Ultrafire C2

SteveAdams · Jul 16, 2007

An Ultrafire C2 I had given to my dad stopped working at the weekend. He'd used it 3-4 times a week for about 2 months. I put a freshly charged 18650 in it and nothing happened. I then put 2 RCR123's in and it flickered and died. All these batteries were OK in a Lumapower M1.

Can anybody advise on how I can check which bit is not working? (emitter, driver, switch?). Then maybe I can fix it....

I don't seem to be having much luck with cheap lights!

glockboy · Jul 16, 2007

Put the 18650 in and use a paper clip to conect the battery to the body, if it work then your tail cap is loose.

SteveAdams · Jul 17, 2007

glockboy said:
Put the 18650 in and use a paper clip to conect the battery to the body, if it work then your tail cap is loose.

I tried that and nothing happened. I also put a meter across the battery and case and got about 3.7V. I checked the switch with the meter and it seemed to be OK. I put the switch on a Lumapower M1 and , surprisingly, it worked.

From this, I would assume it to be the LED or driver which failed but I have no idea of how to check them or even remove them. Sorry for being so ignorant but I don't want to cause more damage trying to fix it!

bspofford · Jul 17, 2007

I just got a new batch of HAIII C2 lights from Kai yesterday. They previously had a light gray finish that may have been Type II, but the new batch is darker and looks like real HAIII coating. The battery tube is larger, and my protected cells now fit, but the + end of the tube toward the bezel still doesn't have a spring for flat top batteries. I have many of these lights and have never had one fail, so your problem is still most likely a contact issue on the + terminal. Try either unprotected 18650 cells with a nipple on the + end, UltraFire protected cells with a short nipple, or magnets from Kai. Also, you may also want to try some Deoxit.

SteveAdams · Jul 17, 2007

bspofford said:
I just got a new batch of HAIII C2 lights from Kai yesterday. They previously had a light gray finish that may have been Type II, but the new batch is darker and looks like real HAIII coating. The battery tube is larger, and my protected cells now fit, but the + end of the tube toward the bezel still doesn't have a spring for flat top batteries. I have many of these lights and have never had one fail, so your problem is still most likely a contact issue on the + terminal. Try either unprotected 18650 cells with a nipple on the + end, UltraFire protected cells with a short nipple, or magnets from Kai. Also, you may also want to try some Deoxit.

I tried it with 2 RCR123's and it just flickered and went out. I'll try cleaning it and put some primary CR123's to see what happens

glockboy · Jul 17, 2007

Try open the head, take the reflector out, if you see the HS loose, tighten it.

SteveAdams · Jul 18, 2007

glockboy said:
Try open the head, take the reflector out, if you see the HS loose, tighten it.

I unscrewed the heatsink and screwed it back in. It still didn't work. I didn't try taking the LED and driver out - they seemed to be pretty well attached.

How would I be able to tell if a new driver would fix it?

StefanFS · Jul 18, 2007

SteveAdams said:
I unscrewed the heatsink and screwed it back in. It still didn't work. I didn't try taking the LED and driver out - they seemed to be pretty well attached.

How would I be able to tell if a new driver would fix it?

Put some wires to a primary CR123 with electrical tape. Touch the appropriate wire to each of + & - to the contact pads on the Cree star. If the led lights up it's the driver or contact problems. You need to remove the black plastic cover to reach the led. Make a small hole at the edge in it and lift it with a small screwdriver. I had similar problems, the Cree was defective, after a I installed a new Cree it worked. Check the links.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/161260
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/162262

sysadmn · Jul 18, 2007

When troubleshooting, I try to be orderly - start at one end and work to the other!

Off of the top of my head, here is a checklist.

Batteries are dead - they work in your Lumapower
- Connection between batteries and flash - you shorted that out
Switch is bad - you tested with ohm meter
+ Connection between batteries and flash - put flash together, remove head, measure voltage between "button" and body
Gremlins - repeat test 4 after shaking assembly; click switch while testing

At this point, you can assume that the body - batteries and tube assembly (tube, spring, switch) are ok.

Connection between head and body - this one is hard to test, save it for last If the body and head check out ok separately but it still doesn't work, suspect this.
Connection between head and driver - use ohm meter from spring to pcb or attach battery via alligator clips to spring and measure voltage at driver.
Connection between driver and star (or emitter, depending on what you can reach - measure voltages first, if that doesn't work, measure resistance.
If you test driver -> star, you'll need to test Star -> emitter.
Bad LED - measure voltage across emitter - if you get volts but not photons...

I'm sure others with chime in with steps I've missed. I just wanted to suggest a systematic approach.

Northernflame · Jul 18, 2007

Hi.

Also try to clean the contacts on the led head and the tail cap spring.

I've run across a few FL's who's + & - contact points oxidized rather easily.

Use a pencil eraser to rub the residue off the FLAT + pole end of the FL head. Just make certain that you don't get any metal dust in the threads.

richpalm · Jul 18, 2007

I just got one today-had the same problem. In the tailcap you'l see the screw ring that holds the clickie in place. Just stick something in the two holes to tighten 'er up. Fixed mine.

Rich

bspofford · Jul 31, 2007

I just got a C2 HAIII today from Kai, and it didn't turn on with various 18650's. I opened the head, and the emitter module was loose. Tightening it didn't help. I used a paperclip across the open tailcap, and the light came on. I removed the retaining ring and noted a new switch design with a metal plate on the side. I bent the plate out a little to improve contact with the aluminum wall of the tailcap, and now the light works fine.

richpalm · Jul 31, 2007

bspofford said:
I just got a C2 HAIII today from Kai, and it didn't turn on with various 18650's.quote]

How long did it take to get it from them? I ordered one quite awhile ago... waiting.

Rich

bspofford · Jul 31, 2007

richpalm said:
bspofford said:

I just got a C2 HAIII today from Kai, and it didn't turn on with various 18650's.quote]

How long did it take to get it from them? I ordered one quite awhile ago... waiting.

Rich

Click to expand...

Rich, I'm in Colorado, and it probably takes an average of three weeks.

Jefff · Jul 31, 2007

Hey is there another tailcap clicky that might fit on this light tube? Maybe like one for the 6P or the likes? like this one...http://www.actiongear.com/cgi-bin/tame.exe/agcatalog/level4c.tam?xax=5810&pagenumber%2Eptx=1&M5COPY%2Ectx=29931&M5%2Ectx=29931&M2%5FDESC%2Ectx=Flashlights%2C%20Headlamps%2C%20Lights&level3%2Ectx=level3c%2Etam&BC3%2Ectx=Flashlights%2C%20Emergency%20Lights%2C%20Lightsticks&BC4%2Ectx=Flashlights%2C%20Headlamps%2C%20Lights&backto=%2Fagcatalog%2Flevel3c%2Etam

Jay T · Jul 31, 2007

SteveAdams said:
I don't seem to be having much luck with cheap lights!

That's the great part they are so cheap you should order 2 or 3. So when one stops you still have a working light :twothumbs!!!!

Ultrafire C2

SteveAdams

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glockboy

Flashlight Enthusiast

SteveAdams

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bspofford

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SteveAdams

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glockboy

Flashlight Enthusiast

SteveAdams

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StefanFS

Flashlight Enthusiast

sysadmn

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Northernflame

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richpalm

Banned

bspofford

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richpalm

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bspofford

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Jefff

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Jay T

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