of 2 and a ceiling of 120, that level 7 gives the top of the 7135, 120 lumens (my test light has the cool white LED), and level 7 can be memorised (or not).

I also find that using the 7th of 9 steps, gives top of 7135 (NoPWM on the Opple flicker test), on my modified TS10 w sw45k.. the output for those LEDs is 90 lumens.. but the 7th of 9 steps consistently gives top of 7135 (w floor of 2 and ceiling at 120... technically level 121 of 151. I use 3x 1H to drop 30 points)

thanks for sharing an in depth exploration of Anduril UI, I appreciate the way your mind works ;-)
Thanks. Lol. It not like I need to know where the 7135 ceiling is. It's just that it's there automatically on my ts21, so thought it would be neat to have it on the ts10. On the ts21, cutting power automatically sets the light to level 4. Which is top of 7135. When you go brighter, the switch led goes to high brightness to show you're running on the fet. I really like this feature. And it measures 130 lumens. Which is pretty good when there's low ambient light. And should run at least 12H.
I'm currently doing a runtime test of another light so I haven't gotten a chance to your way yet. I'll try 9 levels first. Even though I think that's a bit too many. We"ll see how I like it

Confirmed it does work in smooth ramp mode
 
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jon_slider

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I'll try 9 levels first. Even though I think that's a bit too many
no wrong choices.. enjoy whatever rocks your boat ;-)

I actually use 12 steps (homage Zebras hidden modes), HDS Tactical Rotary is also 12 modes..
 

jon_slider

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heads up, Wurkkos site now has the first batch of Aluminium TS10 V2 in stock.. (V2 = RGB Aux)

only Orange host color so far...
Screen Shot 2024-01-08 at 10.20.11 AM.png


fwiw, the Aluminium models have better heat dissipation than the Ti models.

This means the Aluminium models will sustain similar output as a High CRI HDS (200 lumens)...
 

vicv

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Don't be telling us this Jon. Wolf girl just posted this in the discord. I love orange lights and I need another TS 10 like another hole in the head.

That orange does look nice though…… and rgb
 

jon_slider

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the benefit of the RGB is that I can switch from dim red (my unlock setting) for nightstand use, to bright green (my lockout setting) for walking stealthily to the latrine.. lol

I dont actually lockout my TS10, I dont have any issues w false activation.. I just use lockout to toggle Aux to high brightness

otoh, RGB can not emulate the single color orange Aux, which are quite pleasant in their own right

the other feature of RGB is that it can display Voltage as a color... though I still prefer to just use the normal battery check command
 

vicv

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No
the benefit of the RGB is that I can switch from dim red (my unlock setting) for nightstand use, to bright green (my lockout setting) for walking stealthily to the latrine.. lol

I dont actually lockout my TS10, I dont have any issues w false activation.. I just use lockout to toggle Aux to high brightness

otoh, RGB can not emulate the single color orange Aux, which are quite pleasant in their own right

the other feature of RGB is that it can display Voltage as a color... though I still prefer to just use the normal battery check command
you misinterpreted my message. I'm having a hard time not hitting the buy now. The RGB was a good thing.
 
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