Novatac modded with Tri-Flupic+P7+PD

I did this mod because I had a broken novatac module and wanted to
do something different.

Parts list.
P7 DSWOI
KHATOD 27.66mm
Tri-flupic
Novatac body and the heatsink
UCL
Piston sleeve from EX10

First, I gutted the original heatsink and installed LED and Tri-flupic.
All 3 individual outputs going to the emitter. Then the reflector was
cut to fit the body, and diffused with a single coat of lacquer. Throw in
the piston from EX10 and install the rubber gasket in the tail cap.

As a result, I have a very bright light with a flexibility of Flupic U.I. with
twisty/momentary switch.
P7 is direct driven at the highest level. But it should be limited to short
bursts because of the extreme current draw and an obvious heat issue.
I am fully aware of the risk of pushing the battery this much. I never allow
the light to get hot that I feel uncomfortable to touch it.
Please note that the lowest level in this set up is noticeably brighter than
Novatac's low low.

The light was originally modded without the piston (simple twisty).
It takes 18650 in 17670 tube or 16340 in an original body. I can go back to
the 18650 set up easily when a longer runtime is needed.

I may add a second o-ring on the piston if it leaks under the pressure test
which I plan to do. For now, I call it splashproof.

It is little easier to activate the piston switch than EX10. There is no spring
in the heatsink(like EX10). So the tension of the switch is provided by the
spring in the piston sleeve and the friction between the piston tail and the
rubber gasket. Having the piston enables a momentary function.
It still tailstands ok.

I experimented with a few different reflectors but I am happy with the
diffused Khatod from Photofanatic. It puts out a beam with a slight
dark spot which is not detectable in the regular use.






The beamshots are comparisaon between the following
Novatac 120P w/IMR18650 @4.1V (in 17670 extension tube)
jojobos modded Novatac w/IMR16340 @3.7V
*It is not a fair comparison but you get the idea.

A+ for creativity on that light. Nice work

Thanks!

That's a very nice mod. Low output for everyday plus 900 lumens for burst, sweet.:twothumbs

Got beamshots? What did the Khatod look like before you stippled it? Did you see this LED Zeppelin post? He indicated the 27.66 Khatods had both the P7 donut plus a cross. He was able to largely eliminate it by moving the reflector away from the LED slightly. Got any extras?

I actually sanded the legs on the reflector. So it is now directly sitting on the black plastic part of the emitter. By doing that, I may have altered the intended position of the reflector in relation to the LED height.

Before it got stippled, it was a bit brighter(to my eyes) but projects more artifacts in the beam. I could see the cross+donut before but a coat of lacquer helped smoothing it out.

Here is the beamshots.

The beamshots look good. Very nice pocket flamethrower.

But I am confused. The pdf on the Khatod 28A (27.66mm diameter) shows the two centering feet on the reflector are 12.2 mm apart. Since the P7 body is only 12 mm in diameter, how does sanding the feet off make a difference? What am I missing?

Very cool! Out of curiosity, was anything wrong with the Novatac electronics prior to the mod?

EDIT: Never mind... I read the post three times before I posted the question and only did my eyes fall upon the answer at the BEGINNING of the OP AFTER I posted... and it's not even that late!

Very very nice work!

Did not know that the piston fits the Novatac...:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

I sanded the bottom of the centering feet not the sides. I can be wrong but I think the bottom of the feet is supposed to be touching the surface(surrounding area) of the LED is mounted on. Instead the reflector is now sits on top of the plastic part of the led.

Yes, I am a newbie who made a newbie mistake. I tried to measure a current at the led and shorted out the driver.

BTW, I tested out the seal by turning on/off for 50+ times in a foot of water. Although I was skeptical, it kept everything inside dry.


Thank you all for your feedbacks!

Khatod's pdf on the KCLP28A says the little feet are 2.3 mm high. SSC's pdf on the P7 says the distance from the back of the slug to the front of the black casing is also the same exact 2.3 mm high. So the good news is if you hadn't sanded the feet down, it would have made no difference.