Fenix Threads Thread

The threads on my Fenix are grindy/gritty. I've tried lubricating/cleaning them. Any ideas to fix this?

I use white lithium grease on my P3D.

Could it be poor design, poor engineering or simply the employee having a bad day? I simply don't have this type of problem with the threads on any of my US made lights. Oh! before someone flames me I'm not starting a anti Fenix thread I'm simply trying to emphasize that threads are one area of engineering that demonstrates quality YMMV.

Doug

dougie said:

Could it be poor design, poor engineering or simply the employee having a bad day? I simply don't have this type of problem with the threads on any of my US made lights. Oh! before someone flames me I'm not starting a anti Fenix thread I'm simply trying to emphasize that threads are one area of engineering that demonstrates quality YMMV.

Doug

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The best threads I have encountered are on my Surefire, Inova, Peak, and Zebralight lights. Three of the four are American companies. Others are catching up, though.

I slather mine with grease and engage the threads several times, back and forth. Clean off dirty grease, repeat. Repeat as necessary. There's only so much you can do, IMO, and I feel it may have something to do with the alloy as much as the thread cutting.

WTF guys let's not go into "American" vs "Chinese" here.

My Fenix L2D is 100 times better than any American lights I've used, but that doesn't mean it's because it's made by an American or anyone else.

Let's stick to the topic and not get this locked.

My Fenix E01's threads were smooth as glass right out of the box.

that's because the threads are HA which makes them smooth. i wish it was the same on my L2d but they have to be conductive(i think). I'm still looking for something to lube it with though.

mine are fine.

I will say that the threads on my C2 have a very smooth buttery feel...

but so does my lf2x..

Crenshaw

smvtsailor said:

The threads on my Fenix are grindy/gritty. I've tried lubricating/cleaning them. Any ideas to fix this?

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Ok, first of all, sorry to hear that they are not right. I am sure this can be resolved somehow.

When you cleaned and lubricated the threads, what cleaning technique did you use? Also, what lubricant did you use? Nyogel is a good choice.

And how new is your light? Almost all fine-threaded lights have a working-in period, even $300 titanium custom lights!

dougie said:

I'm not starting a anti Fenix thread

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That 'disclaimer' is inadequate. When someone posts a disclaimer of that type, it all too often means precisely the opposite to what it says.

This is not the first time you have made borderline troll posts of this type. In this particular case it is not serious enough to merit further action, but you are advised that if this pattern is continued, your posting privileges will be suspended.

I suggest you read this thread very carefully.

Clean the threads vigorously with an alcohol swab, then try thick sewing thread dipped in alcohol and work it into and around the the threads.


As to where they were made, all threads are standardized and don't care what country they originated from.

I swear I posted in this thread more recently than this. Oh well. Any luck getting those threads silky-smooth yet? If not, please feel free to post again and we will try to sort you out.

If you purchased your light from fenixstore, the warranty has actually been improved. The warranty used to be a parts and labour warranty for the first year, then a labour-only warranty for a lifetime. Now fenixstore have upgraded this to lifetime parts and labour warranty due to the proven reliability record.

I use a tooth brush to clean threads. A used one of course!

Gado said:

I use a tooth brush to clean threads. A used one of course!

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I really don't want to take this thread off topic, but I just have to post a little side story here:

About 15 years ago my grandmother was living in the house with my family. We were in the toothbrush/toothpaste aisle looking for a brush for my grandmother to clean her jewelry with. Without thinking, I said fairly loudly:

"That's ok grandma, you don't have to buy a new toothbrush, you can use one of my old ones..."

It was too late, I had already said it without realizing what it sounds like out of context.

Well, there were probably 8 other people in the aisle who ALL heard what I had said, and every single one of them looked straight at us. I am sure most of them were thinking that we must also keep my grandmother locked up and abuse her or something, since we won't even give here a new toothbrush. We both scurried away. I'm just glad no one saw us scurry a few aisle down to the dog food aisle (again, not thinking.....)


Anyhow, back to your regularly scheduled flashlight maintenance.......

I use this for cleaning, it is really powerful aerosol cleaner. This may melt your O-rings so take them off first. Also brake or carb cleaner can be used, but imo they are bit overkill. This is not that powerful.


For lubing, I use marine grade teflon additive aerosol oil, same type as Finnish maglite importer uses as a standard service oil. Works great with O-rings too.

You can get these from your local auto parts shop. Price per volume should be allright. Dont use it in electrical connection surfaces eg. fenix head thread, that should be dry! Just keep it clean and it should be fine without lubrication

you crack me up Marduke

Crenshaw

txgp17 said:

I use white lithium grease on my P3D.

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Lithium grease degrades rubber o-rings. You should use silicon grease instead.

Gado said:

I use a tooth brush to clean threads. A used one of course!

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You can also use toothpaste to clean threads, there is a very mild abrasive in most toothpastes. This will act like a mild lapping compound, smoothing out any roughness in the thread. This would be a last resort action.

Crenshaw said:

mine are fine.

I will say that the threads on my C2 have a very smooth buttery feel...

but so does my lf2x..

Crenshaw

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When you make a comparison of something like "smoothness" it's bound to be quite subjective, however another thing that shouldn't be discounted is variation between units, samples or lots.