The SF bug has bitten... E1B 80 lms vs. E2DL 120 lms

Hi everybody - well, you guys certainly were correct - once the Surefire bug bites, it bites HARD.

I have really taking a liking to the E1B with a Z68 cap - what a GREAT looking light! But before I pull the trigger, I just wanted to ask:

1) How does the 120 lm on the E2DL compare to the 80 lm of the E1B? It it noticeable?

2) Are the 5 lm lows identical?

3) Are there any shortcoming of the Z68 tailcap? How will the UI be changed from the stock cap?

I guess I just want to make sure that, other than size difference, there is a big enough variation between these two lights to really warrant my purchase...?

THANKS!

I thought I had the brightest E1B on earth, until PM's came in from a number of other members saying that theirs was among the brightest one cell they had. Mine, using my integrating sphere, is brighter than the U2, 120P and Nautilus ... my scientific guess is a solid 100 L from the E1B.

Low is quite bright, as the TIR optic keeps the light in a focused circle.

AFAIK, any clickie or twistie will activate the two levels in the E1B.

My light testing:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=200334

bullfrog said:

Hi everybody - well, you guys certainly were correct - once the Surefire bug bites, it bites HARD.

After buying an L1 for my son I was so impressed that I bought one for myself and the E2DL - they are both excellent lights but I find myself wanting more! (even though these two light pretty much take care of any need I could ever have)

I have really taking a liking to the E1B with a Z68 cap - what a GREAT looking light! But before I pull the trigger, I just wanted to ask:

1) How does the 120 lm on the E2DL compare to the 80 lm of the E1B? It it noticeable?

2) Are the 5 lm lows identical?

3) Are there any shortcoming of the Z68 tailcap? How will the UI be changed from the stock cap?

I guess I just want to make sure that, other than size difference, there is a big enough variation between these two lights to really warrant my purchase...?

THANKS!

Click to expand...

AAhhh. Another case of SF disease.:hahahaon't worry, it's not that bad actually. Expensive, but not bad. You're not alone.

Anyway, as far as E1B w/ Z68, I say go for it. Lot's of good info here. To answer your questions:

1) the 120 lumen E2DL is noticeably brighter than the E1B, but that's because the E2DL is such a killer light, not because the E1B is a weakling.

2) The low modes should be the same.

3) If you like the looks of the Z68, I can't see any shortcomings myself. It is ever so slightly longer than the original cap, but only by a hair. Refer to the above link for specifics. Overall, I love that combo. I say buy it! Afterall, it's not my money.

The E1B has a tighter beam with less spill. Slightly less bright but you can't go wrong with either light.

not to mention that the e2dl can run on 2rcrs with a high which is over 200 lumen :naughty:

Thanks for the responses so far! H20rower - love that profile picture! Apologies but two more quick questions to throw out there:

1) Will a 3.0V Rechargeable CR123 work in the E1B?

2) I read a few times that the E2DL can run on two 3.0V Rechargeable CR123s - is this safe? Will it damage its circuitry over time?

3) DOES USING RCRs VOID THE SUREFIRE WARRANTY?

Free lumens would be stellar (but don't want to risk damaging the light...)

Aussie Cheese said:

not to mention that the e2dl can run on 2rcrs with a high which is over 200 lumen :naughty:

Click to expand...

You beat me to my question! Are the RCRs safe long term? Safest voltage?

it does seem strange that an increased voltage has a substantial effect on output. leaves me to wonder what kind of regulator they are using. it certainly isnt a "standard" buck regulator which would give identical output in both cases and certainly doesnt seem to affect the circuit at all. if it breaks down just send the head back to surefire for a rma(and dont tell them you used rcrs) i wouldnt send back the whole light if you like the serial number on your e2dl .. which i do cause you will not get the same parts back from them

i personally have neither any "3v" or "3v regulated" rechargeables. if i were to gamble in my e1b i would try the tenergy ones(3.2v regulated) if they are short enough to fit in the body.

in terms of general compatibility, most certainly not. you have to know what you are doing and if it wont go when you first turn it on. most people purchase li-ions, for their high drain capability, primarily to feed their incans and led light compatibility is secondary.

i personally dont have a problem handling 'dangerous' metals and such as i have spent most of my life in research labs with stuff more volatile than lithium.

bullfrog said:

You beat me to my question! Are the RCRs safe long term? Safest voltage?

Click to expand...

Aussie Cheese said:

it does seem strange that an increased voltage has a substantial effect on output. leaves me to wonder what kind of regulator they are using. it certainly isnt a "standard" buck regulator which would give identical output in both cases and certainly doesnt seem to affect the circuit at all. if it breaks down just send the head back to surefire for a rma(and dont tell them you used rcrs) i wouldnt send back the whole light if you like the serial number on your e2dl .. which i do cause you will not get the same parts back from them

i personally have neither any "3v" or "3v regulated" rechargeables. if i were to gamble in my e1b i would try the tenergy ones(3.2v regulated) if they are short enough to fit in the body.

Click to expand...

I see no reason for SF to not use a buck type regulator with the E2DL, as all of there other two cell LED lights using the Cree or Seoul, use that type of circuit. Two RCR123's should not increase current to the LED. Some people are reporting that their E2DL's are putting out 200 tested lumens with two CR123's. Can not remember who at this time.

The Cree L1, which uses a boost circuit, has been used by some with two RCR123's, which would cause some direct drive to the LED. However measured current at the tailcap with two RCR123's is about 1 amp, dropping quickly, and that is not unsafe for a Cree. Light might get warmer. Some have reported that the E1B, and E1L flicker when fed more than 3 or so volts. I would not send my SF back to the factory, under warranty, if I damaged my light by over driving it.

Bill

I ordered 2 E2DL's a few weeks ago, one for me and one for my gf, and I use AW RCR123's (3.7v's) in mine and she just uses primaries. On high, they're both identical, but my low is much brighter as to be expected. Haven't tested run time yet...

The difference between the E1B and E2DL is probably noticeable. I use an 3.7 RCR in my L1 cree and that pushes about the same as an E1B, and my E2DL is noticeably brighter than it, but not so much so. I don't think you can go wrong with either

Dinan said:

I ordered 2 E2DL's a few weeks ago, one for me and one for my gf, and I use AW RCR123's (3.7v's) in mine and she just uses primaries. On high, they're both identical, but my low is much brighter as to be expected. Haven't tested run time yet...

The difference between the E1B and E2DL is probably noticeable. I use an 3.7 RCR in my L1 cree and that pushes about the same as an E1B, and my E2DL is noticeably brighter than it, but not so much so. I don't think you can go wrong with either

Click to expand...

Can you provide a link for the RCRs you use for the E2DL and L1? I would LOVE free lumens in both these lights... THANKS!

That´s my doubt too... I can´t decide between the E2DL or the E1B.

I like the E1B due to it´s size, specially...

And I like the E2DL due to it´s better throw...

The rest are just the same.

I just can´t decide!!

(and I can´t "buy both")

In the finest CPF tradition: Buy both. If you then prefer one over the other, sell it and recoup the vast majority of your initial purchase.

I'm pretty sure an 80 vs. 120 lumen difference is not huge. Also keep in mind that I'm pretty sure SureFire's lumens ratings are an average, and probably a bit conservative. I'd take into consideration the following, weighted upon your specific requirement:

- Runtime
- Size
- Beam quality
- Specific use
- Multi level

I've owned a E1B and was amazed at the output for such a small light. The optic does a fine job of balancing throw and spill. I don't own an E2DL but will very soon.

I don't believe you can go wrong with either light. Want an EDC light? E1B is great. Want longer runtimes and a "strike" bezel/tailcap? E2DL. Both also open up the possibilities of play "SureFire Lego," enabling you to pick and choose SureFire heads, Aleph heads, TnC products, etc.

Both are multilevel lights with a usable low. Both are wonderful lights. Quite a quandry, eh?:devil:

Does a runtime graph of the E2DL exist anywhere?

There is a review somewhere, but it's only on the single level version (120lm).

Run time on primaries was 95 minutes until it started dropping in output, 1.9 hours to 50%, I believe.

I'll post the link, if I can find it, Found it, here you go:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=196892&highlight=e2dl

Regards
Dave

bullfrog said:

H20rower - love that profile picture!

Click to expand...

Thanks bullfrog. That's my favorite light right now.

tazambo said:

I'll post the link, if I can find it, Found it, here you go:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=196892&highlight=e2dl

Regards
Dave

Click to expand...

Thank you!

I have the 2 stage version but I didn't really care about the low output runtime.

Where's to find the E2DL dual stage version?

Edit: just found it

If you buy one new, it will have a low and a high. The high only model came out first and there are not very many of them.