Ultrafire C1 ungrades?

I was oping somebody around here would know... Is there any way to upgrade the clicky on my Ultrafire C1 so that it protrudes further out from the tailcap (making it easier to access)? Also, would any surefire bezels fit? I know my G2 tailcap doesn't fit properly, otherwise I'd just get a SF cap...

Pelican M6 has same threads as C1 on tailcap. The tailcap is for sale at DX separately and the cap is advertised to fit SF 6P. Makes you think 6P tailcap would fit C1. But if G2 has same threads as 6P, it is obvious it won't fit.

The SF G2 and UF C1 tailcaps will physically interchange, but I just remember the fit not feeling right (like one was loose or something).

If you're talking about sku14024, it appears to be the exact same as the t/c that came with the UFC1. I'm looking for one that has a more pronounced clicky so that its easier to access (not concerned about tailstanding).

I have an Ultrafire C1 (Q5 version) as well, and I have thought of replacing the clickie with KD "forward clickie". Don't know if it will stick out more (forward clickies tend to stick out in my experience).

The C1 tailcap is quite easy to disassemble, so it is easy to experiment with. Maybe placing an o-ring or something between the clickie and the rubber to make it stick out more?

The C1 tailcap and available remote tape switch do not fit my 6P. Neither does the 6p tailcap fit the C1.

I've measured out the tailcap/body tube interface dimensions this morning. I'll try to scan/photo it and post tonight.

Well, here are my...uh...technical drawings





Does that make sense to everybody? The top left image is the body tube where it interfaces with the tailcap. The pictures work great on my comp, but let me know if you have trouble reading them :thumbsup:

Use an appropriately sized 3M rubber footing with adhesive from hardware stores. When stuck on the tailcap rubber it protrudes further out from the tailcap (making it easier to access). It kooks like a 1/4 inch thick coin made out of rubber and used to replace the rubber feet of computers, electronic equipment, etc. It also prevents finger nail damage by lady users to the tailcap rubber because the rubber footing protects it. Good luck!

The Surefire 6P/G2 tailcaps are shorter than my C1 tailcap. It leaves a gap between the C1 body and the 6P/G2 switch, even though my friends' 6P and G2 switches work in my C1.

I took out my C1 switch and put a Police 6P clone's switch in it to have momentary ON and twist for continuous ON, exactly like the 6P/G2 tailcaps, without buying the expensive 6P or G2 tailcap. Now my C1 can be switched ON with the syringe grip and by the thumb, just like a Surefire C2. :thumbsup:

FLT MEDIC said:

The Surefire 6P/G2 tailcaps are shorter than my C1 tailcap. It leaves a gap between the C1 body and the 6P/G2 switch, even though my friends' 6P and G2 switches work in my C1.

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I noticed the tailcap being a bit longer than its rivals (Pelican) as well. Even though the tailcap won't go as deep as it should in M6, it still works. I guess the anodize in the C1 threads aren't very effective and allow current to pass through. For some odd reason the M6 tailcap won't work in C1. I hate the momentary on/twist for continuous tailcap btw, and i'm going to replace my M6 tailcap with the C1 cap...

carrier82 said:

I noticed the tailcap being a bit longer than its rivals (Pelican) as well. Even though the tailcap won't go as deep as it should in M6, it still works. I guess the anodize in the C1 threads aren't very effective and allow current to pass through. For some odd reason the M6 tailcap won't work in C1. I hate the momentary on/twist for continuous tailcap btw, and i'm going to replace my M6 tailcap with the C1 cap...

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Thanks for the info that the M6 tailcap won't work in the C1.

carrier82 said:

I hate the momentary on/twist for continuous tailcap btw, and i'm going to replace my M6 tailcap with the C1 cap...

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Did so and the first day at work: I noticed something hot at my waist. It was the pelican, switched on and hot as hell. Didn't use the original holster as it didn't fit there very well, but a DX one which allowed the switch to turn on. Went back to original holster. But learned that safety lock-out is a good feature.