More custom light questions

kuksul08

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My previous thread was a little confusing and I didn't know where I was going originally. I have a couple straightforward questions:

1. Are SSC P4-U or Cree XR-E Q5 led's going to serve me better for making a bike light, or are they pretty much equal? I want a nice white light (not blue), and they can't get too hot. I will be running them at 700mA

2. Does anyone have input on the Ledil SSC P4 square optics? DataSheet

3. I have read up on the AMC7135 available from DX. Basically the plan is to get the 1050mA version, and desolder one of the chips. (If I want 1050mA in later versions I would like the option that's why I'd get those). Can someone verify that this does in fact work? Also I plan on doing something like this Poorman Mutli-Lux setup method except using 6 AA NiMh's as the power source, then one P4 before the driver, and one P4 controlled by the driver. That means around 4 volts for the driver and constant 700mA in the circuit.

4. Lastly (for now), regarding this setup, how can I incorporate a 5k 1W potentiometer that I have to allow full dimming ability? Can I just put it in series with the circuit or do I need to make a control deal (which I know nothing about)


Thanks to anyone who can help.
 

kuksul08

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Also in case you're interested, this is basically what I am trying to emulate more or less:

Amoeba_matte_silver_quarter.jpg



And this is what I have so far. Still need to buy electronics, lenses, fittings, and some plexiglass/lexan
IMG_1700Medium.jpg
 
Last edited:

LukeA

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near Pittsburgh
They're the same for this purpose. Either can be bought by tint.

Desoldering a chip from a 1050mA board will work, but buying 700mA output boards will work as well.

You would need a control circuit to make use of that pot. You'd burn it up by putting it in series.
 

kuksul08

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Thanks Luke.

Is there an easy method to creating a control circuit for these boards or would I need to design it?


I just bought the SSC P4's (3 weeks eta from DX). Right now I'm actually considering a 1A 3023 buckpuck simply due to the greater voltage input range, and dimming. Thanks again
 

Fallingwater

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Crees tend to be more throwy than SSCs; I'd say that for your application you need throw, so I think you'd have done better by buying Crees. Not that SSCs are a bad choice for bike lighting - just less good than Crees.

DX also has 4AMC drivers; since they don't cost much more than 3AMC ones you could get those and unsolder two chips.
You could then wire the leftover chips in their own circuits, and attach them to the existing ones with two switches. Both switches off and the LEDs are driven at 700mAh; throw one switch and they get 1050mAh; throw the other and they get 1400 (at which point you'd need either a chunky heatsink or a fan blowing on it).
Note that I've never done this multi-AMC circuit, so it's purely theoretical, but I've no reason to believe it shouldn't be possible.

Edit: you could do the same to the third AMC as well, in order to gain a fourth lower mode where the SSCs would only be fed 350 mA.
 

kuksul08

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Crees tend to be more throwy than SSCs; I'd say that for your application you need throw, so I think you'd have done better by buying Crees. Not that SSCs are a bad choice for bike lighting - just less good than Crees.

DX also has 4AMC drivers; since they don't cost much more than 3AMC ones you could get those and unsolder two chips.
You could then wire the leftover chips in their own circuits, and attach them to the existing ones with two switches. Both switches off and the LEDs are driven at 700mAh; throw one switch and they get 1050mAh; throw the other and they get 1400 (at which point you'd need either a chunky heatsink or a fan blowing on it).
Note that I've never done this multi-AMC circuit, so it's purely theoretical, but I've no reason to believe it shouldn't be possible.

Edit: you could do the same to the third AMC as well, in order to gain a fourth lower mode where the SSCs would only be fed 350 mA.

Thanks for the input. I think they Cree's are more throwy because the angle is 90 degrees as opposed to 152 (not sure exactly) on the SSC's. With the proper optic I hopefully will get similar results
 
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