Fenix L1D/T: Rebel vs Q2 vs Q5?

Well I want an L1D/T (possibly an LD10, but think it looks ugly), and have seen an L1D with rebel 80 for about £7 cheaper than the cree Q5 version. Question is: is the rebel 80 a decent LED, and is the tint noticeably different to the Q5?

I'd prefer the best colour rendition, as it will be used outside, and I'm not a fan of very white/blue tints. Also, is the rebel reliable enough, as I've searched here and some early ones seemed to have problems?

I might consider an L1T (not decided on best UI yet), and that has a Q2 I believe. How does that compare with the above?

Roughly speaking, the Rebel RB80 is roughly equivalent to the Cree Q2 and the Rebel RB100 is roughly equivalent to the Cree Q5. In both cases, the Crees are just slightly brighter, but not significantly.

Before you decide on an emitter, you need to decide on a user interface (UI).

If you want the L1T's UI (my personal preference), your choices are Q2 or RB80, with the RB80's get increasingly difficult to find. RB80's have a warmer tint with more throw and less flood, but they appear greenish to some peoples eyes. The Q2 is a cool light that has more flood. I have both of these and it's really a toss-up. The RB80 is slightly better for outdoors and the Q2 slightly better for indoors.

If you want the L1D's UI, your choices are (off the top of my head), Cree P4 or Q5 or RB80 or RB100. I don't think a lot of the RB80 L1Ds were made, but I could be wrong. Between the Rebel lights, the RB100 may be significantly better. Some RB100 emitters have a very good warm white beam color, but some are a little off. With the Crees, the Q5 is going to be brighter, but even the P4 is 135 lumens (approx. as bright as the NiteCore EX10, though some people will argue this vehemently). The Q5 version will probably have a better reflector, though. Again, I think you will find the Rebels is slightly better for outdoors and the Crees slightly better for indoors.

Based on your critieria, I would recommend that you go with the RB80 in either an L1D or L1T.

Thanks for that detailed summary

I think the R80 will be my preferred emitter, but I just have to choose a UI. It will be my first 'real' light (have maglites etc), so not sure how I'll get on with the different UIs. The nagging thing about the L1T V2 is the relatively high 'low' setting.

I often do photography at night, so don't want to be blinded. I guess a red filter or diffuser would help.

CuNim said:

Thanks for that detailed summary

I think the R80 will be my preferred emitter, but I just have to choose a UI. It will be my first 'real' light (have maglites etc), so not sure how I'll get on with the different UIs. The nagging thing about the L1T V2 is the relatively high 'low' setting.

I often do photography at night, so don't want to be blinded. I guess a red filter or diffuser would help.

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The L1T V2 with a rebel 80 is the light I keep in my jacket: great light, simple UI, great beam and a nice warm tint. As you notice the low setting is a much more a "medium" setting but it's ok for me. The Fenix red filter fits perfectly and can decrease sufficiently the output. Whatever, every light you mention is OK
Regards,

CuNim said:

Thanks for that detailed summary

I think the R80 will be my preferred emitter, but I just have to choose a UI. It will be my first 'real' light (have maglites etc), so not sure how I'll get on with the different UIs. The nagging thing about the L1T V2 is the relatively high 'low' setting.

I often do photography at night, so don't want to be blinded. I guess a red filter or diffuser would help.

Click to expand...

Yeah the L1T-V2 will definitely blind you with night adapted vision. Its low still well within the ~15 Lumen ballpark. Its a moderately focused beam when used close proximity, so that doesn't help either. Fenix doesn't really make a low-LOW output light.

kramer5150 said:

Fenix doesn't really make a low-LOW output light.

Click to expand...

No, you're right. It's a compromise really, as I do like the idea of 'lego', effectively having two lights for the price of 1.5, when a 2AA body is bought with it etc.

I'd be tempted to try a Nitcore D10 or NDI, but I think, for a first decent light, a Fenix would be a better bet, given the accessories available etc.

I've had a Fenix L1Tv2.0 rebel 80 for a year now. I have loved it since I got it.

However, I just got a Dereelight C2H with a Cree Q3 with 5A tint and love the tint of the Cree 5A so much better. Side by side the Cree makes my Rebel look very blue. The Rebel definetely has a better beam pattern, very smooth.

Fenix doesn't have any of the Cree 5A tints available, so I'd say go for the Rebel and get the smoother beam. Also, the forward clicky on the L1T (check to see if it has it, it should) is nice to have. No mode switching on the tailswitch making momentary use very easy.

CuNim said:

No, you're right. It's a compromise really, as I do like the idea of 'lego', effectively having two lights for the price of 1.5, when a 2AA body is bought with it etc.

I'd be tempted to try a Nitcore D10 or NDI, but I think, for a first decent light, a Fenix would be a better bet, given the accessories available etc.

Click to expand...

Or get an extra P2D body tailcap and forward clicky... and create a P2T!

I did the P2T lego and I love the light. I usually carry the EX10 because it has a lower low, but I still prefer the tactile feel, momentary function, and simplicity of the P2T.

I had an L1D, L2D, and P2D, but the levels are really too close together to be of much distinct use. Levels should be seperated by at least a multiple of five, IMO. Levels staged closer together (like the L1D, L2D, and P2D) are redundant.

I'll probably get the L1D R80. It's the cheapest (money is a bit tight, being a student!), probably won't be available shortly, has a nice low low (9 lum), even lower when I stick a red filter on it, and I can get an L2T/LD20 etc at a later date if I want extra output and runtime.

I've seen some say the tint is too 'green' for their liking, but I've got to buy something - nothing's perfect