C Mag - 2xC LION - hotwire possibilities?

Hi Everyone,

I've been away from CPF for a long time now. I see the "C" L-Ion batteries are still available. Any advances in hotwire mods that would allow me to throw together a 400+ lumen hotwire mod, using a Mag 2C as a host. Requirements are reasonable runtime and reasonably low rates of insta-flash.

Jon

StoneDog said:

Hi Everyone,

I've been away from CPF for a long time now. I see the "C" L-Ion batteries are still available. Any advances in hotwire mods that would allow me to throw together a 400+ lumen hotwire mod, using a Mag 2C as a host. Requirements are reasonable runtime and reasonably low rates of insta-flash.

Jon

Click to expand...

Are you talking about 400 bulb lumens or torch lumens?
IIRC, a Mag2C host with the extender ring will allow you to run 2 of AW's protected "C" li-ion cells. You could put in an ROP-Lo bulb and get what you're looking for, I think. Those more knowledgable about hotwires will hopefully chime in and confirm this. Of course, if you want even more light you can just toss in the ROP-Hi bulb for ~38 minutes runtime with around 1100-1200 bulb lumens. Of course, it's your decision whether or not to do the resistance fixes.

Pick up one of AW's Soft Start drivers, a couple of his C cells, your choice of reflector/glass, and your pick of WA1111 or Phillips 5761.

I have this setup running with the WA1111 and a MOP reflector. It's a pretty sweet little light.

The 5761 is BRIGHT, but it drives the batteries hard (over 5A).

This is a fantastic package but it's pricey. Just the switch and batteries are over $100.

If you want to go on the dime, you could do a ROP LE. Kaidomain has glass lenses and aluminum reflectors for cheap. For batteries you could do AW "C"'s (with an extender so they can fit), or 18650's with the tailcap modification.

There are a bunch of threads on both of these popular options.

Thanks guys - just saw AW's driver earlier today.

Does it automatically sense bulb voltage (and if so how?!?!) or does it have some sort of adjustment for 1111 vs 1185?

Jon

AW's "C" sized driver is basically just a soft-start switch, with PWM for a few level controls. So if it's ON, the bulb is hotwired to the batteries. There's no voltage detection.

So, if you use the switch in a 2 cell configuration, you would use WA1111 or 5671... if a 3 cell you use WA1185, etc...

There is discussion on a "D" sized driver he's working on with regulation and stuff, but that's not out yet.