SL PP 4AA Lux - tail switch failed

I grabbed my Streamlight PP 4AA Lux from the car tonight, and it didn't work ?
When I got home, tested the batteries - ok
then tried the LED head with the 4 AA's outside of the shell - runs ok -

SO... it must be the tail switch that has failed.

I sent an email to SL - and also located a local "repair" place from the SL website. Not sure of the logistics to get "warranty" service, but we'll see on Monday.

I've got the exact same problem with my 4AA Lux. I know the module and the light and everything is still fine, as the tail switch failure is not constant. I click it on, and it will flash once in awhile while I'm knocking on the body.

To be fair, I've had his light for quite some time.. over three years easy..

I'm sure SL will make it right.

If you want to check the switch, you just unscrew the rubber cap which also holds the circular threaded switch nut. You have to jam your fingertips and finger nails around the rubber cap as low as you can go and get a firm grip. Then unscrew, and the switch drops out of the inside of the tube. While the switch doesn't look repairable, you may have battery goo on the spring contacts or some such.

SL can likely just send you new switch if you want to do it yourself.

Re: Streamlight PP 4AA Lux - tail switch failed

BTW - sent an email to the Streamlight repair/customer service contact,
along with the "suggested" local warranty/repair/service/associate contact listed for my area - Chicago -

neither has replied -

just to update the log....
Still have yet to receive an email reply from SL -
And as far as the "authorized facility" that is about 5 miles from my house....

" Hello,
You can send your light directly to Streamlight for warranty repair at:

Streamlight
30 Easgleville Road
Eagleville, PA 19403

Be sure to include a contact name and phone number,
return address and the serial number to your flashlight.

Shelly L. Henry
Ray O'Herron Co., Inc.
Returns Department "

I'd been having an intermittent switch problem with one of my PP 4AA lux lights. Two day ago I discovered the other one doesn't work either! Borrowed back one from my brother in law to check. That one works fine with each of the three heads - must be the switches.
Where is the serial number? I see a five digit # on the light assembly, is that it?

Just as the final part to the story...
----
Unfortunately,
my impression of Streamlight & it's dealer/repair network has
been reduced...

The local facility in Illinois - near me -
is mostly concerned with selling to police....
and doesn't really offer repairs for anything else...

As per the Streamlight website "authorized service centers"

Ray O'Herron
17W 689A Roosevelt Rd <------ wrong address
Oakbrook Terrace, IL 60181 <----- wrong address
ILLINOIS
630-629-2677 -----> 629-COPS
800-782-8674
FAX: 630-629-2682

I just called them - Tiffany answered -
then transferred me to the "Gun Counter" -

I told that person I had a "Steamlight ProPoly 4AA Luxeon"
with a tailswitch problem.

HE NEVER HEARD OF THAT FLASHLIGHT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not only is their address info in the SL/ASC web list incorrect,
they are only focused on the "law enforcement" facet of the business
and mostly Stingers..... so everyone else is out of luck.

SO - WHY have these folks listed as part of your ASC organization ???
Not a great impression for local service for anyone without a Stinger.

I guess I will have to send my PP 4AA back to SL directly.

Since I know it is the tailswitch,
do I send just the empty body/shell back,
or do they want the entire flashlight....
lens, LED module, body/shell ???

What a waste of my time and effort...

Thanks to the tip from louie on how to get the switch out, and my love of fixing things myself, I disassembled both my non-working lights last night and fixed them. The problem was corrosion on the rivets holding the battery contact springs. I will try to take some pictures and give detailed instructions when I work on a third light tonight [it works, but was purchased at the same time and could probably use the cleaning before I give it back to my brother-in-law].

That said, ps56k, I've heard only good things about Streamlight customer service - probably from people who sent things back to Streamlight directly.

things must be busy at SL - as have not heard back from them for 2 days...

Question - since we know it's the tailswitch,
what do I send back to the SL facility ??

- just the empty shell with the tailswitch,
(seems logical),
or the entire flashlight (seems a waste)
including the LED module + lens ?

I don't know the answers to your ?s above, I was wondering what they would want me to send also.
I took pictures so I could do a step-by-step instruction of how I revived two of my ProPolys, but I can't get my camera/PC to talk to each other now. I re-installed the software, but it's still not working - 90 min of frustration arrrgh.

The switch boot had torn off mine. They didn't answer my first email this week. I resent it and they will be sending out a switch replacement. Excellent customer service.

ps56k said:

things must be busy at SL - as have not heard back from them for 2 days...

Question - since we know it's the tailswitch,
what do I send back to the SL facility ??

- just the empty shell with the tailswitch,
(seems logical),
or the entire flashlight (seems a waste)
including the LED module + lens ?

Click to expand...

In my experience don't even bother with any of the "authorized service center" and such, they all suck, always deal directly with manufacturer if possible.

Here goes: my first attempt at something like this...

I had three ProPoly 4AAs, two weren't working. After taking them apart I found the cause. Battery leakage had corroded the two rivets that hold the springs in the bottom of the light and are an integral part of the switching mechanism. The ProPolys are such good battery vampires I failed to realize the obvious: batteries that are being vampired tend to bleed.

Streamlight ProPoly 4AA Switch Cleaning - for lights that work intermitently or stop working and for users that want to fix it themselves and avoid dealing w customer service. Warning - attempting to fix this yourself may cause loss of warranty support.

Tools needed:
Long nose pliers - to turn the plastic nut under the rubber boot if you can't do this using your fingers.
Flat thin object for carefully lifting the plastic retainers - the SAK file was perfect.
Knife blade to begin the switch case separation.
Awl to scrape corrosion off of switch contact rivets.


1. Try to turn the plastic nut under the rubber boot by squeezing tightly as low on the boot as your fingers allow. Turn slowly, you are not fighting the nut thread friction as much as you are the rubber boot friction. You only need about two turns. If you can't get it use pliers...
http://img386.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slppstart1262ze7.jpg
The boot is fairly durable, but obviously needs to be treated with some consideration.


2. Once the switch unit is out use a flat thin object to carefully lift the retainer and then a thin blade to start to pry open the switch. Get a one mm gap or so, remove the flat thin object from the retainer and do the same procedure on the other side. Once both sides have a small gap, continue to pry apart the two sides, working both sides evenly. Open it while it is sideways for best part placement retention, and in a place where small parts won't get lost.

http://img168.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slppswtchparts1266dj8.jpg
This is what is inside. The metal washer makes contact with both rivets to close the switch. It seems to be made of material that doesn't corrode easily. None of the three I saw needed cleaning. This was my third I took apart and the only one I broke the retaining clip on, which hasn't turned out to be a problem because of the way the switch housing is engineered.


3. The two rivets on the first two lights were very dark from corrosion and needed extensive scraping to clean them. Some deoxit applied after cleaning would be a wise move. After testing the first switch I had to go back and clean the edge of the rivets to establish electrical contact, even though it doesn't look like it would matter.
After reassembly I tested the switch function with a continuity tester.

4. Drop the switch module it into the body. The switch is slightly offset so it must be put in correctly to line up with the hole. Place the batteries in and screw the bezel/light engine on to make the switch stick out firmly. This will aid you when screwing the boot/plastic nut on.

tnx for the effort and taking the great photos -

I'll have to try later and get my switch out of the handle...
The batteries didn't leak, so not sure how the rivets get corroded,
but the PP was always laying on the floor of my jeep...

I see that old Boy Scout folding knife is still being used
Our son just finished his Eagle - just barely got done under the age limit...

Some parts may have corroded from gases released by the batteries, or maybe condensation.

Congradulate your son for me on his Eagle Scout achievement.

thanks for the great instructions and photos -

A couple of tiny details that I found just tinkering with mine... for ref -

#1 - the rubber boot is actually a circular nut - I was expecting, searching, grabbing for a hex, with a boot covering.

#2 - your rivets look fine compared to mine.
Mine were totally "corroded" on the outside and inside.
The metal seems very soft, golden, but if brass - then why the corrosion ?
This is the mystery part - what is happening to the rivets ?

#3 - only need to scrape the areas on the rivets near the spring hole, as there is where to rotating washer makes contact.

Lastly - didn't have the patience or dexterity to pry up the tab & try to separate the two pieces - they were being very stubborn.... so I just pryed up and tried to make the tabs stay - if not, just broke them off

Did all the tiny gentle scraping, a little WD40 - and put it all back together. Tested the switch for continuity with a VOM and all works....
Lastly - just super glued the tabs back into place - drying now -

We'll see if it all comes together... and works in the flashlight