What is up with my Fenix Lights?

I have a Fenix P2D and P3D and love them....great bang for the buck! I noticed that when I store them for a period of time (like 2 months) the batteries drain out. I don't get it, I have even tried loosening the tail cap so that the light won't come on and I still get the same result. Can anyone help me out? I am using generic CR123 but I don't think that is the issue. Thanks for your help!

:mecry:

Batteries can always be a problem espcially when there not name brand. However I don't believe that is the problem. It sounds like your getting current drain somewhere. Measure the resistance on the tail cap with the switch on and the switch off. The switch should read open on the meter when it is in the off position.

Edit. Measure between the spring and the metal ring on the outside of the spring.

Bill

Oh, I forgot to mention, my buddy's Fenix is also doing the same thing.....we are using the same battereis. Here is a link to them:
http://www.botachtactical.com/nabccr123.html

I bought 50 of those batteries and only got half the run time of name brand batteries. I will have to retract my first statement about it not being the batteries. IT MAY IN FACT BE YOUR BATTERIES. I would still take an ohm meter and measure the tail caps thought.

Bill

Hitthespot said:

I bought 50 of those batteries and only got half the run time of name brand batteries. I will have to retract my first statement about it not being the batteries. IT MAY IN FACT BE YOUR BATTERIES. I would still take an ohm meter and measure the tail caps thought.

Bill

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Thanks for the heads up! I thought those batteries were to good to be true! What battereies do you use and where do you get them?

hotbossa said:

Thanks for the heads up! I thought those batteries were to good to be true! What battereies do you use and where do you get them?

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I personally use Streamlight batteries. Brightguy.com carries them in 12 packs at a pretty reasonalbe price. SureFire, Panasonic, Energizer, Duracel, are also pretty well documented to be of good quality.

The battery and electronics sub-forum would be a good place to ask questions and do searches for comparisons / runtime graphs of different batteries. There is a wealth of knowledge there.

Bill

Sounds like bad batteries to me. Just try a name brand cell in there and see what happens.

hotbossa said:

What battereies do you use and where do you get them?

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http://www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm

Niconical said:

http://www.batterystation.com/cr123a.htm

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...just dont by the batterystation-brand cells, i tossed a whole box (nearly 50) of them some time ago.

I bought these and have had good results. I bought the matched triplet, if I need only two I cut one out.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/tpen-tcr123a-.html

I have had poor experience with the $1 CR123s I have used.I still have quite a few of the Titanium brand but I end up using name brands in my better lights.The Titanium brand batteries will not register on my ZTS even though they are unused and will still power lights.I don't like the idea of using CR123s that I can't test.All other brands of CR123 that I have used will test fine.

Lately I have purchased Panasonic but Energizers and Duracells have worked well also.Battery Junction has good prices on most of the name brand CR123s and that is where I usually buy mine.I won't be purchasing any more Titanium or Tenergy though.The Tenergy CR123s test OK but don't last as long as the name brands.

BOTAC - anything that comes from there is a problem IMO. They have a big history of 'Jeers' and really don't care what kind of junk they sell. Try some good batteries and you'll be fine. The Fenix has AFAIK never been known to have this problem - it's a regular clicky that completely disconnects current from the PCB so I don't see how it could be the flashlight.

BBL said:

...just dont by the batterystation-brand cells, i tossed a whole box (nearly 50) of them some time ago.

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Their old Chinese manufactured cells did not hold up well over time, but for the past 8 months or so they have been sourcing from a USA manufacturer, and mine are holding 100% on a ZTS test after 6 months.

I kept my old BS cells, as they still have some life in them even though 2 YO cells test from 10-60% on a ZTS. Matching them in multi-cell use could be a problem for some.

Hitthespot said:

Batteries can always be a problem espcially when there not name brand. However I don't believe that is the problem. It sounds like your getting current drain somewhere. Measure the resistance on the tail cap with the switch on and the switch off. The switch should read open on the meter when it is in the off position.

Edit. Measure between the spring and the metal ring on the outside of the spring.

Bill

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The switch, regardless if it reads open circuit when off or not will be an open circuit when unscrewed into lockout position.

I had the same problem with my Titanium brand batteries. That's why I switched to either Duracell or Energizer for lights that is stored away. But for everyday use for EDC lights it's quite OK.

You're using those junk batteries in a P3D? In a two cell light you need to use good quality batteries and make sure they are voltage matched. If you put two of those junkers in a P3D and one is 3.0v and one is 2.5v you could have a pipe bomb on your hands.

You need to be very careful with 2 or more cell lights and this is why SF always tells its customers to only use SF brand batteries.

Sorry to be blunt, but we don't want any fellow CPF'ers going on us. Everyone needs to be aware of the danger of using lithium batteries.

LukeA said:

The switch, regardless if it reads open circuit when off or not will be an open circuit when unscrewed into lockout position.

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In his case I'm pretty sure it's batteries, however, Are you sure? I thought I read somewhere, that in some instances there was leakage through the threads?

Bill

BBL said:

...just dont by the batterystation-brand cells, i tossed a whole box (nearly 50) of them some time ago.

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The newest ones are made in the USA and are supposed to be quite good.

Supposed to be, or ok now and then it changes again sometime. Surefire, Duracell, Energizer, Rayovac, Streamlight batteries.

What does "read open on the meter" mean?
Set the meter to measure resistance (which level?), probes on the spring and the metal ring, and...