P2D R100, greenish on low?

Does the Fenix P2D R100 gets more green in tint when it is on the lowest setting? And then get progressively whiter as it runs on higher power?

Thanks,
Mo

Yes, it is green on low, and gets whiter on brighter settings.

I'll have to admit that the beam on my new P2D-REB100 does have a somewhat greenish-yellow cast on the low setting. The tint is noticeably whiter on the medium setting and better yet on the high setting.
It sort of reminds me of the 2700K 9-watt compact fluorescent lamps that are in the fixture in our bathroom. When you flick the light switch on it takes them a while to reach full brightness, and they have more of a yellowish hue until they warm up.
My Fenix L0D-CE uses a pulse-width modulation (PWM) circuit to achieve the dimming, but Fenix must be using a different type of circuit on this flashlight. Or maybe the PWM is so rapid that it can't be detected.
To be honest I do wish that it had a better tint on the lower settings, but that must just be the nature of the critter.

I have 2 and they are not greenish. Slightly pinkish, if anything. Yes, I compared them to my other Fenix lights, Surefire U2, etc. I was lucky and compared about 10 the day they were available and picked my favorite tints. But truth be told, they were all good and very consistant.

The L2D I have is green on low and then it just gets nice and white as you progress threw the different stages.

I have a L2D-CE and it's definately green-tinted on the lower than MAX settings, can't see the green (if it's there) on MAX. The whitest beem I've seen is on my LED Lenser Police Focus on Stock 1.25W Luxon - but then that's even brighter than my Fenix on MAX when focused.

What you are seeing is called tint shift. Some LED's have the tint shift(some are more noticeable than others) as you supply them less current. The LOD uses pwm to control brightness. The LxD, and PxD series of lights use current regulation for brightness control. This is why you won't see tint shift on a LOD(or any pwm light).

How does a pulse-width modulation (pwm) work?

PWM turns the light off and on very quickly to reduce the total amount of light coming out. Longer times off = less light.
Some people find the flickering on very low intensities bothering, so some manufacturers are increasing the frequency so it stays unnoticable.
LiteFlux for instance uses MegaHertz frequencies!
Greg

Thanks Greg, that explains the flickering I see on my LOD CE.

How come they need to use the PWM, why not leave the LED bulb on constant on?

Grock

Maybe it's just the color of the phosphor ?

Maybe they should shoot for a white phosphor instead of a greenish yellow phosphor ?

I will add another data point that indeed my P2D RB100 is greenish on its lowest setting but loses it as you progress through the higher levels.

That seems to be a quite normal phenomenon on all rebel based lights.

Initially I thought only me got this problem, but later it turned out to be everyone's problem, haha

FIFO said:

That seems to be a quite normal phenomenon on all rebel based lights.

Initially I thought only me got this problem, but later it turned out to be everyone's problem, haha

Click to expand...

Nah, my L2D100 has a slight rose tint, but it's nothing compared to the kind of blue tint you used to get on 5mm. You have to compare it to another light to see the tint.

My L1Tv2r80 seems to be mostly an unspectactular white. There may be some faint pale greenyellow dirt in there but needless to say, it's not enough to be an issue if there is.

I do have a Maglite Mag-LED that has a green tint, but again, it's nothing like the old blue or violet tints you used to see.

Then again, supposedly at one time green-white tint LEDs were considered to be superior for color rendering by some. Maybe you should be careful what you wish for.

I haven't noticed a green tint on my P2D-RB100 on any setting, but when I switched the head with my L1D body, I noticed a pretty bad tint. I suspect this is why the L1D was never offered with a single AA body.

Grock said:

*snip*
How come they need to use the PWM, why not leave the LED bulb on constant on?
Grock

Click to expand...

PWM is a way of reducing the light output. The other way is (basically) to use a resistor to reduce the power to the LED. This often changes the colour of the light outputted. Hence this thread!
Greg

May be it's just my eye; I cannot see any shift in mine. My first impression was pinkish tint, but I grew to like it very much. Cree looks rather blue now.

Edit: when I paid a closer attention, I do notice that it's greener on lower setting; I don't mind it at all tho.