Fenix P3D Problem (solved)

My new P3D Q5 was just fed its first cells, and its acting up strangely.

Or more precise: The turbo-mode doesnt seem to work: Instead, the light is flashing with maybe 2-3 times the rate of the Strobe mode.

This effect starts after sometimes at once, and sometimes after a few moments or a minute.

I seriously doubt it is the low-battery warning, as those cells are just bought (arg, i forgot to order them online, and had to pay 4€ a piece in the shop. but i couldnt wait trying the light out...).

Is there any other reason this could kick in? Bad contacts somewhere which cause a voltage drop or something?

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

Try cleaning the contacts and tightening the tailcap retaining ring.

If it still flashes and it's not the batteries, then ask for a replacement.

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

hmm, well, given that you indicated a problem with only the turbo mode, and not the other modes, the first choice for a root cause are contacts (head and base cap), then batteries, then the LED electronics.

Try thoroughly cleaning the threads - head and base. try again. If still faulty, then even though you just purchased the batteries, they may be "weak". If you have access to a voltmeter, a reading on Lithium cells less than ~3volts means that they are close to the end of their capacity. Lastly return the P3D for exchange as faulty.

fyi: the "turbo" mode on a P3D draws about ~0.6A. The "high" mode draws about ~0.25A. IOW, half an amp current draw is sufficient to cause problems with contacts.

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

Hm. I dont have a spare battery set here (i wont get robbed again by that damn store). A few rechargables and a charger are on their way, thought.


Originally, i did shut the light off because i feared the electronics could be damaged. But i played around, and all modes but Turbo work fine, without a hitch. There are also no typical contact problems (like flickering when switching the head).

I guess i have to consider the possibility that those expensive CR123 are duds. Well, they _are_ noname (because i checked 3 brick and mortar stores and they all wanted 10€ a piece for brand name 123As. Thats more then 50% of the lights cost for one...).

Btw: i was suprised to see that the light isnt _that_ bright compared to the l0p q4 with 10440.

In fact, the l0p at high does output noticibly more light than the p3d on high.

But going back to the l0p makes the gui really stand out as a good point of the p3d. I miss switching from low to turbo with the head, and on/off with the tailswitch.

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

Look, it's really not worth it to chance your expensive light with cheap cells. Maybe the cells you have can't support the current draw demanded by the turbo mode.

Cheap cells have a reputation for poor quality and poor performance. More importantly, cheap cells compromise safety for price. There are numerous threads around here in which people have had CR123A cells 'vent with flame' (ie explode). The chance of this happening seems to be increased when you buy Chinese cells, and use them in multi-cell high-current applications.

The best advice is to use only USA-made CR123A batteries. That means SF, streamlight, energizer, ray-o-vac, duracell and panasonic. CPF sponsors batterystation.com and lighthound.com have excellent prices on USA made CR123A. www.batterystation.com/cpf.htm has a CPF deal on USA made, battery station branded CR123A for $1.25 each.

Importantly, the old batterystation CR123As were made in China and my experience, corroborated by others, is that they were of poor quality. The new made in USA batch seems to be far better, as shown by testing and inital real-life use results.

Buying in bulk can bring down the price per unit considerably (taking into account shipping). If you're only looking for a few cells, I think that fenix-store.com have good quality Panasonic cells for USD $2.00 each including international shipping.

With regards to your issue, it sounds like you've cleaned the contacts? But there's no way to exclude the batteries as a source of trouble until you have changed batteries

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

I totally understand your point.
But honestly: Its my first first 123A light, and the package tracking tells me the protected, brand-name rechargeables are still a week away.

I just wanted to see the light in action, so i just bought _some_ cells. I didnt expect them to be that rotton, thought.

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

Well, an update:
Finally, my protected rechargeable cells finished their trip from hongkong after 3 weeks. And i got what i payed for

Nothing wrong with the cells _themselves_, electronically. But they are just too long for the p3d: the turbo mode cannot be activated (and thus also not checked for functionality...)

Are there protected cells that have the normal size, or do people usually use unprotected cells in flashlights like the p3d that depend on a fully tightened endcap?

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

I had a p3d for a short while when it started acting up. I took a pencil eraser and rubbed it on the contact circle inside the head and bingo no more problems. I just clean it every once in a while. Alcohol and a qtip or just a #2 pencil eraser work well.

Dont know about the rechargeables, but I would imagine you could use 2 rcr123's, no?

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

IMSabbel said:

.... Are there protected cells that have the normal size, or do people usually use unprotected cells in flashlights like the p3d that depend on a fully tightened endcap?

Click to expand...

Don't make a bad situation worse by using unprotected cells. I got my P3D Q5 just before Christmas. Never had a single problem with it. Currently on its 2nd set of Duracell CR123 cells. I only use primaries, and only Made in America Surefire or Duracell brands. Made in China CR123 cells sometimes have a nasty tendency of exploding inside flashlights.

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

AW RCR123A are perfect fit for my P3DQ5

Re: Fenix P3D Problem

fa__ said:

AW RCR123A are perfect fit for my P3DQ5

Click to expand...

For mine also.

Ok. The problem has been solved.
I couldnt get AW rechargeables, because PayPal decided it would be cool to lock my account during my order, but moldyoldy (who is awesome, btw) provided me with some other CR123 cells. With those, the light worked perfectly fine.

And yes, i also re-evaluate my oppinion: Turbo makes a difference, its quite noticable brighter than high.

What are the warranty ramifications of using sub-par batteries? Also, I've heard about "exploding" batteries. Does anyone have any photos of an "exploded" light and do such things pose a physical risk to those carrying such lights? What of the risk of fire?Has any light blown apart while being used or is it limited only to lights in storage?Thanks.

Confederate said:

What are the warranty ramifications of using sub-par batteries? Also, I've heard about "exploding" batteries. Does anyone have any photos of an "exploded" light and do such things pose a physical risk to those carrying such lights? What of the risk of fire?Has any light blown apart while being used or is it limited only to lights in storage?Thanks.

Click to expand...

Warranty issues = Usually none.

Exploding CR123 cells = A real physical risk if you're carrying the light. No need to worry about a quality, aluminum light turning into a bomb with flying shrapnel. But the force of the explosion has to go somewhere. A flying chunk of metal & rubber (tailcap) can pose a real risk. Also, there's a reason why dealers have to pay a HAZ-MAT fee when ordering large amounts of CR123 cells. Definitely avoid breathing in the fumes of a vented cell.

Risk of fire = That's real too. It has happened after the cells explode inside of a light. But CR123 cells don't catch fire out of the blue.

So far, no deaths from an exploded flashlight. But check out these links....


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/120888

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/122500

I've seen other threads as well.

Just make a ring out of thick gauge copper wire and put in into the tailcap as a spacer. That should take care of the too long batts. Thats what I do.

So... I don't see how the problem was solved? Batteries that weren't crap?