XP-G R3 in my A20

old4570 · Oct 2, 2009

Its just a emitter swap , but much nicer beam , and a nice boost to output whilst maintaining similar current draw ...

Originally Q5 .. and drawing over 1A with a Trustfire Black Red CR123A it was capable of around 200Lumen ..

I dropped in a XP-G R3
And now the throw is about the same but with much more spill/flood and higher output and a much cleaner beam . [ Not ringy ]

Hi - 1.45A
Med - 0.53A
Lo - 0.19A

Still using the original driver , and what a nice little cree ...

I know , what's the output ?, it seems to hold about 280Lumen on Hi

... Its no SSC P7 .. But then 1.4A is manageable for the CR123A's
Beamshot tonight ..

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3106348&postcount=26

Check these out for now = Beamshots

The R3 seems to be a warm tint , maybe a little too warm

Sgt. LED · Oct 3, 2009

First XP-G pic I've seen! Thanks for the post.

I'm glad these work well for simple emitter swaps. I must order some!

Essexman · Oct 3, 2009

old4570 said:
And now the throw is about the same but with much more spill/flood and higher output and a much cleaner beam . [ Not ringy ]

Sounds like it's worth while just for the smooth beam, thanks for the pics.

JamisonM · Oct 3, 2009

old4570, how did you solder the LED? Looking at the datasheet, cree recommends soldering on the bottom of the emitter.

old4570 · Oct 3, 2009

JamisonM said:
old4570, how did you solder the LED? Looking at the datasheet, cree recommends soldering on the bottom of the emitter.

Mine are on 10mm round base .. So the normal way ...

The XP-G is way to small for me to solder if it was not on a base/star .

Here is a picture of the XP-G R5 and a P60 pill with a R5 in it ...

EngrPaul · Oct 3, 2009

Looks like those 10mm PCB solder locations are at a bad place for working with XR-E reflectors. :sick2:

old4570 · Oct 3, 2009

EngrPaul said:
Looks like those 10mm PCB solder locations are at a bad place for working with XR-E reflectors. :sick2:

YES !!!!!!!!!!!

Im ordering another XP-E pill ... and putting the R5 in it ..

JamisonM · Oct 4, 2009

old4570 said:
Mine are on 10mm round base .. So the normal way ...
The XP-G is way to small for me to solder if it was not on a base/star .

Here is a picture of the XP-G R5 and a P60 pill with a R5 in it ...

I wonder if the base/star can be modified to fit inside the head of my L2D-CE. I'd love to breath some new life into it see how it's being upstaged by all these newfangled Q5 and R2 lights. I think a little cutting and sanding and it could. 18mm is diameter of the cavity that it would fit in. I'd wager on the height of that same cavity being 5mm or more.

Nake · Oct 4, 2009

What's the thickness of that 10mm base?

how2 · Oct 4, 2009

old4570 said:
Its just a emitter swap , but much nicer beam , and a nice boost to output whilst maintaining similar current draw ...

Originally Q5 .. and drawing over 1A with a Trustfire Black Red CR123A it was capable of around 200Lumen ..

I dropped in a XP-G R3
And now the throw is about the same but with much more spill/flood and higher output and a much cleaner beam . [ Not ringy ]

Hi - 1.45A
Med - 0.53A
Lo - 0.19A

Still using the original driver , and what a nice little cree ...

I know , what's the output ?, it seems to hold about 280Lumen on Hi
... Its no SSC P7 .. But then 1.4A is manageable for the CR123A's
Beamshot tonight ..

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3106348&postcount=26

Check these out for now = Beamshots

The R3 seems to be a warm tint , maybe a little too warm

whats the run time with the red and black trustfire? are they better than the grey ones?

old4570 · Oct 4, 2009

Black Red Trustfire has the best current output in a CR123A next to a IMR or Primary Cell ...

Capacity is in the same ball park as most decent RCR123A's ..

But Im just impressed with the current delivery ...
Only problem is the Trustfires are a little on the long side , so may not fit some flashlights , they fit the A20 OK , so there mainly used in the A20 .

Run time : @ 1.4A on Hi not very long , my guess would be usable light for around 30 minutes .. after 30 minutes ?
On medium , maybe 1 hour
and on low , maybe 3 Hours and its pumping good usable light at this level , [ 40 Lumen ]
In fact efficiency seems best at Low and High , for some reason medium is not that great ...

old4570 · Oct 4, 2009

Nake said:
What's the thickness of that 10mm base?

2mm Thick !

darkmilk · Oct 7, 2009

old4570 said:
2mm Thick !

However the actual LED base is far thinner, so the chip ends up at roughly the same level above the heatsink surface of the pill

kosPap · Nov 6, 2009

well i did this mod myself yesterday...

First of all the my A20 reflector is SMO, and it is almsot the same with the ones the Ultrafire 602C/D series is using. it is abit small in diameter than it should and had to fix that with duct tape...

Regarding focusing I used shims....One was an white isolator sticker that KD sells on the reflector, one more on the LED pill, and I also made a spacer from a blister package...

While beam hotspot did not change to smaller, a second smaller hotspot was formed..this is the beam I like and have tuned my D26 modules too..though it is not one of the stronger in hotspot lux.

Now I used Cutter mounted XPG on 10mm PCBs and taht makes centering the LED a bit fuzzy...

My method was to jam the pill in the proper opening of thise rulers that you use to draw circles (plastic sheet with various holes drilled)..in order to find the center the rulers has notches at 13-3-6-9 oclock...Some nylon thread across oposate notches and presto! a good indication of the center....

My mod draws about 1.2A and I get 380 lux in my box when the 1A driven Q5s give out about 500.....

wonderfull powerhouse....scares me to think what will I get with an optic....

old4570 · Nov 6, 2009

:wave: / A20 = :candle:

XP-G R3 in my A20

old4570

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Sgt. LED

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Essexman

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JamisonM

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old4570

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