Soldering

I'm new here and don't really know where to post questions like this but....I'm having trouble soldering to this http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=5595 does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this thing? It seems that the solder just won't stick to the center post and the post is soldered to the chip so when the post gets hot enough it comes off. Do I have to use an epoxy for this?

I think the boys over in Customs Builders and Modders can help you.

What are you using? (60/40 tin/lead / Silver solder?)

Are you using flux? (even the really cheap plumber's stuff works OK)

herbicide said:

What are you using? (60/40 tin/lead / Silver solder?)

Are you using flux? (even the really cheap plumber's stuff works OK)

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Just cheap tin/lead with standard flux. I think I'm going to order some of this stuff though. http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/epelconsil83.html

clint357 said:

Just cheap tin/lead with standard flux. I think I'm going to order some of this stuff though. http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/epelconsil83.html

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Actual 63/37 solder would be better IMO. Try to rough up the contacts abit, then try it again.

Electrically conductive adhesives have some problems vs traditional solder:

- moisture absorption after humidity (and associated contact corrosion)
- aging
- interfacial cracking due to thermal stress
- and epoxy degradation after storage at elevated temperatures

Basically, you often end up with a high resistance joint that is also weak.

It would be better to learn to solder competently.

What is your procedure you are using, I assume to solder wires to the KD driver board? Have you cleaned the contacts and stripped wire ends, then tinned the contacts and wires? Is your soldering iron tip clean? What kind of wire are you using? Teflon-insulated, stranded wire is probably best. The Teflon jacket is tough and doesn't melt or shrink back when exposed to the heat of the soldering iron. In comparison, standard PVC-jacketed wire requires a very quick hand.

clint357 said:

I'm having trouble soldering to this http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=5595... It seems that the solder just won't stick to the center post and the post is soldered to the chip so when the post gets hot enough it comes off.

Click to expand...

I don't have first hand experience with this part, but it sounds like you want to solder a wire from the positive end of your battery pack to this driver instead of letting the button on top of the first cell contact this post on the driver. If that is the case, do you really need the post? Can you just unsolder the post and solder your wire in its place?

Hope that helps,
Steve

Sounds like you need to clean the post better, maybe try some scotchbrite then your flux. See if that helps.

I found it very easy to solder to that post. First I put a little flux on it, then tinned it. Next, tin your wire. Place the freshly tinned wire on the post and hit again with the iron, it should pool all together easily. I use a cheap 20W radioshack iron and some 60/40 small electronic solder they sell.

Good luck with that driver, mine is junk, it shuts down on me after 10 min. continuous run on high powered with 2 Li-Ion on a copper heatsink to the two diodes.

I second the good luck. Mine was also junk.

I find soldering to be similar to painting. You gotta rough up the surface to give it something to bond to. Heck, I have the same board and i used a pocket knife to scratch it or sand paper.

Then I use rosin core solder (no idea percents or anything) and I have had no problems with it.

herbicide said:

What are you using? (60/40 tin/lead / Silver solder?)

Are you using flux? (even the really cheap plumber's stuff works OK)

Click to expand...

You should never use acid fluxes in electronic device soldering and repair, as it will cause corrosion and even can short-circuit device where gaps between tracks are small.

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From here Reliable soldering with fluxes - Scientific, embedded, biomedical, electronics contents.